A.k.a.: Pete S
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posted on April 15th, 2006 at 01:45 PM
How to - Fit engine lid & bonnet seals
Technically not to hard a job, so defintley one of the first ones to start with if your Beetle needs it.
On our Beetle the engine lid seal was flat and cracked as was the bonnet one. This made opening the bonnet hard as it would not 'pop' up when the
lever was pulled.
It is also good to seal air in the engine bay and the water out of the bonnet.
This is what we started with.
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posted on April 15th, 2006 at 01:51 PM
Lots of dirt underneath. The corner has three nipples of rubber on the corner that you can break the old ones off. You will have to locate and pull
these through on the new rubber.
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posted on April 15th, 2006 at 01:53 PM
Get an old toothbrush or similar and clean all that old dirt out. Dirt is one of the ingedients along with water that promotes rust. Remove the dirt
and you are better off. If you have any surface rust, treat it with a rust converter. If there are rust holes, then you have to get that fixed before
putting the new rubbers on.
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posted on April 15th, 2006 at 01:56 PM
One of the ways I find it easy to fit the new rubbers is to stretch it as it is fitted. Using a lubricant is good, however try not to use an oil based
lubricant as they can change the composition of rubber and make lots of black mess. Water based, or even talc powder will help. I did this rubber dry,
and on my own. It is possible. Having another pair of hands to stretch the rubber as you feed it in does make it easier.
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posted on April 15th, 2006 at 01:58 PM
Once the rubber is fitted, you must make sure it is not still stretched inside the retainer, or bunched up and wrinkly. gently pull it side to side
and press it down to make sure it is fully located in the retainer. Then press down the ends of the retainers to pinch the rubber and stop it sliding
out. Do this with a rounded edge of a tool, so the paint is not chipped off.
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posted on April 15th, 2006 at 02:01 PM
Here is the finished pinched end. I have left the rubber a little bit longer at the back. I prefer longer rather than too short.
The front is fitted in a very similar way with the start being the section behind the bonnet to the two corners with the three rubber nipples. From
there make the two sides come down to the front centre. Once the rubber is in and not still stretched in the retainer, the ends can be trimmed to meet
in the middle at the front, and even superglued carefully together if you want to.
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posted on May 19th, 2006 at 10:05 PM
hmm i'm going to need to find a hoofpick somewhere haha
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posted on May 20th, 2006 at 05:51 PM
OR
You can use the mexican engine lid seal...
that just pushes over the edge of the engine lid it self....
Same with the bonnet....
although You will still need something at the top of the bonnet to stop water getting in there...
You can glue a piece of foam across the top....
I have seen this done... and have done it on My beetle..
I took the rubber tracks off as they can be a rust trap...
The mexican bonnet & deck lid seals are avaiable from VVDS, but I've heard of people buying them from auto shops...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
1SlowBeetle
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posted on September 15th, 2007 at 08:07 AM
Great little how to... you've inspired me. A question though. If these seals on the boot lid make the air stay where it should, why do people fit
the deck lid spacers? Are they just for looks or is that what is needed with much more than stock engines?
Cheers...
59 bug w 1916cc
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posted on June 18th, 2009 at 08:35 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by 1SlowBeetle
Great little how to... you've inspired me. A question though. If these seals on the boot lid make the air stay where it should, why do people fit
the deck lid spacers? Are they just for looks or is that what is needed with much more than stock engines?
Cheers...
I think people fit deck lid spacer to gain better air flow through there engine bay resulting in better engine cooling and cooler air intake.
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