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Author: Subject:  AXLE HOP WITH NEW GEARBOX please help :)
MemberTHUDKNUCKLE
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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 01:45 PM
AXLE HOP WITH NEW GEARBOX please help :)


hey guys i am hoping someone an help me out with my lil situation :) i have just completed a 6 rib kombi tranny bus converison in my baja a week ago and now i am getting some axle hop on take off ?? the old single side plate box showed no sign of this at all and i have good strong engine and tranny mounts in place ( 13b Rotay)

[ Edited on 29/10/2006 by THUDKNUCKLE ]




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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 02:56 PM



have you got decent shocks? also, could just be the low nature of the very low first gear....hold on just a second, have you got your bowden tube installed right? it needs a decent kink in it or you'll get clutch shudder on takeoff. if it's not long enough you could pack it out with a few washers, or alternatively, use a kombi bowden tube which is about 10mm longer. I had this problem and the kombi bowden tube fixed it. Also, if you have a tranny strap, the bowden tube needs to go around the outside, not underneath.



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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 03:34 PM



my bus used to get that when i did standstill burnouts but i changed the rear shocks n it sits firm now



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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 06:11 PM



yes the shocks are new and didnt do it with the old gearbox as for the bowden tube i am unsure of what a bowden tube is or how mine is set up ?? this may very well be the problem ??? thankyou look forward to finding out this bowden tube :)

regards james




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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 06:21 PM



The bowden tube guides the clutch cable from the rear of the pan (where it exits) to the arm on your gearbox that you attach it to.

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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 06:36 PM



may i ask why will that will effect clutch shudder ?? and why the kink in the tube ?



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posted on October 29th, 2006 at 08:20 PM



Read this...

http://www.vw-resource.com/bowden_tube.html




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posted on October 30th, 2006 at 10:55 AM



Thankyou baja wes that is awsome help as i am pretty sure my tube is straight :)

take care




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posted on October 30th, 2006 at 01:37 PM



no more shudder then?



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posted on October 30th, 2006 at 01:55 PM



Mmm, so if I'm replacing the cable clutch with a hydraulic one, are there any "tricks", along these lines, that I need to be aware of ?



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posted on October 30th, 2006 at 02:29 PM



leave a bend in the hydraulic hose to allow the gearbox to move without pulling the hose tight (and breaking it).



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posted on October 30th, 2006 at 03:28 PM



Thanks Wes - am going to use steel though to the end end of the frame, then braided hose to the slave cylinder anyway, but will allow a bit more slack in any case.

Cheers .. Kim




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posted on November 3rd, 2006 at 09:23 PM



nope all shudder has gone but there is a lil bit in reverse thanks guys funny how a lil bend in a pipe can make all the differance



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posted on November 3rd, 2006 at 09:36 PM



it's the torque of the engine twistin itself and the box and if the tube is not stiff will affect smooth clutch operation.
so for a hydraulic i would not feed a rigid tube through the bracket (exbowdentube bracky)

the twistin may kink and weaken it thus shortening its life...




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posted on November 3rd, 2006 at 10:53 PM



Quote:
nope all shudder has gone but there is a lil bit in reverse thanks guys funny how a lil bend in a pipe can make all the differance


Where did you buy your clutch plate from, and what brand is it?

I had a little shudder in reverse only and couldn't get rid of it. I had a cheap no-brand clutch plate. Once it exploded I replaced it with a sachs clutch, and the shudder went away.




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posted on November 4th, 2006 at 06:17 AM



my clutch including clutch plate was custom built by the fellas out at albion clutch works. it definatly isnt a cheapo clutch plate as it was the best clutch and clutch plate they had on offer ( its 5 pad brass button model with thicker then stock pads) the shudder in reverse doesnt concern me to much as it is very minimal and only occurs on first take of:)



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posted on November 4th, 2006 at 07:37 AM



Lets just say that with a BRASS BUTTON clutch plate it will NEVER be as smooth as a fibre clutch plate but that is not to say that i would change it with the power you have with the rotary it will be one of those things to get use too.



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posted on November 4th, 2006 at 09:27 AM



yeah it is only in reverse though taking of is smooth with no shudder of jerking or clutch catching ( took a lil bit to get used to the weight of the clutch though ) and changing gears is smooth and fine with no shudder or feel at all. i am thinking it is due to being reverse such a low gear.

[ Edited on 3/11/2006 by THUDKNUCKLE ]




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posted on November 5th, 2006 at 08:24 AM



yeah, a brass button clutch will get those vibrations and be rougher compared to a stocker.

That's why I stuck with a stock 228mm sachs clutch plate. It doesn't slip and is very smooth.




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posted on November 6th, 2006 at 11:43 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Kimbo
Thanks Wes - am going to use steel though to the end end of the frame, then braided hose to the slave cylinder anyway, but will allow a bit more slack in any case.

Cheers .. Kim


Why bother with the steel line? Extra connections means more $$$ and more complications. We used a CNC Pull type slave cyl with braided line to a 3/4" PBR (cheapo!) master cyl. Never had a problem with it.

We still have it from the old car - I'll PM you.




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posted on November 7th, 2006 at 10:47 AM



Thanks Garry





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