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Author: Subject:  Another toy for me
MemberLIFE IN THE LOW LANE
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posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 02:21 PM



Yup sure is a learning curve!! I had a headache for 2 days after being in the dyno room for that amount if time sucking in methanol fumes!! We had a rocker cover come loose on 2nd boost run which had to be aborted as it spewed oil onto the exhaust and caught fire!! That was fun lol

The more hp you want to make the more you have to make sure everything is spot on or youll end up with a big pile of sad parts...




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posted on January 22nd, 2014 at 08:00 PM



The fumes play havoc with my eyes and it gives me a sore throat for a day or two. The only bonus is the smell- I use a VP additive and its awesome.As i am working on the engine, i can still smell what must get into the oil.So are you on top with the car yet?
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posted on January 25th, 2014 at 09:46 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Wow....on a mission. :tu::tu::tu:



It's becoming an epic journey.I think I see that small glimmer of light at the very end of the tunnel.We will see if the session with Mark or Pat happens next Saturday morning.



Well this session didn't occur.Due to a misunderstanding with the Lad here helping me with the laptop work,I ran it Friday night on the dyno with some load, and blew a flame hole out of number 3 cylinder to head sealing face.He was not happy with me-I was only to run it in 1st gear to ensure it sat OK on the dyno.He was going to do power runs with Pat on Saturday morning.Another fuxxxn setback.


That's a bummer!! This might sound a bit bogus but I ran becs type 3 for the first time with my race engine on stands, with on wheels on the back
and feathering the food brake through 1st, 2nd, and third gear with the auto and managed to get a tune up to 15psi @9000 rpm useing my data logger and sort any teething issues.
This was mainly to save dyno time and money.




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posted on January 26th, 2014 at 05:31 AM



Very cool!
Plus you ran a good 10 second run in Becs car too.

I had one of the first generations of Motecs.
Picked it up at Richard Bendells house in Melbourne, way back in 1989. (Edit ; it was 1989 and it was a potentiometer style. Few years later and maybe 1992 it was the first new style 3D map style unit. Very high tech.)

Anyway, I did the same procedure in my garage.
I have a log of 30 psi from that session.
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posted on January 26th, 2014 at 05:39 AM



nbturbo, you have a very cool car and soon you will be racing it successfully. Do not get depressed!
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posted on January 26th, 2014 at 07:28 AM



Troy has the car ready to head back to the dyno. Everything checked out ok and he has dumped the oil flushed the fuel system and cleaned all filters. Just waiting for the tuner now....



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posted on January 26th, 2014 at 08:16 AM



Good luck with Troy's car- hope your Tuner is switched on.Frallen- I will get inspired again with it. I pulled the other head as well- it had 3 lash caps in the rocker cover with one smashed into small pieces and 2 valve stems mutilated. I sent the heads to Chris Milton in Adelaide to make them like new. I have my car trailer build to keep me "in the zone"
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posted on March 17th, 2014 at 06:26 PM



Picture I grabbed of the beast at DOVW yesterday.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2776/13213903544_0d58abc98c_b.jpg
IMG_0776 by sebastienpeek, on Flickr




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posted on March 17th, 2014 at 07:43 PM



Thanks for that-excellent pic.
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posted on March 17th, 2014 at 08:46 PM



Awesome pic!!!, how's the progress???

I have a new mod for the auto's, very easy to do as well.
Your shift pattern is PRN123, I can make it PRN123N. Awesome for dyno's and 1/4 mile over runs.




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posted on March 17th, 2014 at 09:25 PM



That's awesome Aaron!



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posted on March 18th, 2014 at 05:02 AM



Would have to mod the shifter. My VW shifter looks nothing like an original. Mine is PRN123,but I have put a top gear lock out - I have to lift the lever for 3rd to prevent accidentally getting it on the shift into 2nd.
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posted on March 19th, 2014 at 09:08 PM



I have two other ways to do this, no.1 is to mod the v/b and the other way which I'm making is a full external fed trans brake and neutral both activated by two momentary 12v+ buttons.
So press one button for t/brake or press the 2nd one for 'N',
T/brake button will only work in 1st
'N' button will work in any forward gears, at any time.
But all still on paper




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posted on March 19th, 2014 at 09:46 PM



How do you go holding your Van at staging with just the brakes as it comes on boost?
Is there a way to get oil out of the Trans to run through a cooler if you get a Trans brake happening? Remember what I told you about the ground breaking stuff coming from your shed- and it is still happening.
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posted on March 20th, 2014 at 02:49 PM



The bus is still porsche 6spd manual. Bec's type 3 is the only auto at this stage and has disks on the rear to hold it at 4300rpm @ 9psi, no trans brake.

I drill two extra hols in the trans case into the line that feeds the converter this is the best line as it has content feed in all gears including 'N' and 'P'.
All these holes are done before its built. I'm looking at a modified sump and my v/b with every thing, t/b, 'N', and oil lines for cooling, to bolt in with out a full pull down.




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posted on March 21st, 2014 at 10:45 PM



[IMG]
]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s207/Frallan2/transauto003.jpg~original[/I...

Like this!

Hmm, I do not understand why Photobucket will not copy.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s207/Frallan2/th_transauto003.jpg
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posted on March 22nd, 2014 at 08:08 PM



Yes Fredric just like the t3 (vangon) cases.



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posted on January 15th, 2015 at 08:50 PM



It finally got the better of me Rod-had to get back into it-here is proof.

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posted on January 16th, 2015 at 06:40 AM



What is going on Gary?



Quote:
Originally posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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posted on January 16th, 2015 at 11:20 AM



Dave-you wouldn't have enough tissues at your place if I told you the whole story.A year ago torched the cylinder head.Had that repaired by the same firm that 12 months earlier completely rebuilt both heads.This time they discovered that one head had different size exhaust valves(go figure when they did the first rebuild).Told them to do whatever will make it good-another $3,000 with 4 new exhaust valves at $400 each.When I get them back,they had faced the inlet valve stems off to set them at the same height as the new exhaust valves.Not enough valve stem to use lash caps without riding on the collets.I bought new caps and machined them to clear the collets.With all this pissing around,the rocker geometry was no where near right,so while doing that I managed to drop an 8mm nut down the pushrod tube hole.With every magnet style known to man-I couldn't get it out.At that point anybody with any halfarsed story how they liked VWs was welcome to it.Anyway 12 months has gone without even looking at the thing.Talked to Rod at the VW show in Adelaide late last year and he told me to get off my arse and fix it.Found the nut wedged under the windage tray,so it probably would never have caused an issue-but not worth the chance.I was also talking to Alf Kamilo at the VW show,and he reckons the valves they fitted have hardened stems,so don't need lash caps.I have decided to not use any,so if the inlet valves shit themselves,I will just replace them as needed.I made some mods to the suction pipes for the dry sump system and the bearings look just like when I fitted them.Its all back together now and waiting on some new pushrods from Mike at Autocraft to finish one side. I have awesome geometry now after a lot of pissing about.
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posted on January 17th, 2015 at 01:33 AM



I know this is of no help right now but if you have the skills or have a machinist friend you can buy Titanium valves from the NASCAR teams here in the US for little cash and resize them to your combo. I have made multiple sets for my race cars over the years and also for my friends round track cars. Some are brand new valves , some have only dyno time on them . Here is an example,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEL-WEST-5-16-TITANIUM-INTAKE-VALVES-2-165-FORD-CHEVY... Hope this will help, Mike
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posted on January 17th, 2015 at 06:29 AM



Gary, I envy you for you patience.....and that little yellow express delivery truck. :tu::tu:

Cheers, Greg




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posted on January 17th, 2015 at 08:00 AM



Thanks for the link Mike- plenty of bargains there. I will chase it up. My heads take Chevrolet valves.Greg,I guess it has something to do with what we both suffer from- maturity.Cute little delivery truck isn't it??
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posted on January 19th, 2015 at 06:35 AM



give me a call if you want titanium valves at the right price , they are 2nd hand but they are good (been using them since 2002
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posted on January 28th, 2015 at 09:13 AM



Thanks Dave-will see what happens when I start it up.Have just had an unreal experience with somebody who has made some new pushrods for me.Phil Mizzi put me in touch with John from Jet Engineering in Victoria.I sent him a bent Autocraft rod and he has reproduced it and increased wall thickness to 0.140" from the OG 0.080".Less than a week turnaround and very reasonably priced.If you ever need pushrod help,phone John (0412 223 885)
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posted on January 30th, 2015 at 04:11 PM



New pushrods arrived today-have gone from 93grams to 144grams.It's the centre hole that's made the difference.Hopefully bent rods are a thing of the past.Now to iron out some more ongoing issues.
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posted on February 10th, 2015 at 04:36 PM



I've just read this thread from the beginning. What a great build, quite a credit to your dedication and skills as a fabricator.

I've seen a few beetle ute builds now and this is my favourite looking one so far, a very custom hotrod look. Nice job.

Best of luck with the remainder of the build and ironing out those issues, and congrats on such a cool build.




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posted on February 10th, 2015 at 09:38 PM



Thanks for your comments.I have a Manx buggy getting the treatment at the moment,but have been making stuff to begin a street version of the Ute as a Hotrod.Will go auto trans again,but something Subaru hanging out the back.Keen to try a good sized diesel engine for something a bit different.
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posted on February 12th, 2015 at 09:28 PM



I wanted to try something to make it easier to get the car on and off the trailer,so came up with this idea.Its a pain in the arse with the front guards dragging on the ramps all the time.It gives me about 70mm more clearance between the front guards and the ground.If they work I will leave them in place to load ,travel and unload.I used an over centre pin on the top one just to prevent them jumping off in transit.I have made some rings for hooking the tie downs onto-they bolt up to the lower link pin adjusting bolts.

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posted on February 12th, 2015 at 09:41 PM



Great idea! I use a block of wood at just the right length between my fork brace and bottom yoke on the bike to do the same thing.
Makes getting on/off much easier. :smirk:
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