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 71EJVan
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 01:54 PM |
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Problems with POR15
Has anyone had problems with POR 15 reacting with filler and separating.
Where I welded any sections on my 1302 german look I sealed the areas with POR15 for that "extra protection". The area was then ruffed up with
600grit wet and dry and etch prime applied for it's extra sticky properties. In some areas like the rear quarters there needed some filling also
before final finishing.
What has happened since then is everywhere there is filler it has lifted. Where there is no filler it is ok. It got worse over summer when the car sat
out in the heat.
The only thing I can think of is the POR15 made the filler sweat and then lift or the filler had a chemical reaction to the POR15.
Has anyone had similar experiences?
This means that the car that had quite a nice metalic green painjob will need repainting.
A warning to others.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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PurpleT3
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 02:45 PM |
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Was the POR over the filler or under?
If the POR was over the filler, perhaps the filler had not fully cured and vapours released caused the POR to lift. I have painted POR over two pack
glass fibre filler and have had no problems. I'm also not sure that etch primer sticks to paint any better than normal primer. I think it's the
acid in etch primer that helps it stick to metal better.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 04:11 PM |
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POR15 is not a product you use on the outside of the vehicle. If it is the outside of the vehicle you are talking about and that is where you have put
the filler, then unfortunatley you have to take it all out and go back to bare metal.
The only products you should put under filler is products like Spies Hecker redbrown primer, which is a two pack red oxide primer that is very stable.
Using metal prep like Deoxidine on the bare metal beforehand is also good.
Generally epoxy, etch and air dry enamel primers are not stable enough to allow filler or any finishing product to remain in place. They are designed
to be used under or inside, not where filler or final paint products will end up.
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71EJVan
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 04:23 PM |
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Peter
I thought as much. Good product for the floor pan though. I had an extractors blow out going to the Euro day this year and all the paint on the rear
valance is burnt also.
Bare metal back end of the car AGAIN! Man I love paint stripping. I should be spending my time on the VanRex conversion instead of this.
Will do the bare metal treatment as you described.
Regards and thanks for the tips.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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VolksFolks
A.k.a.: Pandy
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 04:33 PM |
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see my signature below! also check out http://www.rustbullet.com
sorry to here of your misfortune how annoying
Andy
[ Edited on 12-4-06 by VolksFolks ]
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out http://www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only.. |
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 09:12 PM |
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I painted POR15 over etch primer on my pan and despite assurances by the rep (rang them direct) that it would stick providing the etch primer was
roughed up....it flaked off like no tomorrow - had to strip it and start again. It stuck to bare metal though which is its intended purpose (yes I
asked the rep before applying it over the primer!).
I have some rust bullet on order from Andy - will see how that goes.
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VolksFolks
A.k.a.: Pandy
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 09:31 PM |
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hey Alan, was sent tuesday (6 Quarts), please expect it in a few days, anyone up the gold coast needs some, Alan has some up there now, 1 ltr (quart)
cand $66 a can.
Andy
sorry to hyjack seems like a good idea!
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out http://www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only.. |
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71EJVan
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| posted on April 13th, 2006 at 08:40 AM |
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It won't get repainted straight away. I'm doing a swap of a new 1600TP for the 2110 that is in there tomorrow for the daughter to drive. I may leave
it for about six months and let her put some scratches on it first before repainting it.
Lesson learned.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on April 13th, 2006 at 09:21 AM |
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Cheers Andy, I'll let you know when it arrives (yep, sorry to hijack brendan!)
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ancientbugger
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| posted on August 7th, 2006 at 08:25 PM |
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I've just acquired a baja bug where the previous owner has done all the hard work but he's painted the whole floorpan and running gear in a lovely
shade of aqua (light greeny/blue!) enamel paint, now what would be the best thing to do - leave it as it is( an option I don't like purely because of
the colour), paint over it in POR 15 or Rust Bullet (is this an option,can you paint over with either of these products?) or what? Any suggestions
would be welcome.
Barry
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 7th, 2006 at 09:22 PM |
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I won't use POR ever again; never had it 'work' properly. It's plain old hardware store $20 Epoxy black for me...
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Robo
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| posted on August 8th, 2006 at 06:23 AM |
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So whats this rust bullet like. Better than POR..?
Rob....
Boxer Power
Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
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megalania
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| posted on August 8th, 2006 at 02:36 PM |
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I ended up using kill rust on my bay window. Am going to spray it soon. Fingers crossed. I am doing a test panel soon, so I will find out soon enough.
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on August 8th, 2006 at 08:32 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Robo
So whats this rust bullet like. Better than POR..?
Rob....
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I have now used both and prefer Rust Bullet. Much much easier to apply and seems to be very durable thus far - only downside is it doesn't self level
as well as por15 which may be a factor if you want to coat over it and don't want to see brush marks. Other than that, I am happy with it. :thumb
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baybuscamperkid
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| posted on September 28th, 2006 at 06:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by megalania
I ended up using kill rust on my bay window. Am going to spray it soon. Fingers crossed. I am doing a test panel soon, so I will find out soon enough.
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good luck with the killrust, we absolutely coated out box trailer in it and we may as well have used $2 spraycans, rust rust rust...
Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool
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megalania
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| posted on September 29th, 2006 at 04:58 PM |
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I have had the bay sitting outside since I painted it and so far no rust at all, it hasn't even discoloured yet. I painted a door in Hammertone blue
and will put 3 coats of clear ontop and it came up trick, although the body was almost rust free when I got it so that might help. It says on the tin
that killrust can be used for outdoor furniture so I am sure it can take what the elements throw at it. If not I will just strip her and paint her
again, no big deal.
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