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posted on April 10th, 2015 at 09:07 PM



For you Rodney P.I don't think I explained it too well on the phone.It gives the shaft 0.030" end float.I will pack the area with grease and fit a paper gasket to stop any leakage.I pressed the brass plug in so it should stay there.

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posted on May 21st, 2015 at 10:01 PM



Bit of an update on what's been going on with my Drag Car's ECU tune issues.When I bought the system from CB performance,it came with no written instructions about assembly,but every wire was clearly marked where it needed to be.The one marked constant 12volt I put on the main battery isolator-so it would be isolated in an emergency if needed.After all this pissing around with 2 different tuners and being told that the car is good to race each time I picked it up-I started to think that the fault was happening in my shed.After emailing some fuel tables and logs to Mark at CB,he asks where the constant 12volt wire is fed from.He informed me that if the ignition is turned off and the main isolator is also turned off in less than 45 seconds,most of what was loaded into the ECU will be lost.Finally after this shit happening for nearly 2 years,I think I have found what's been causing the problem - me.Most times when I ran the car in the shed,I always turned the main isolator off each time after shutting the engine down.A bit disappointed with it all.I now have it on the battery terminal.The car is now back at a Tuner and will be ready for collection sometime next week.Heres hoping I may get some arse in seat time.We have a race your mates event here June 6th.
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posted on May 21st, 2015 at 11:18 PM



Glad to hear that you got the ECU issue figured out Gary.
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posted on June 5th, 2015 at 02:13 PM



Gary, just finished reading this from the beginning. Glad to see that you are getting close. Those electrical problems are a pain in the butt. hoping to have mine running by the end of the year.

Chalee
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posted on June 5th, 2015 at 11:17 PM



Got a phone call late Tuesday night from the Dyno bloke with some bad news and some more bad news. He had been playing with the car on and off for nearly 2 weeks and was getting more pissed off each time he tried tuning it. He tunes Motec,Haltec and Wolf ECU's and he cant believe how difficult the CB one is to make any changes. Anyhow he thought he had it just right about 9pm Tuesday night so had a coffee break. When he tried to restart it- no spark, no injectors or fuel pump. This has been a fault from day 1 and the only way to fix it is to simply remove the large plug from the ECU and put it back on and it all works again. I have said all along that the ECU is rooted having an intermittent fault . CB reckon they have never had an issue with any ECU's. I told the tuner I would contact CB and buy a new one. His idea was to buy something that is easy to tune and stay clear of the CB one. I can get a Wolf ecu for a reasonable price. What do you blokes think about them. I am so over this shit with trying to tune this thing that I will try anything.Any clues to help out??? He is away now till next week some time at the Fink Races. He does the tuning for Hayden Bentleys race car and is there as a crew member
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posted on June 6th, 2015 at 12:17 AM



CB also rekn they had never had an issue with their old 1.25 rockers, or that batch of off-centre CNC 044s that developed cracks in the intakes a few years ago, or their hard chrome stemmed valves that now recommend lash caps, or, or, or........

CB also make some really good stuff, but if they refuse to back their stuff up if there is ever an issue (as there is purely coz sometimes shit happens), then go elsewhere.

If the only thing that fixes the thing is to unplug the ECU every time, then yes, it's stuffed.

Your tuner is telling you the right stuff. Wolf is cheap, reliable, and damn near stone-age simple, and has been for 20 years.
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posted on June 6th, 2015 at 01:03 AM



Been having the same problem with an CB ECU over here... It's an absolute drag!



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posted on June 6th, 2015 at 06:31 AM



Thanks for the replies- been feeling like a Shag on a rock for ages about this and because I am hours away from the Professionals who can help- was getting close to making it a show car only.The guy from CB claimed that the first tuner had no idea what he was doing and changed the tune with join me software, but it was shit next day from his attempt. Then I torched the head,found another tuner and it turns to shit also,was thinking that it's all too hard. Maybe a small light has come on at the end of a very long tunnel.
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posted on June 6th, 2015 at 01:19 PM



I have just bought the ViPEC I88 ECU, but I haven't installed it yet, but their not cheap.

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posted on July 28th, 2015 at 06:37 PM



My car is still with the tuner- delivered it on May 10 - have forgotten what it looks like.Have got back onto the trailer for some therapy.Have made steel mudguards from 2mm plate and welded them in with a 40x40 rib to strengthen the thing lengthways.Made an access door with a step and will start to do the side vertical bars tomorrow.I priced the Ally panel today and got all the sizes and colours that are available.Will buy 4020x1500 sheets and cut them in half(2010) and stand them up.Will take 3 pieces each side with an offcut of 550 to do the last piece at the back.I am using a silver outside with white inside.

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posted on July 31st, 2015 at 08:58 AM



CB does make and sell some nice stuff and their staff is very helpful , but it seems to me that their electronic products are not something I would recommend . We tried the Black Box and the programmable crank fired ignition/ Boost control system, neither of which we were satisfied with . Mark was VERY helpful but like you there was no paper work telling us how to program the system and did not mention a switch on the back that locked out our settings , it erased every change we made. I used a " FAST " Fuel injection system on a friends car , was very simple/ trouble free to use. Mike McCarthy
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posted on August 1st, 2015 at 01:05 AM



Same problems I struggled with Mike.Its like you don't know what you don't know and your never gunna find out unless you just happen to mention a recurring fault- the answer was" oh that occurs because you failed to do something specific" - never mind that it's been pissing me around for nearly 2 years.I am way over it. Sorry to hear you had similar issues.
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posted on January 3rd, 2016 at 07:06 PM



Another 3 months and this thing is 10 years in the making.Any normal Human would have chucked the towel in years ago.This is my latest pics taken yesterday.It has spent most of it's life like this.The trans shit itself just as the engine was having it's last dyno run to finish the tune off.I had to send the trans to the Gold Coast to get it repaired by a bloke who actually knows what he is doing- the expert at my end who did the first rebuild was lacking in VW trans skills.Thank God for Aaron.I believe the engine tune is finally somewhere near being correct-although the engine doesn't sound as crisp as it did before the new tuner did his thing.It has now been fully rewired to suit the new Wolf ECU with new ignition modules and the crank angle sensor cog wheel modified for a different system.The tuner had me modify the exhaust to shift the waste gate up close to the collector,so I had the whole thing ceramic coated again.Hoping 2016 will be the year this thing actually gets a full pass in??????

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posted on January 3rd, 2016 at 08:22 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
Another 3 months and this thing is 10 years in the making.Any normal Human would have chucked the towel in years ago.

It has now been fully rewired to suit the new Wolf ECU with new ignition modules and the crank angle sensor cog wheel modified for a different system.


Good stuff Greg. The Wolf stuff has an excellent reputation.

If it makes you feel any better (which it probably won't! :lol: ) I've had my "new" 750 stretched and slammed dragbike in the shed for 4 years now. The frame/swingarm/trees/forks have been hanging from the shed rafters for so long that it looks red-brown now, not the metalflake black it should be, and I can't even remember which box the clutch setup is in. I'd assemble it and go but it took so long that now I basically have nowhere to race it (Motorplex/ANDRA/squabbles etc).

You should be proud, that's a really good looking race car.
:tu:
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posted on January 3rd, 2016 at 09:39 PM



Gary, the pickup looks great and you've persisted through thick and thin to get it where it is today.
I'm sure 2016 will be your year.

Don't feel too bad bout the 10 years...Was talking to a few of the boys at Der Erste Freitag (last time i went was some years ago-another story in itself) and they asked me how long it's been for mine.....17 years-and I've still got a couple of years to finish it off :) and that's after I finish the wifes car first!!
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posted on January 3rd, 2016 at 10:19 PM



Good day Dino - I had forgotten about your project.I remember when I first spotted the post on your Oval- I was getting stuck into my Oval at about the same time and I was using your build for clues to help my project. I want this car finished so I can start my next one- a VW Beetle Hot Rod ute.
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posted on January 19th, 2016 at 07:51 PM



Nice one gary, can't rush perfection. Mines heading into 15 yrs this year and on a minor hiatus til later this year.

Did mike build your old box? I would've talked to him about it. He is a great builder




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posted on January 20th, 2016 at 11:47 AM



Quote:
Did mike build your old box? I would've talked to him about it. He is a great builder

No need-found the best VW auto trans bloke in Aus to fix it.He is just a bit too far away though.
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posted on February 5th, 2016 at 07:54 PM



Well here we go again.Got the auto trans back in last night,and was about to slip in the engine-when I remembered the Tuner rang me once about the tappets getting noisy.He checked the clearances and some were .030".So it is easier to do them out of the car-took off the covers and discovered that all 4 exhaust stems are rooted.The rockers are rubbing on the collets.There was a suspicion that this may occur after all the crap I went through with the Head repairer.I will try and get the heads off by the end of the weekend to check out what's needed.
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posted on February 12th, 2016 at 02:43 PM



This is the next round of more stuff to fix.

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posted on February 15th, 2016 at 07:29 AM



Hi Gary,
If your valves did not come with hard tips inserted, you really need a firm fitting lash cap.

If you DID have lash caps, then loss of valve control has allowed them to come off.

Some of those autocraft cams need religious maintenance of a zero-cold-lash setting to help with valve control.

I may have some spare valves, if you send me the length and diameter.

DB




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on February 15th, 2016 at 03:25 PM



Dave-with a process of elimination-one day I may get on top of it.When the heads were last done,they skimmed the exhaust stems to be the same length as the new inlets.If they had hardened stems,well that disappeared.There was 3mm of stem left and my lash caps were 3.5mm deep.I machined 1mm off the caps and set it all up.After the first start up,some of the caps jumped off and I bent a couple of the Autocraft pushrods.Thinking back,that is what was wrong.I had a new set of heavy duty rods made in Melbourne,which would now stop all the flexing and bending.The valves are 1.55" across the head,5.250" long and tip to collett groove is .300" with the groove having a square top shoulder and 11/32 stem diam.It would appear the new inlets have hardened stems,but there is a small amount of metal flow on all of them from rocker movement.Thanks in advance.
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posted on February 15th, 2016 at 07:46 PM



That is an odd length :(
Normally, Autocraft heads have 5.05" length, with .390" tips
and I have some 1.482" ti valves in that length,
or some Inconel 1.6" diameter at 5.15" length, with .260 tips.

Closest I could find online were these, but need a collet change to radius type:

http://www.cvproducts.com/ProdDet.aspx?PN=XEV1600-5240-3412-R 

Probably could use a larger exhaust valve anyway.




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on February 15th, 2016 at 09:55 PM



Gary, just finished reading through you thread!

Sorry to hear about all the heartache you've been having. I now know what you were talking about on the phone.

But judging by the quality and perseverance of your build I'm sure that you will get any of these last little issues sorted and lay down some solid runs this year.

Keep up the great work mate.


Smiley :)




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posted on April 25th, 2016 at 11:10 AM



Dave,I found some Ferrea valves in the US with hardened tips and square groove for a good price.I have had new guides fitted and the seats done again.I am trying to do the rocker geometry and was wondering if this is OK.I have 4.5mm shim packs under the rocker pads and have very little rocker contact at fully closed,but good contact for the rest of the sweep.I couldn't get any bigger valves in there.I have 3 sets of Autocraft rockers,early silver 1.25,late dark 1.25's I just got from Rod,and late dark 1.49's.2 sets have the oil hole in the adjuster and the hole drilled in the rocker,but it doesn't go anywhere.The roller bearings don't have a drilling in the cage to lube themselves.It looks like it all relies on splash from the pushrod/rocker seat each time there is clearance at each valve closing.

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posted on April 25th, 2016 at 08:15 PM



Thanks Henry-I tried that method and I am very pleased with the outcome.Because of going back to 1.25's,I have to reinstate the pushrod tube holes back to OG in the heads.Will mill some ally flat bar tomorrow with new holes and remount it all.Looks like I can use my new bullet proof pushrods again.
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posted on April 26th, 2016 at 07:08 PM



Yeah don't use the silver rockers, they are for low rpm/light springs only.

All Autocraft rockers are splash lubed, and the solid adjusters are a better deal.

The stud/hole in the shaft for the pro-series heads should be in the centre of the shaft.(in a vertical plane). Type 1 VW shafts will have an offset hole(likely the shafts with your silver ones do).

Geometry is ultimately about the best sweep across the valve stem, for best travel and wear.

With the valve now longer than original, the rocker shaft offset will not be as good as originally,(due to the 9.5 degree stem incline)
but at least at full lift (where the spring applies the most force),
the tip is in a good position.

In a perfect world you could move the stud holes in the head with a timesert.




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on May 1st, 2016 at 02:41 PM



The stud/hole in the shaft for the pro-series heads should be in the centre of the shaft.(in a vertical plane). Type 1 VW shafts will have an offset hole(likely the shafts with your silver ones do).

I didn't know about the different shafts until Rod phoned and explained it all.The shafts with the 1.49's were the correct ones.Lucky,because I was pissing around trying to get it with the off set hole shafts.All good now.Just have to shift the pushrod tube holes back to the original location by making new ally plates.
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posted on May 3rd, 2016 at 11:19 AM



those pushrod tube holes are different on each head,(on some castings)
so make sure you have them on the correct sides before changing them!




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on May 9th, 2016 at 04:33 PM



I am making new ally plates again Dave to relocate the holes-so will put the plates where ever the best spot will be to get the push rods some where near the centre.
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