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Author: Subject:  Extractors - HP?
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posted on February 1st, 2007 at 10:29 PM
Extractors - HP?


I've been thinking of opening up my bus's 2lt dual carby engine with an extractor and an exhust but am unsure what to get.
I know it depends on the type of exhaust but what kind of horsepower increase would I be looking at with a set of extractors and an exhuast that doesn't deafen everyone around me. I'd like something that gives me some more grunt but doesn't shatter windows if you know what I mean.

When I told my Wife that I'd have to loose the heater channels to put in a set of extractors she said, "oh well we'll just use blankets if we get cold, we used to do it my Uncle's beetle".
How cool was that? I wasn't sure she'd be that cool witht he idea, but then again that's why I married her. :)

After your thoughts and experience.
Thanks in advance people.
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posted on February 1st, 2007 at 10:37 PM



extractors result in a loss of low end torque generally on a stock twin carb 2L. been there tried it. on the other hand, the response from the mrs is nothing short of incredible.:tu:



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posted on February 2nd, 2007 at 02:15 AM



2lt type 1 or type 4?
Type 4 you will not necessarily lose your heater boxes, the extractors bolt to them.
On a std engine I think the type 4 std muffler works well. With a little engine work it might need to flow a bit better and then extractors will help.

If type 1, you can run 1 5/8 heater boxes and then extractors...
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posted on February 2nd, 2007 at 07:15 AM



It's a type 77 Kombi 2lt so I'm guessing it's a type 4 engine. It's the flat engine type, standard late bay window engine.
I thought the kombi was a type 2 or is that the split screen and the bay window is a type 4?
I know the early bay windows had the upright beetle (type1) engine in them.

[ Edited on 1-2-2007 by tinman ]
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posted on February 2nd, 2007 at 08:09 AM



You'll pick up a (small) handful of horses and most that I've seen allow you to retain heaters. A good check of everything else on the engine - comp, plugs, tappets, dizzy and possibly carby rebuild and jetting for the new pipes etc - will probably find more power



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posted on February 2nd, 2007 at 04:38 PM



extractors by them selves on a standard motor generally is hardly noticable except for noise
altho i;ve noticed all my beetles are usually quieter with extractors but just have a loud bark when u sink the boot in
but a good tuned equal lenght system with a decent muffler will work wel, not be noisy and may run abit cooler
the biggest bottleneck in vw motors are the intake and cam
u can really wake up a vw motor teaming some extractors with a set of webers
type 4 ratio rockers are around but i dont think theyre cheap

hth
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posted on February 2nd, 2007 at 09:32 PM



I believe 1977 Kombis are still type 2s

but the engine was designed for the type 4s : 411-412
and the VW Porsche 914 ..

and then into Kombis...

Lee




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posted on February 3rd, 2007 at 10:01 AM



I see no reason to lose the heater. The tube inside a J tube heater box assembly is every bit as efficient as one without the heater. Use the heater tube and attach anything else to it, as you would if you were fitting a Baja 4 in 1 system.
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posted on February 13th, 2007 at 11:12 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by tinman
I've been thinking of opening up my bus's 2lt dual carby engine with an extractor and an exhust but am unsure what to get.
I know it depends on the type of exhaust but what kind of horsepower increase would I be looking at with a set of extractors and an exhuast that doesn't deafen everyone around me. I'd like something that gives me some more grunt but doesn't shatter windows if you know what I mean.

When I told my Wife that I'd have to loose the heater channels to put in a set of extractors she said, "oh well we'll just use blankets if we get cold, we used to do it my Uncle's beetle".
How cool was that? I wasn't sure she'd be that cool witht he idea, but then again that's why I married her. :)

After your thoughts and experience.
Thanks in advance people.


Have a read on http://www.shoptalkforums.com. You will find that Jake Raby (US ACVW engine builder) is violently opposed to the stock exhaust as it "holds in heat". However, I suspect the impact of extractors on performance on their own is minimal. I recently installed a stainless steel system and have noticed little difference in performance (or noise). It is *possibly* running cooler on the open road but I haven't been on a long run yet. All will be revealed in a months time when I head to the Port Fairy folk festival!:P
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posted on February 15th, 2007 at 10:25 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by tinman
It's a type 77 Kombi 2lt so I'm guessing it's a type 4 engine. It's the flat engine type, standard late bay window engine.
I thought the kombi was a type 2 or is that the split screen and the bay window is a type 4?
I know the early bay windows had the upright beetle (type1) engine in them.

[ Edited on 1-2-2007 by tinman ]


WHen refferring to the vehicles... the Type 1 is the entire KdF/Beetle/Karmann Ghia/Thing/Superbeetle/L Beetle series, The Type 2 designation is applied to all aircooled Kombis (barndoor split, small window split, big window split, early bay, late bay), the Type 3 is... well... the Type 3 (sedan, fastback and stationwagon shape), and the Type 4 is the Type 4... a rather unsucessful successor to the Type 3 also available as a fastback, wagon, and i think sedan.

When referring specifically to Kombis, T1 is a splitwindow Kombi (1949-1967), T2 is a baywindow Kombi (1968-1979), T3 is a Vanagon (1980-1991), T4 is the first generation of the front engined, front wheel drive Transporter/Kombi/Caravelles (1990-2005), and T5 is the 2nd generation of front engined Kombi (2006-present).

aircooled Kombis are sometimes also referred to as T1a ("barndoor" split), T1b (smallwindow split), T1c (bigwindow split), T2a (early "lowlight" bay with oval taillights), and T2b (late bay with high lights (except 1972), and rectangle taillights).

WHen referring to engines, Type 1 are the uprihght cooled 1100, 1200, 1300 and 1500 engines used on Beetles, Type 1 KG's, all splitwindow Kombi's etc (1300 not used on Kombis)... and the 1600 engines built for use in Superbeetles/ L Beetles. These engines do not have bosses or drillings for rubber engine mounts and a transverse weight bearing crossmember under the forward end... hence they cannot be used in baywindow Kombis. most are single carbed except the odd few in Africa, Mexico and the US.

Type 2 engines are upright cooled 1600 engines built for use in Kombis from 1968-1977 (when to my knowledge 1600's were dropped from Kombis?). They have bosses and drillings for a mounting crossmember and rubber mounts, and other variations to facilitate their use in a Kombi. All are single carbuetted.

Type 3 engines are 1500's and 1600's with a flat "suitcase" fan setup running off the crankshaft rather than the belt driven upright setup of the Type 1 engine. they are designed this way to fit under the trunk floor of the Type 3 stationwagon, fastback and sedan. The 1600's have crossmember mounting holes so can be be converted to upright cooling and used in a Kombi if needed. the 1500's dont have hols or bosses. 1500's were singlecarbed, 1600's were either twin carbed or had D-jetronic fuel injection.

Type 4 engines are based on the old Type 1/2/3 VW boxer motor, but bigger alll round, sturdier, and with an aluminium crankcase and with a flat "pancake"cooling setup similar to the Type 3 motor. The were originally designed as a collaboration between Porsche and and VW for midmounting in Porsches 914 and rear-mounting in VW's Type 411 and 412. They began life in the 914 and 411/2 as a 1700cc motor with twin carburetters, and after the Type 4 flopped, it found it's way into the 1972 Kombi as an option. Then it was developed into an 1800cc carburetted engine and became standard equipment for the Kombi and 914, and was developed further into two fuel injected 2L variations for the 914 and the Kombi respectively. In AUstralia the engnes in Kombis remained carburetted as standard until 1978.

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posted on February 16th, 2007 at 10:14 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by woz_mnskmobi
I recently installed a stainless steel system and have noticed little difference in performance (or noise).


Could you post up some pics of your setup? I'm running 4 into 2 into 1 extractors (then into a baffled hotdog muffler) on my oval and it's loud - too loud for my preference anyways..

hope this isn't a hijack.. my apologise if it is...




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posted on February 16th, 2007 at 12:33 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by oval TOFU
Quote:
Originally posted by woz_mnskmobi
I recently installed a stainless steel system and have noticed little difference in performance (or noise).


Could you post up some pics of your setup? I'm running 4 into 2 into 1 extractors (then into a baffled hotdog muffler) on my oval and it's loud - too loud for my preference anyways..

hope this isn't a hijack.. my apologise if it is...


It's from Classic VeeDub. Part number 3439-stainless

http://www.classicveedub.com.au/SpareParts/Parts_Results.asp?NAV=3&Item_Code=3&Part_Description=&Parts_Category=muffler_exhaust&Car_ Year=&Part_No=
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posted on February 16th, 2007 at 12:56 PM



ah! thanks



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posted on February 16th, 2007 at 10:16 PM



Quote:

hope this isn't a hijack.. my apologise if it is...


No need to appoligise, no hijacking done. If my queries spark additional conversation I'm all for it and happy to read it.
I'd like to get an exhuast system but don't want anything loud but just want a slight increase in performance if that's possible.


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