| [ Total Views: 2741 | Total Replies: 32 | Thread Id: 46387 ] |
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 2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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 posted on November 27th, 2005 at 10:22 PM |
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2332 Turbo 1966 rebuild nearly finished... again!
Well after what I think has been at least 4-5 weeks of re-assembly i've got my car drivable again.
The shell was re-sprayed again to fix some of the flaws in the previous paint job that was done about 1-1.5 yrs ago. Most of the car was re-sprayed
as I understand it...
As for the latest upgrades....
1. Removed the 12x12" oil cooler and installed 2 x 12x6" HKS alloy oil coolers with ducted 7" fans.
2. Traction brace, made from a Nissan S13 rear strut brace and 2 x Nissan S13 TORQUE bars (D1 suspension components cheap off ebay). I love
mentioning this cause I know how much it pisses off Nissan owners that I have D1 suspension parts on my VW.
3. High temp header wrap... The cheap stuff I got from a truck parts place had partially melted to solid glass. Hmm its a little warm there...
4. New intake system. Tired of having leaking gaskets I decided to make a 100% bolt together flanged intake system. There is only 3 hose joins now.
Two on the intercooler and one in the middle behind the fan shroud that links left to right. Part of this meant making new carbon fiber heat shielding
to cover the turbo and stop the engine sucking air from under the car.
5. Fuel system is now 100% 3/8" stainless braided speedflow using -6 fittings. Flows enough fuel for a safe 800hp... overkill anyone! I've still
got to update my pump to a bosch 600hp unit, and the billet aeromotive fuel pressure reg got lost in freight but thats coming too eventually...
6. SOUNDPROOFING! I've lined the inside of the car with 1/2" thick sound proofing and have some of the carpet kit installed.
I took some pictures this afternoon after washing the car at the top of some local hill where the land prices start above the $million mark. If
anyone would have been home I'm sure the cops would have been called when I stopped in front of their house and started taking photo's. :P
So here they are... they are all high res pics. I'm going to try and get the car up on a hoist soon so I can photograph the oil cooler, traction bar
system and under side of the chassis. Its a very tight fit, but works a treat and is a heap better and cheaper than importing one from CSP in
germany.
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1010.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1011.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1012.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1013.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1014.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1015.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1016.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1017.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1018.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1019.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1020.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1021.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1022.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1023.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1024.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1025.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1026.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1027.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1028.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1029.jpg
http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/2332/IMG_1030.jpg
As for the tune i'm still running 5lb boost while running the engine in and i'm starting to get used to the power its making. My 1641 turbo made
power from 3500-7000, and this 2332 turbo makes power from 1000 RPM to 5000 (so far) so it seems.
I'm still planning on running 7lb on for a mild street tune. I've decided to run the boost control directly from the engine management so I can
pre-set the boost from 7lb-12lb at any RPM point just by arming a boost control output. This should help reduce drive line breakages and provide
better launch controlability too. Without it, it would hit 12lb boost by 2600 RPM and i'd be sideways and lock to lock while trying to drive a
straight line.
Enjoy all, I can tell you that I sure am!
[ Edited on 27-11-2005 by iswinkels ]
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jvl054
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 11:03 AM |
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Very nice!!!!!:thumbJVLRacing
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Craig Paton
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 11:54 AM |
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If I get up your way sometime in the future, I'll have to book a ride!
Never been in a turbo Volksie! Especially in something as Awesome as this!
Looks Great!
[ Edited on 28-11-2005 by Craig Paton ]
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Gracey
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 01:17 PM |
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Awesome, looks great!
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Turbo54
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 05:46 PM |
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Fantastic Ian, lots of work and time and finally you might be happy until the twins come!
Good for you, looking forward to seeing some underneath shots.
Turbo54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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reub
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 08:51 PM |
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[size=6]SWEET DUDE!!![/size]
looks real nice. You're hard work and dedication is astounding!
A huge thumbs up :thumb
Reub
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 09:31 PM |
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Awesome stuff Ian - looking absolutely fantastic!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 28th, 2005 at 11:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Turbo54
Fantastic Ian, lots of work and time and finally you might be happy until the twins come!
Good for you, looking forward to seeing some underneath shots.
Turbo54
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Not so sure about the twins anymore. Yes i've gotten one gt17 and it will fit on the drivers side so twin gt17's is possible. But I've noticed
that garrett have released a gt2832, 370hp turbo that uses a 0.6 compressor housing so it wouldn't run out of top end quite as quickly as my 320hp
gt28.
Also, the GT28-320 might still be close to enough. i'll have to see how it goes when the boost is wound up a bit more. As it drives, I suspect the
rev shift point will be about 5000 or 5200 rpm at the most. There's no sense in reving it anymore because it has so much bottom end torque and its
hitting full boost so early.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on November 29th, 2005 at 05:53 PM |
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| Quote: | I'm still planning
on running 7lb on for a mild street tune. I've decided to run the boost control directly from the engine management so I can pre-set the boost from
7lb-12lb at any RPM point just by arming a boost control output. This should help reduce drive line breakages and provide better launch controlability
too. Without it, it would hit 12lb boost by 2600 RPM and i'd be sideways and lock to lock while trying to drive a straight line.
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What's wrong with you Ian? of course you need to be going sideways at 2600rpm whilest trying to drive in a straight line. Young people these days!
But seriously, the car looks awesome. great to see it finished and all together. Also looking forward to what it does down the strip. 
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on November 29th, 2005 at 07:48 PM |
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great stuff......you might want to look at a qucksteer coupling for your steering.....imagine one full turn from lock to lock, a good way to catch
that tail!. they have been used before and i know where to get you one if ya want.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 1st, 2005 at 11:05 AM |
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Na, not a fan of the quick steer kit. It makes the slightest wheel movement mean your wondering all over the road when your at speed. Especially above
140km/h or so, not that ive ever done that before....
Hey dumone, why the Hellbug engineering logo as your icon... What ever happened to Jeff and Shimmo?
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on December 3rd, 2005 at 07:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by iswinkels
Hey dumone, why the Hellbug engineering logo as your icon... What ever happened to Jeff and Shimmo?
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They're both alive and well, i spend a couple of days out at Jeffs every week, lots of goodies there still!!!! and Shimos still doing a bit, he has
just rebuilt a box for Jeff
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no slow 63
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| posted on December 3rd, 2005 at 10:12 AM |
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Very well done! I like your work.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on January 14th, 2006 at 09:41 PM |
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A brief history... I have of about 4 months ago installed a 2332 turbo/intercooled engine into my street car. The engine goes great but suffers from
one thing. That was when the car was stationary, the hot air being expelled from the porsche style air cooling system was being picked up and
recirculated thru the oil coolers by their thermo fans. When the car is in motion it sits happily at 83-90 degrees on a hot day. This tells me my
coolers are of an adequite size, its just they can't get enough cool air to circulate when the car is stationaty to maintain a constant air temp.
The car has twin 12x6" alloy coolers with shrouded in 7" fans pulling the air thru them. They were mounted under the car on a 45 degree angle
following the floor line under the back seat. I had to install two coolers because my traction brace gets in the way of installing just a 12x12"
single cooler.
My car uses 3 electric pumps, and 3 thermo fans to provide cooling for the water/air intercooler, turbo bearing housing and of course the oil. Yes I
circulate oil thru the two coolers with an electric pump (like a v8 supercar does with diff and tranny fluids etc). The engine also has a 32mm pump
full flow oil system with an Avaid external oil pressure regulator and return line system to keep oil pressure under control. All electric pumps and
fans are controlled by the ecu also, but they rarely tun off during driving unless its a cold and/or raining day which is obviouslly improving the
cooling capability of the system. On/Off triggers are configured in the ecu based on temperature information received from sensors in the engine.
So i'm thinking about my stationary heat build problem recently when tuning a mates Nissan S13 I noticed that the fan cuts in and out as is needed.
This too is controlled by the engine management. When the car is driving, the fan is never on, as the flow thru air is more than sufficent to provide
cooling. As simple as this sounds, I doubt that many of us had thought to postion their coolers in such a place that the fan's on them don't have to
run, except for those of us with sand rails or course!
So this got me to thinking... If I could place my oil coolers well enough so that they get a huge volume of cool air passing over them I could likely
turn off the fans too, and just run the oil circulation pump to keep things cool. This would put less load on my electrical system too, and as the
coolers would be better placed I would kill 2 birds with one stone and solve my hot air circulation issue at the same time.
So this isn't a new idea by any means, I saw it first in turbomania and they called it porsche careera style oil coolers (mounted up front under the
front guards. My problem was that I wanted something solid to mount my two fancy HKS oil coolers on, plus still have the fans on them so they'd keep
things cool when I was stationary.
What I came up with is a cradle that bolts on to the front sway bar mounts and the front bumper, and provides solid mounting for the oil coolers. It
would also make a great mount from a front spoiler and allow me to duct air straight to the coolers. The front brace is 4mm steel flat bar so its
pretty strong and will also serve to provice a little protection to the front valance from speed bumps etc, though I avoid those most of teh time. The
whole thing turned out way better than I was expecting.
Here's some pictures...
Unfortunatly the 8 meters of hose I bought turned out to not be enough to finish the job, plus I need one more 180 degree -10 speedflo fitting so its
not going to be finished till next week.
I'll take some more pics and keep you all posted as to how it performs. With any luck I'd like to have the car drive with no fans running, plus have
the oil pump cycle on and off between 80-85 degrees. We'll see soon.
Cheers,
[ Edited on 14-1-2006 by iswinkels ]
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on January 14th, 2006 at 10:36 PM |
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Hi
Like what your doing. I don’t think there is any better place to have an oil cooler, at the front in nice fresh air.
If you were ever brave enough to drive in the rain they would get a nice water spray.
Steve
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on January 14th, 2006 at 10:42 PM |
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Yep and the fans would never run, and the oil pump will cycle on and off like a thermostat! Like modern technology nearly...
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on January 16th, 2006 at 02:15 PM |
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Wow, you don't do things by halves Ian...:duh
Looks really interesting. Kind of reminds me of the stuff I've read about Moby Dick's (935 porsche turbo) engine. Only I guess you're not aiming
for 1000+hp and a welded diff.
I spose your gunna put some fully sic mesh across the oil coolers to protect them from sticks and that?
Just a thought, and not meaning to stir, but with all this trouble cooling it, and the coolers mounted up the front like they are, wouldn't some sort
of water cooling have done the trick in the first place?
Anyway, love the setup, it's more and more german look every time I see it 
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on January 16th, 2006 at 02:24 PM |
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Only after I assembled the engine did thread start to appear on shoptalkforums.com that began to discuss encasing cylinder heads in water cooling
jackets. This is fairly common practice for the autocraft heads, and someone has done it with comp eliminators like I have too.
There are also some aircraft engine manufacturers that are using a vw style casting but water cooled the heads. The are the ideal thing for a forced
induction vw for sure.
In the end though, my cooling issue was caused by the coolers re-circulating hot air that had been exhausted from the engine's porsche 911 cooling
system. It would only get hot when idling and stationary. I could have ducted fresh air to them and left them where they were if i didn't also have a
3 bar traction brace under the back of the car also.
As you can imagine it was quite cramped, and was basically impossible to work on without disassembling the car. Now with the coolers up front its at
least 1 step back towards being practical...
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jvl054
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| posted on January 16th, 2006 at 03:09 PM |
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Yep that will work:thumb you could of also dunn a prefab floor placing of the oil cooler and ran the air over the top aswell.By doing this you can
trap cold air into a box section witch has to force cold air around the cooler.Thats my set up! but yours is effective.good job.JVLRacing
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
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| posted on January 16th, 2006 at 04:08 PM |
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So you've got FMOC's too?... Note my ricer style lingo... Front Mounted Oil Coolers...  I am just too cool for rice?
Seriously tho, do you have any pics of your oil cooler setup JVL054?
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jvl054
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| posted on January 16th, 2006 at 10:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by iswinkels
So you've got FMOC's too?... Note my ricer style lingo... Front Mounted Oil Coolers... I am just too cool for rice?
Seriously tho, do you have any pics of your oil cooler setup JVL054?
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Sorry ian not sure what FMOCs stand full.I dont have any pics.If you have a camera phone i send some to you.u2n me your number go
from there.JVLRacing
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on January 16th, 2006 at 11:29 PM |
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Surely you've seen it... its cool as for the rice guys to turn everything into an acronym. Its spawned entire product lines for stickers that
probably make as much for the part companies as does the sales of their parts!
Apexi, 5ZIGEN, AVCR, eBoost, HKS, OSGiken, mugen, trust, bla bla bla... There's a whole community of honda owners out there that use these stickers
to enhance the performance of their cars...
FMIC is short for front mounted intercooler... ie what wrx owners put in the front fiberglass replacement bars so they can go faster because the top
mounted intercoolers are crap, not to mention being in the wrong location... I guess they forgot that heat rises...
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jvl054
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| posted on January 17th, 2006 at 08:45 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by iswinkels
Surely you've seen it... its cool as for the rice guys to turn everything into an acronym. Its spawned entire product lines for stickers that
probably make as much for the part companies as does the sales of their parts!
Apexi, 5ZIGEN, AVCR, eBoost, HKS, OSGiken, mugen, trust, bla bla bla... There's a whole community of honda owners out there that use these stickers
to enhance the performance of their cars...
FMIC is short for front mounted intercooler... ie what wrx owners put in the front fiberglass replacement bars so they can go faster because the top
mounted intercoolers are crap, not to mention being in the wrong location... I guess they forgot that heat rises...
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Ok FMIC not FOMCs:PI dont know if you buy Zoom mag at all but 2 year ago i had frontcover and there was a photo of the way my oil
cooler was done.Ask Reubs he might have the mag of it.JVLRacing
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71superbug
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on January 18th, 2006 at 12:39 AM |
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which issue was it in? wouldnt mind backordering a copy of that
Anthony
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jvl054
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| posted on January 18th, 2006 at 07:32 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 71superbug
which issue was it in? wouldnt mind backordering a copy of that
Anthony
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Hi Anthony,No 72 the car has change alot since.It runs a fullcarbon floor etc.JVLRacing
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71superbug
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| posted on January 18th, 2006 at 06:34 PM |
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was it on the cover wen it was green? or orange?
Anthony
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jvl054
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| posted on January 18th, 2006 at 06:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 71superbug
was it on the cover wen it was green? or orange?
Anthony
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Green&yellow.JVLRacing
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56astro
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| posted on September 1st, 2006 at 02:12 PM |
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What's the latest, haven't heard how the beast is going!
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa |
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malcolm
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| posted on September 1st, 2006 at 03:08 PM |
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great work on the car,have you thought about going to solid lines for the oil coolers now the set up is working.
are you happy with the pwr water/air intercooler and the electric pumps used ,could you use one to scavenge oil from the turbo if youhad the turbo
mounted low.
[ Edited on 1-9-2006 by malcolm ]
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on September 1st, 2006 at 03:39 PM |
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Hi Everyone,
The cars scary fun to drive and now its run in i've started to rev it a little more and also added a little more ignition while on boost.
The cooling system is going to have some refining done to it soon as although it works the distances involved with pumping the oil means the temps
fluctuate a fair amount.
So the immediate plans are first to do another engine rebuild to change the oil pump to a 38mm revmaster aviation pump which has a built in relief
valve on the cover and to change a few other things. I've ordered a set of CB performances's tool steel light weight gudgen pins and a few other
bits too.
The two front oil coolers are going to be converted to coolant, and the coolant will be pumped thru a C&R radiators ex-nascar oil to water heat
exchanger. This will make oil temps more constant and allow me to simplify the coolant system a little. 3 radiators and electric 2 pumps instead of 5
radiators and 3 pumps like it currently has.
The turbo system is being upgraded too. It will either end up as a twin GT1752 system or twin GT22VNT turbo's with the turbo's mounted in the
parcel shelf area, and a new rear bolt in firewall section will be made also. I am planning to start these upgrades over the next couple of weeks.
The PWR intercooler is great. The only problem is getting enough airflow to the radiator to cool down the coolant. I will probably end up front
mounting a radiator in front of the front beam down the track to take advantage of that airflow under the car to help lower air intake temps. With
the current placement of the radiator under the left rear guard air temps top out at about 45 degrees on the hottest of days, so its pretty decent for
where its located.
I'll be sure to start a new thread when I start working on the twin turbo setup and the new cooling setup too.
Cheers,
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