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posted on March 23rd, 2007 at 11:42 AM
new to forum and restoring....
Well I'm new to the forum *waves* hey eveyone! and also new to restoring, so far I've got along well with reading all the pages on here but now I'm
confused hehe.
I've had to bare metal alot of my '76 bus which I've treated with Deoxidine to protect, and then in the next week or so will prime.
But for the patches of surface rust, do I need to use anything on before Deoxidining? I've sanded it back.
Also where the rust has eaten through, there's 2 tiny bits I'm not cutting out so I've sanded all around, wire brused the excess off, but what's
the next steps?
Protect the rust with?
Then fiberglass the back bit, bog on the front, then deox and prime as normal?
Sorry I realise there's lots of questions but any help would be sooooo great.
Young girl in need of advise
pangalactic
A.k.a.: jeezus cheeses
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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posted on March 23rd, 2007 at 11:51 AM
Hi,
Im definitely not a proffesional body work/paint person but in my resto if there were bits that were rusty i either got it back to bare metal , or cut
it out and welded in new metal, used the dioxodine then primed, there shouldnt be any rust left to treat, otherwise it will just come back later. i
think hellbus is one person on the board who is a professional in this field, if u do a search under his name some good old posts should pop up.
good luck:thumb
Chris
[ Edited on 23-3-2007 by pangalactic ]
helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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Mad fabricator, paint and body
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posted on March 24th, 2007 at 09:17 AM
Hello and good on ya for having a go at your own repairs
Deoxidine is a phosphorous metal preparation. It doesn't actually stop rust or remove it, however the surface preparation it does, will remove
fingerprint type rust stains and prevent them from returning quickly before you paint the vehicle.
You are doing the right thing, and priming in a week or so.
If there is rust scale on the metal, it has to be completley removed. If it is inside pits, then a rust converter will be needed to convert the scale
stains that are inside the pits. It is a milky looking product and you wet the rust with water and brush it on to the rusted spots only. The water
draws the product in, converts the rust to a stable black-purple colour and that will hold it as long as it never gets wet again.
It is only something I would use in rust pits, and paint does not stick to large area's of it, so you will have to sand it all off leaving just the
product in the pits. This may mean you only have small matchhead spots of it left.
If you have holes through the metal, there is but only one way to repair. Metal replacement is the only way. Bronze, solder, lead, fibreglass, putty,
they are all only a coverup.
However if this is what you want to do, then fibreglass on the back and filler on the front may hide the holes for a few years.
If you are doing this method, do not use anything on the front over the holes that will go through the hole and come in contact with the fibreglass.
Products like wet deox could make the fibreglass fall off. Fibreglass only likes paint products and water.
Quote:
Originally
posted by n4t4l1e
Well I'm new to the forum *waves* hey eveyone! and also new to restoring, so far I've got along well with reading all the pages on here but now I'm
confused hehe.
I've had to bare metal alot of my '76 bus which I've treated with Deoxidine to protect, and then in the next week or so will prime.
But for the patches of surface rust, do I need to use anything on before Deoxidining? I've sanded it back.
Also where the rust has eaten through, there's 2 tiny bits I'm not cutting out so I've sanded all around, wire brused the excess off, but what's
the next steps?
Protect the rust with?
Then fiberglass the back bit, bog on the front, then deox and prime as normal?
Sorry I realise there's lots of questions but any help would be sooooo great.
Young girl in need of advise
posted on March 23rd, 2007 at 11:42 AM
