[ Total Views: 662 | Total Replies: 4 | Thread Id: 52654 ] |
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dubbill
A.k.a.: Dollar-Bill kombi
Officially Full-On Dubber
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posted on May 27th, 2006 at 10:25 PM |
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offraod chassis for sand and salt
ive just built an offroad chassis thats going to be used as a beach vehicle most of its life its now in undercoat and im wondering which way to go
next
1. 2 pac, or
2. acrylic, or
3. por 15, or
4. professional rust proof, or
5. fish oil, or
6. powdercoat or
ora combo
1.then 3..then 4..
or 6. 4.. 5
i realise nothing gonna stop it but if i can get 2 or 3 years extra that'd be me
[ Edited on 27-5-2006 by dubbill ] |
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VWCOOL
23 Windows of Awesome
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posted on May 27th, 2006 at 10:28 PM |
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2-pak or powdercoat AND fishoil
POR doesn't float my boat - noticed today it's rusting on my resto that hasn't even seen the road yet :cry
[ Edited on 27-5-2006 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
Bishop of Volkswagenism
Hairy Gutted Sloth
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posted on May 27th, 2006 at 10:41 PM |
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I used Barmastic on my pan(it's a 2 pak) and filled the inside of the tunnel with industrial Lanotec.The Barmastic is flexible and is easy to touch
up if it is "rocked" off....it's used on oil riggs and is suitable for saltwater immersion etc...Powdercoating may chip and is a pig to touch up
and i don't think it would be good on a pan doing lotsa beach work(my opinion anyway).Lanotec will stop all rust.Period.POR 15....yeh woteva, i
wouldn't bother with it as it's let me down badly in the past.I've never tried Rust Bullet myself,but it's supposed to be better than the POR
stuff.
[ Edited on 27-5-06 by Mick H ]
tssnq.com.au
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VWCOOL
23 Windows of Awesome
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posted on May 27th, 2006 at 11:20 PM |
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Lanotec. A trusted mate of mine reckons :thumb:bounce:birthday:tree so yeah, good stuff
Pay your debts, CxxT
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
Custom Title Time!
Keen to finish some projects
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posted on May 28th, 2006 at 06:27 PM |
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As many people don't know powdercoat is pourus and will let water straight through it and then trap partly behind the coating and corode your
pipework etc .
The way around this problem is to first completly etch prime the item prior to powder coating so as to stop the penetration of the elements at the
primer.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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