| [ Total Views: 856 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 63277 ] |
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 kombiute
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| posted on June 20th, 2007 at 10:24 AM |
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Dual Webbers on Standard 1600 ?
Hello all,
As the title states I'm considering putting a set of dual 40 idf's on a standard 1600, what sort of performance gains "if any" should I expect?
It going into my Dual Cab Ute 71
Also can you provide any suggestions to perhaps get a more preforamance with an extra $1000 to throw at it.
Thanks
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 barls
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| posted on June 20th, 2007 at 10:32 AM |
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personally i wouldnt go anything bigger than 36s on a stock 1600 but thats me. id be looking at cam, heads and extractors next
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 Bizarre
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| posted on June 20th, 2007 at 11:16 AM |
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32 vents and it will be fine
I use to run IDF 36's with 32 vents on a beetle (1303) and it was fine.
It was not as good as the webers on my 1776
About the same as my 34Pict's 1916
about 25% over stock - you WILL notice it if you set them up properly
As for "other" things - read here
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/mods.htm
Are you talking about splitting the case??
or bolt on.
Decent fully merged header - 1.4 rockers there are a few things
Futue te ipsum!!!
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kombiute
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 08:48 AM |
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Thank you, for the info.
Bizarre, thank you for the link, great info, if I crack the case, what sort of Cam and crank would you suggest.
Thanks again
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Bizarre
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 11:38 AM |
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Ahh.... here it all gets hard.
First
1) How fast
2) how many $$$ do you want to waste
If you change cam you will need betted head to benefit and you need better etc etc
A Counterweighted crank is needed if you are going to spin more than 5k revs.
You need a fairly good motor to do that
Cam choice is difficult as it affects so many other things.
A mild cam V Force AP2, Engle 110, Web Cam 118 will work fine with stock heads.
Ask more questions
Futue te ipsum!!!
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kombiute
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 12:25 PM |
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Thanks again Bizarre,
I have owened my 71 DC Ute for nearly 10 Years and plan to hold onto it for much longer. My Case has cracked, and I'm in the planning stages of the
new motor, but I'm going to have to act pretty quick.
-I have $3000 to throw at it.
-Surf plently, and the ute takes us up and down the coast on regular trips, so I want reliability with punch
I'm in 2 minds.
1. Purchase a new stock 1600 bottom end for $1900 and do the basic mods you kindly have suggested on the link, with my webber 40's
or
2. Purchase a alloy block and all the bits and pieces from scratch, but I need help with the pieces can you help? I can not do the assembly myself but
I have given indicative quotes of $700 to assemble
Any additional advise would be greatly appreciated,
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barls
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 12:30 PM |
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if you fill in your location someone may be near you to help
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kombiute
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 12:48 PM |
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Thanks,
I'm in Kingsford in East Sydney, have you a business?
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Bizarre
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 12:53 PM |
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If you cant do assembly yourself i would maybe stay away from Webers.
Webers are easily jetted but it does take time and "some" understanding
An easier option may be what i have
A 1916 (or 1776) with a stock carb and header.
Nice and simple - Would only cost say $500 - $750 ($250 machining and $250 extra for stock pistons and cylinders over stock cost)
New cases are $700ish.
Cam $150ish
Crank $50 for cleaning yours up to $500 for a new counterweighted.
P&C's $750 for 94's (1916)
Heads $250 to clean up yours to $1000
assembly $700
Adds up doesnt it
Futue te ipsum!!!
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barls
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 12:55 PM |
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i use to live out that way when i first came to sydney but that was 5 years ago. my old man has a shop up in taree. there are a couple of others here
in sydney that may be able to help you richard at vforce might be one
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Bizarre
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| posted on June 21st, 2007 at 12:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kombiute
Thanks,
I'm in Kingsford in East Sydney, have you a business?
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No - but i drink a lot with Richard at V Force at Mortlake (Concord way)
Either pop over some time (late arvos are better - even Fridays - more time to "chat" ) or call him, 0408 991 247 or 9743 1247
Richard as some stuff laying round that he may be able to help you with
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on June 24th, 2007 at 07:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
If you change cam you will need betted head to benefit and you need better etc etc
A Counterweighted crank is needed if you are going to spin more than 5k revs.
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Standard heads are fine with cam upgrades. Plenty of hypo motors using standard unmodified 040 heads.
And the standard crank is fine to spin to 6200rpm all day every day if the motor is built by the right builder. The forged vw crank is one of the best
in the world.:thumb
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Joel
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| posted on June 26th, 2007 at 10:41 AM |
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what he said^^
its mainly standard valve springs that are rev limiters
-Joel
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kombiute
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| posted on June 29th, 2007 at 11:22 AM |
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Hello Craig, Thanks for the info, I'm thinking of getting an Empi Alloy case allready machined for 1776, I will look into getting the forged crank,
what sort of Cam would you suggest ? Engle?
As I'm building the motor from scrath ie: purchasing indiviual pieces, can anyone suggest a purchase list? and finally, who would be a suggested
builder in the Sydney area?
Thanks again
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