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 CHADMYSTER
A.k.a.: Allan McGrath
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| posted on March 15th, 2007 at 02:51 PM |
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squeaky brakes
Now that Kristen has her licence Boris is now on the road a lot more. The problem we have found that as the front disks get hotter they squeal like a
pig when used. They are fine for the first half hour or so. It has new pads and disc rotors. Any suggestons
Thanks AL |
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aussiebaja
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| posted on March 15th, 2007 at 05:31 PM |
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id say your disks need machining or your pads are cooked because of hard braking ,my magna did the same thing and the guy reckoned they needed
machining so i did that and no more squealing
BETTER TO BE THOUGHT A FOOL THAN TO OPEN YOUR MOUTH AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT:puke
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 Bizarre
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| posted on March 15th, 2007 at 05:45 PM |
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maybe pull everything and give a REAL good brushing to get rid on any dust
Rub some emerypaper over the rotors and pads to rough things up.
May have glazed up
Clean the rotor with prepsol
See how that goes
Check to see if the pistons havent got stuck
Futue te ipsum!!!
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aggri1
A.k.a.: Aurel Griesser
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| posted on March 16th, 2007 at 05:02 PM |
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Hmm, bugger. The brakes on my bus are squealing as well, and I replaced the rotors and pads and rear wheel cylinders two years ago only. Wasn't
very cheap. There's also a little pulsing during braking - that is usually a sign of worn discs isn't it?
I didn't think I was harsh on them! Machining discs already, grrr...
A.
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Old Dubber
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| posted on March 17th, 2007 at 12:31 PM |
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Al,
Aside from any mechanical problems, the usual culprit with disc brake squeal is dry/rusty anti rattle/retaining plates, spreader spring and retaining
pins. In simple terms everything that holds the friction pads in place. Remove the pin or pins, the retaining clip, remove the pads, and the piston
retaining plates. Clean everything and reinstall. A very light smear of lubricant, applied very carefully you do not want it on the pads or rotors, is
sometimes required. Some of the brake shops sell a special lube for this purpose.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on March 17th, 2007 at 01:08 PM |
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Its usually dust causing the problem in the country..
rust just gets cleaned off by the pads...
Years ago when VWs were My daily drivers, dust on the discs usually caused the squealling...
I tried products made for squelling brakes but they didn't work...
I eventually came to the conclusion , that if the brakes are squelling or making a noise, its because they are working....
so I didn't really have a problem....
Lee
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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ACE_76
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| posted on March 17th, 2007 at 05:46 PM |
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Chad, If you have Girling calipers you MUST have the original noise-damping plates/shims behind the pads. They work fine wihout them, but may scream
more & more as brakes are used and warm up (as you noted). If you have the ATE callipers instead, they don't have the shims but do have a piston
retaining plate that may also help eliminate the squeal.. The pads for the ATE type should have a thin layer of papery stuff stuck on the back; not
sure but think the Girling pads also have. You can also get spray-on stuff (a pink "paint") for the backs of pads, which presumably helps in the
same way. If shims or reatinang plates are missing & all else looks good, try replacing those before doing anything more drastic. If everything is
in place & in good cond., try a different brand/type of pads. Some 'harder' pads might squeal anyway? |
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sinecure
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| posted on March 17th, 2007 at 09:31 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by aggri1
Hmm, bugger. The brakes on my bus are squealing as well, and I replaced the rotors and pads and rear wheel cylinders two years ago only. Wasn't
very cheap. There's also a little pulsing during braking - that is usually a sign of worn discs isn't it?
I didn't think I was harsh on them! Machining discs already, grrr...
A.
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The 'pulsing' during braking is either going to be warped discs, warped, damaged or mis-aligned calipers, leaking/seizing pistons or seals, or
occasionally worn wheel bearings.
I'm not familiar with bus calipers, are they full-floating? If so disassemble and clean/lubricate the guide pins, checking for uneven wear or
catching marks.
My guess is that would be the most likely culprit as your discs shouldn't have warped if they're only two years old, and you don't 'race' the
brakes. It will also give you a chance to check the physical condition of the calipers.
Keep in mind that Holden recommend machining every 20,000 kms on their Commodore discs, maybe newly manufactured rotors are similar. Check with the
rotor supplier for the manufacturers recommendation.
[ Edited on 17-3-2007 by sinecure ]
[ Edited on 17-3-2007 by sinecure ]
A POSSE AD ESSE.
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Learner
A.k.a.: Lionel Luu
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| posted on March 17th, 2007 at 09:51 PM |
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what type of pads do beetle use?
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aussiebaja
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| posted on March 18th, 2007 at 03:35 PM |
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brake pads
BETTER TO BE THOUGHT A FOOL THAN TO OPEN YOUR MOUTH AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT:puke
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CHADMYSTER
A.k.a.: Allan McGrath
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 10:36 AM |
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my daughters car is running ate type calipers. I pulled them apart on the weekend and found that the pads were glazed fairly badly even though they
had only done 200 or so k's. Filled the glaze off and touched up the leading and trailing edges. The calipers were clean as I reconditioned them when
I replaced the rotors etc. I also put some anti squeal paste on the back of the pads. So far so good. The pads may have glazed up due to the new
rotors. I also used some prepsol as suggested by barry to make sure the rotors were super clean. Fingers crossed.
Thanks all AL |
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aggri1
A.k.a.: Aurel Griesser
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| posted on March 20th, 2007 at 06:34 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by sinecure
| Quote: | Originally
posted by aggri1
Hmm, bugger. The brakes on my bus are squealing as well, and I replaced the rotors and pads and rear wheel cylinders two years ago only. Wasn't
very cheap. There's also a little pulsing during braking - that is usually a sign of worn discs isn't it?
I didn't think I was harsh on them! Machining discs already, grrr...
A.
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The 'pulsing' during braking is either going to be warped discs, warped, damaged or mis-aligned calipers, leaking/seizing pistons or seals, or
occasionally worn wheel bearings.
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I replaced all the vacuum lines between the carbies and the elbows to the brake booster and stuffs on the weekend. Wow, sure is nice now, she runs
smooth as! Anyway, the point is, the brakes have stopped pulsing and are now much firmer. I understand the latter (proper vacuum at the diaphragm),
but not why the pulsing has stopped. Perhaps it's just not noticeable now that the booster's doing more of the work...?
Anyway, for anyone wanting a cheap and easy thing to do which can be extremely beneficial (high return on investment!), replacing the vacuum lines is
a good thing to do.
Sorry that this is kinda off topic, just wanted to share!
Cheers, A.
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Bizarre
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| posted on March 20th, 2007 at 07:24 PM |
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Good stuff.
It will also be running a lot cooler as all those leaks will be making that motor run hot
Futue te ipsum!!!
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aggri1
A.k.a.: Aurel Griesser
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| posted on March 22nd, 2007 at 06:58 AM |
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Yeah I'll see about the temperature. It did get the hottest I have ever seen recently (before fix); just under 120*C on the oil temp (1). That was
going up a long hill after being on the freeway. Had me worried for a bit, but I checked the valves afterwards, and there was no change. The oil
itself 'looked' the same, for whatever that's worth. I will do the same drive again sometime and see how it compares.
I understand that 120*C is considered by some to be the upper limit of acceptability of oil temp. I haven't got a head temp gauge.
Cheers, A.
(1) Gauge was calibrated in boiling water and was spot on at 100*C, with a degree or two allowance for local atmospheric pressure and water purity
variations.
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