| [ Total Views: 802 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 47355 ] |
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 vickie
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| posted on December 28th, 2005 at 06:01 PM |
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sandblasting, beadblasting need advice
Need advice
should i sandblast or beadblast my beetle body and floorplan?
any info about either?
also what price should I be looking for the blasting and priming?
Any recommened blasters in Brisvegas or gold coast?
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 vw54
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| posted on December 28th, 2005 at 06:52 PM |
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before you do either blast strip the guards and boot. bonnet doors and rubbers carpets etc etc so you have good acces to the rusted areas
I would only blast the rusted section ,,, use a screw driver first n havea poke around t osee if yoy find any weal spots then have these blasted
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vickie
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| posted on December 28th, 2005 at 07:17 PM |
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Thanks for the advice, my bug is very naked and stripped of all material, mud and glue and all components have been removed.
she's as naked as the day she was born!!!
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VWMA Editor
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| posted on December 28th, 2005 at 08:51 PM |
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'Red' from Metal Prep at Slacks Creek in Logan City. Great reputation among the Hot Rod scene, and he did a beautiful job on my 63. Knows what he is
doing, no warping of panels, and no bullsh*t. He might take a little longer than some places, but it's worth the wait.
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on December 29th, 2005 at 07:33 AM |
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I think blasting is awesome - it saves so much time and gets a much cleaner finish in all the tight nooks and crannies than trying to do it by hand.
The place that did my car warped the doors though, so having someone reputable as mentioned above will be very important.
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 Yogie
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| posted on December 29th, 2005 at 09:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWMA Editor
'Red' from Metal Prep at Slacks Creek in Logan City. Great reputation among the Hot Rod scene, and he did a beautiful job on my 63. Knows what he is
doing, no warping of panels, and no bullsh*t. He might take a little longer than some places, but it's worth the wait.
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I would recommend Red as well. He has done two of our cars and the finish has been great. Makes it real easy for the panelbeaters later and worth
it. I think it cost about $800 for the whole car plus lots of other things ( I had the seat frames and wheels and other bits and pieces done as
well).
Cheers.
Yogie
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 29th, 2005 at 09:47 PM |
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on the line of this topic, i don't mean to jack a thread, but will have ot face the same rust treatment in the near future. When checking for other
bits of rust by a screw driver, what do u do? poke everything? How hard without dinting or stuffing anything? Dont' use the point metal end but the
back handle?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Dasdubber
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| posted on December 30th, 2005 at 12:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by mynameischris88
on the line of this topic, i don't mean to jack a thread, but will have ot face the same rust treatment in the near future. When checking for other
bits of rust by a screw driver, what do u do? poke everything? How hard without dinting or stuffing anything? Dont' use the point metal end but the
back handle?
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If you are going to strip the car back eventually, don't poke it, use an orbital sander with coarse pad, or angle grinder with wire brush wheel and
remove all the paint etc right around the lower edge of the car (or at least in the areas prone to rust) - this way you have no fear of denting it
whilst trying to poke with a screwdriver. Once you sand the paint off, if it is clean metal, great - etch prime and leave it for now. If not, well fix
it properly, rust treat it, then prime it. Screwdrivers will miss a lot of semi pitted areas - it would not be my preferred method of rust locating.
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