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posted on April 5th, 2006 at 02:17 PM
Bare Metal
Hi All
I'm in the process of getting ready to restore my bus. As I find the rust, I tend to bare metal it, I've been using those PolyX paint rust and
graffiti removers, like a scouring pad for grinders. Eventually I will propbably bare metal the whole bus, would these things be ok or would they
generate too much heat on the bigger panels? I use metal ready after I bare metal, fantastic product, took a bit back to bare metal about a month ago,
not a spot of rust.
ruckus
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posted on April 6th, 2006 at 09:02 AM
We've been using a similar product on Doc's split panel and ren's notch (blue plastic wheel attatched to grinder - think it's made by Josco or
something. About $10). Not bad heat wise and I haven't noticed any warpage, even after doing the whole bus roof and front as well as nearly the whole
notch. I use it very gently and constantly run my hand over the metal to make sure it's not getting too hot. If you move a fair bit it should be
ok?
Does a great job of polishing as it spins much paster than a sander, although edges can eats the pads up pretty quickly. Some issues are discussed in
another thread on strip-it disks
[ Edited on 5-4-06 by ruckus ]
killakornkobb
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posted on April 8th, 2006 at 09:53 AM
careful wiping your hands over the bare metal rob..
as a very strict rule, at "charlies" we dont touch the bare mnetal with our bare hands.
the oil/fat in your skin can leave marks in the metal, causing corrosion, having said that we tend to paint over the metal with etch fairly swiftly,
so if you do touch any bare mteal spots, its a good idea to buzz it with 120grit on a 5mm orbital sander before etching/priming
the "clean and strip" wheel by 3M is available in a buff pad size, which we use on all our bare metal strips AFTER using conventional kill your
lungs paint stripper.. means you can do the whole car with one buff pad, as most of the paint is already gone, and your just cleaning the metal with
the pad.
