| [ Total Views: 981 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 52625 ] |
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 liam66
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| posted on May 27th, 2006 at 09:14 AM |
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Paint, seal, powdercoat?
I've just finished the floor for my swb buggy.
Replaced all 4 section with heavy checkerplate.
Now it's time to paint the floor before it rusts- any recomendations? I'm thinking powdercoat but that'll involve finishing any barwork/ welding
first (and scraping the seam sealer off). I could two pack the whole thing which would look good but a bit off a hassle.
The ( bodgy) alternative would be to just lift the body off and spray pack it then jack it up, spray pack underneath then slop some of that rubbery
deadener goop under it.
[ Edited on 26-5-2006 by liam66 ]
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dubbill
A.k.a.: Dollar-Bill kombi
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| posted on May 27th, 2006 at 10:02 PM |
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THUMP
i also have a redone chassis and am very interested, powder coat, 2pac, acrylic, rust proof professional, por 15, cold gal, red oxide, fish oil,
penetrate this car is being made to use on beach 3x per week so it will see a lot of salt n sand |
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shaihulud
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| posted on May 27th, 2006 at 11:13 PM |
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When I had the pan of my buggy made for me it was fully stripped and delivered in undercoat after being sand blasted. I hand painted it in Killrust
gloss black. I applied two slopped on, thick, gooey coats. It looked OK for years and never looked like it would rust.
I've had the pan for my Manx SR powder coated in gloss black. So far it's withstood my rough handed construction technique.
I'll need some time to work out which is best.
I think that a well prepared and finished Killrust, POR15, etc., paint job will do and you don't need to rush your bar work before you are ready.
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dubbill
A.k.a.: Dollar-Bill kombi
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| posted on May 28th, 2006 at 12:02 AM |
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hey liam have a look in paint n body section i started a thread on this subject and judging by the response ill probably follow mickH's solution ie
barmastic and lanotec ah well have a look 4 yourself at the thread hope it helps |
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on May 28th, 2006 at 09:54 PM |
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I would advise against powdercoating due to the chance of cracking, and problems if you have to modify the chassis in any way with welding etc - you
will not be able to match the finish.
Two pack looks good but you're right - bit of a hassle to apply.
I would suggest considering either por15 or rust bullet. I used por15 on my beetle pan but prep work is critical and can be time consuming. I used
Rust Bullet on my second pan resto (See pic) and have been very impressed. Althought it doesn't self level quite as well as por15 it is very easy to
apply, prep isn't as critical and it is very durable. The silver finish looks pretty swish too!
Andy from http://www.volksfolks.biz can supply it = well worth enquiring about.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on May 29th, 2006 at 12:26 PM |
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I'd only use killrust if you have limited funds. I've found that it tends to peel...and that was after decent prep too.
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malcolm
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| posted on May 29th, 2006 at 01:16 PM |
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Friends and my self have tried 2paks and powder coating in hot rods, drag cars each have their merets powder coating is hard wearing but if it does
crack you could get rust developing under the surface a 56 chev I was doing the owner had it gal coated .Another thing is do the rust treatments and
colour then spray it in a clear stone guard dfferent spray nozzles will give different finishes but it will have better resistance to peppering under
the car .
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on May 29th, 2006 at 01:19 PM |
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Barmastic before colour coat.
[ Edited on 29-5-06 by Mick H ]
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