| [ Total Views: 566 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 48863 ] |
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 adnesiac
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 12:46 PM |
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distributer removal question - 73 bus
hi guys
due to a spade of bad runs with mechanics, i have decided to do a few things myself...on the learing curve ive found the vw bus engine a bitch to work
on (compared to a bug), if anyone could please help me on the following that would be great
firstly i am trying to remove my distributer to replace the points, i have followed my idiots guide and service manuals that say to only remove the
nut to the engine, not the clamp nut.....i have done this yet the distributer wont move??
any advice on this would be appreciated as the points are pretty much impossible for me to do without removing the distributer.
also being the first time ive changes plugs ona bus, i droped the friggen plug whislt trying to get it out (back right cylinder whislt looking at
engine), so its now sitting in under the metal sheathing on the heads....i pressume i need a magnet to get this guy out? or does the metal sheath
actual only cover the top and i could push the plug over and it will drop out the bottom of the engine?
cheers
adam
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 12:51 PM |
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The distributor should come out once the nut holding the clamp to the case is removed. It makes sense to remove it this way if you want to maintain
the timing position. Will the complete distributor turn now? They have a rubber O ring that can hold it in a bit.
The other option is to remove the points with the distributor in the motor.
The plug you have dropped will need to be removed with a magnet or tongs of some kind.
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adnesiac
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 01:08 PM |
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cool thanks peter
so i guess ill have to wait until next weekend and look for a magnet during the week, i need to magnetise my spark plug socket too.....i tried pointy
nose pliers but the hole in the casing is too small. feel like a dentist with the mirror and all 
what do you mean by will the complete distributer turn now?? i havent removed it yet but i want to do it this way so if i ever need to replace it down
the line, i know how its done....plus yeh to keep the timing position.....its a bit of a shit having to wait a week to change plugs and points, but
its a good learning experience and build up a decent tool kit on the way!
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76camper
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 01:23 PM |
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As helbus said the distributors have a rubber O ring (oil seal) Once you remove the 13mm nut near the crankcase vent then just give it a bit of a
wiggle while pulling it up and it will pop out! Its that simple, when u reinstall it just put the shaft in the hole and push down lightly and spin the
rotor till you feel it click in. The type 4's arent that hard to work on once you get to know them... keep at it. Hope this helps
cheers
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adnesiac
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 01:35 PM |
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thanks 76, it all helps!!
does that mean that i have to move the rotor to get the dirstubuter out??
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Chewy
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 01:53 PM |
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No, just wiggle it by the body and pull up, if that doesnt work, loosen the clamp and try.
put a bit of grease on the shaft/O ring next when you re-install it.
Cheers
.
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76camper
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 04:31 PM |
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no need to take off rotor, just take cap off and leave it in the car so u dont forget which wires go where.
cheers
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 05:06 PM |
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Hi
I prefer to remove the 13mm nut and remove the clamp as well, that way you dont bugger the O ring, the timming will still be right within a few
degrees.
Steve
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kombibob
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| posted on February 12th, 2006 at 05:24 PM |
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???? there is no reason to remove the dissy to replace the points.
1961 swb buggy
1960 karmann ghia
1963 Single Cab: "El Concreto"
1963 bent 23 window " Frieda Samba "
1963 Eriba Faun camper " Cara Van daCamp"
2012 Skoda Octavia scout
Get down low and go,go,go
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type3lover
A.k.a.: The Smashed Repairer
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in the garage...
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| posted on February 14th, 2006 at 08:43 PM |
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It's easier to change / set the points in a kombi with the dizzy out I reckon. Only takes a minute to remove it so why not?
It may be corroded in place and therefore stuck in position in the crankcase. I had this problem in a Volvo once. Took lots of wd40 and persuasion to
loosen the dizzy!
If you can't turn the dizzy body with the clamp loosened then this could be the prob.
Cheers!
Toby
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vwking
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 12:32 AM |
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the best way i have found to remove spark plugs is to loosen them with a socket then slide a peice of garden hose over the end of the plug then just
screw them out put them back in the same way:thumb
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geodon
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 01:37 PM |
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Thank you vwking!
I've been pulling plugs out of dark crevices for 4 decades & that's the best idea I've come accross! There is only so much torque u can apply with
ur fingertips on a thin threaded plug end! It should minimise the cross-threading problem too.
[ Edited on 15-2-2006 by geodon ]
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76camper
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 02:12 PM |
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better still, glue a peice of garden hose (or similar) to the inside of ur spark plug tube spanner thing (??). Never loose another spark plug again...
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helbus
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 03:30 PM |
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A proper spark plug socket should have rubber inside it to grip the plug
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76camper
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| posted on February 15th, 2006 at 09:31 PM |
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ahhhhh
proper spark plug socket....
* wakes up and wipes drool off keyboard*
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