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Author: Subject:  Another toy for me
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posted on March 18th, 2011 at 05:08 AM



if you keep the tension wrench at 90 degrees to the spanner you can keep the tension the same.



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posted on March 18th, 2011 at 05:57 AM



There's a bloke called Pythagoras [not sure if he gets on here] who knows how to work all that stuff out. :smilegrin:

Hope to see you at Lake Gairdner, Gary.

Cheers, Greg




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posted on March 18th, 2011 at 07:45 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
There's a bloke called Pythagoras [not sure if he gets on here] who knows how to work all that stuff out. :smilegrin:

Hope to see you at Lake Gairdner, Gary.

Cheers, Greg


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posted on March 18th, 2011 at 08:23 PM



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[Hope to see you at Lake Gairdner, Gary.

Cheers, Greg
Things aren't looking too good at the moment for that-it has been raining here constantly since last night-and there is a big rain system still in the works coming across from the West which will go right over the Lake.Will have to check to see if there was any rain up there earlier this week.Thanks for the tips Dave.
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posted on April 14th, 2011 at 10:07 PM



Finally got the pushrod drama sorted-with these new plates I was able to relocate the position of the tubes at the head end.I had to die grind the openings in the head to prevent the pushrods binding thru their travel-it all works good now.I have made a new set of pushrods,but was unlucky to have one tube split down the side as I knocked in the ball end,so have ordered another set from Autocraft-will have plenty of spares now.With the new heads and cylinders and with good rocker ratio,these pushrods are exactly 20mm longer than the originals that came in the engine.Have almost got the intake manifold sorted-still need to make a jig to locate the injector holders while I weld them into position.Have got the body back from the Panel Bloke-he has done an excellent job of cutting all the rust-but he has fabricated new "B" pillars that look like they would be OG from the Factory.Going to send the body to Adelaide to have it acid dipped ready for a coat of Yellow.

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posted on April 15th, 2011 at 05:18 AM



Looks great!

Just a tip with the manifold,
try to make the runners shorter if you can.
Even a balance pipe within the pairs of runners will help.
Otherwise the peak torque will be too low in the RPM and thus power will be lower.
14" to the valve is a good number.




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posted on April 15th, 2011 at 05:51 PM



Thanks Dave-so to make the runners shorter,I can only make the plenum larger.
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posted on April 15th, 2011 at 07:57 PM



You could just add a balance tube, the same diameter, across the point where you want your effective runner length to be,
or even better, merge then separate your runners on each siide , again, at that length point .
I would avoid a large plenum if you can help it, the added surface area requires a lot of bracing to resist burst.




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posted on April 15th, 2011 at 10:32 PM



OK Dave,understand that.What do you run the valve clearance at with the Autocraft tapered pushrods? I am fairly certain they are C/M( I had to machine the ends square when I cut them,looks like C/M when machining) so would zero clearance be the GO??
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posted on April 16th, 2011 at 05:04 AM



Yeah zero is the go.



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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 03:45 PM



Finally got ithe rocker covers on and finished.Can concentrate on doing all the outside stuff now.Welded the injector holders last night.Made a rough jig to hold them in place while welding and to make sure they are the same both sides and the fuel rails will be the same.Want to start the exhaust,but auto trans is still away being done.Need to bolt engine and trans back into car to fabricate exhaust so it clears everything.

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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 06:31 PM



Very nice :tu: :tu:

What sort of hp/boost you shooting for?




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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 09:16 PM



Was hoping for around 300.Waiting on the new CB fuel injection to be finished to give it a try on this engine-they are hoping for end of May to have it ready.They are still tying up all the loose ends to get rid of any faults.Will get it onto a dyno then to see what we can wring out of it. I am hoping to get smoke out of it by mid year.
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posted on April 22nd, 2011 at 10:05 PM



Just in time to debut at Warwick.... :tu: :tu:...... :)



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posted on May 14th, 2011 at 05:02 PM



Almost finished the exhaust-waiting on a new wastegate to arrive-need to weld a 38mm pipe just below the turbo with a flange to mount it.Will probably waste the exhaust into the tailpipe.Waiting on a box of Fragola aluminium fittings to arrive,to plumb all the oil and fuel systems.The auto trans is back together,but he is trying to sort out the valve body for manual shift changes.If he can't manage it,I can buy a reverse pattern manual shift valve body from Transaxle Engeneering in the US-they have one on the shelf ready to go.Next couple of months is going to see a lot of this stuff finally coming together.Was going to make a fuel tank,but picked this up for a good price-not worth the drama of trying.All the fittings are -10,so big enough for good flow.

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posted on June 26th, 2011 at 09:04 PM



Some more progress on the Toy-body is back from being acid dipped-only a couple of rust holes-will be an easy repair.I have marked out all the areas where I am cutting the front to clear the beam and the steering column.Fitted up a mudguard tonight and cleaned the glass bonnet ready to fit.I ended up buying a new reverse pattern,manual shift valve body,chrome moly Audi 5 inch hubs,chrome moly drive shaft and pump flower from the States.Also bought Kevlar bands and Raybestos discs and different steels for the clutch hubs.I have bolted it up to the diff housing and have made another mounting bracket where the 2 join.This will give me 3 mounting positions for the trans in the frame.

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posted on July 11th, 2011 at 03:53 PM



Spent all weekend cutting out more of the floorpan not needed and added 2 extra side impact bars to the roll cage.The engine and trans have been bolted in for the first time.Modified an OG Type 3 auto shifter and adapted it to suit the Bus shift cable.Can fit the fuel tank and lines and finish the dry sump supply line.Making an ally tube for the turbo drain-will drain straight into the top of the oil tank.The body will be painted by this weekend,so I need to get the pan finished and painted fairly quickly.I am still waiting for CB's new injection system to be finished-date has gone out to early September now before they think it will be ready for sale.

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posted on July 12th, 2011 at 06:14 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Looks great!

Just a tip with the manifold,
try to make the runners shorter if you can.
Even a balance pipe within the pairs of runners will help.
Otherwise the peak torque will be too low in the RPM and thus power will be lower.
14" to the valve is a good number.


so dave if you run a singular pipe each way to a merged manifold end like a standard intake with the magic 14" that is the go? am i understanding this correct? it cant be that easy is it? that is what they describe as pulse reversion?




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posted on July 12th, 2011 at 06:32 PM



I haven't done the manifold yet-trying to figure the easiest way to change it to get near 14".
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posted on July 13th, 2011 at 01:37 AM



do the oposite of your exhaust 1 int 2 into 4.
use bends rather than a box.air doesn't stop and turn.




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posted on July 13th, 2011 at 02:02 AM



maybe something like this
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n1/westibug/PB150119-4.jpg




down sharon.
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posted on July 13th, 2011 at 02:07 AM



sorry it's been awhile.
i can't get the picture to come up just the link.




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posted on July 15th, 2011 at 10:20 PM



Yes I can make something like that.Probably won't be able to get the welds so neat though.Dangerous-would a 5/8" ID supply line from the dry sump tank to the pump be big enough? I can go to a 3/4" ID if needed.
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posted on July 16th, 2011 at 08:50 AM



G'day Gary, The bloke who made the dry-sump tank for my Sports Sedan fitted a 3/4" fitting to the bottom. He [a very experienced racer] said that it if the 'suction' line to the pump is too small, then cavitation can happen - VERY NASTY! I ran a 3/4' ID hose to the pump - my tank was in a similar position to yours. Hope you don't mind me butting in Dave.:smilegrin:

Cheers, Greg




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posted on July 16th, 2011 at 09:57 AM



Butt-in all you like Greg, that is what forums are all about!
I would agree with those comments,
only to add that the longer your line is, the larger diameter it should be to prevent the cavitation.




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posted on July 16th, 2011 at 05:16 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Butt-in all you like Greg, that is what forums are all about!
I would agree with those comments,
only to add that the longer your line is, the larger diameter it should be to prevent the cavitation.

I agree Dangerous-I have learnt a lot during my visits here over the years.My tank has -12 fittings and the pump inlet is -8. I have some 25mm ally tube which I can make fittings for, which will give me a good supply volume to the pump.I was thinking the 5/8 may have been a bit small for the length of the run-thanks for confirming.
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posted on July 25th, 2011 at 05:52 PM



Bought a stainless 12volt,20mm ID solenoid valve to go in the suction side of the pump.Will be energised with the ignition "on" switch.Finished my breather tank-made from 100X50 Ally tube-got everything going into it,including the trans,diff and dry sump tank.Finished all the ally pipe work for the engines oil system.Dangerous,I am making the brackets for the wheely bars-what are your thoughts on hanging them off the IRS trailing arms-just near the lower shocker mount???.

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posted on July 28th, 2011 at 10:29 PM



Brought the body home tonight-now I have triplets in the yard-only this one is a lot brighter than the other 2.When I checked on it yesterday morning it was white,this afternoon it's very yellow.Very pleased with the way it turned out.Put the new dash plates in already.

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posted on July 28th, 2011 at 10:35 PM



Got the mirror off ebay for the vintage 60's look.

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posted on July 30th, 2011 at 09:43 PM



very nice Gary .. I am really starting to appreciate all the manufacturing and fabricating you have had to do .. hat of to you for your work



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