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Author: Subject:  Ratio rockers and hydralic lifters
MemberIan Bugden
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posted on July 5th, 2007 at 05:30 PM
Ratio rockers and hydralic lifters


Hi,
I am looking at getting one the those VW of mexico brand new engine for my '67. These engines use hydraulic lifters in them and I would like to fit 1.25 ratio rockers to it as well as a set of dual carbs and a phat fat exhaust. I already have the carbs and exhaust. Can ratio rockers be fitted to a engine that has the Hydraulic lifters??

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Ian.




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posted on July 5th, 2007 at 05:56 PM



yep why not

the tappet gap is the only thing that the Hydraulics are used for and once its set it dosent move so the rocker at the end wont matter what ratio it is




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posted on July 5th, 2007 at 08:37 PM



The following is taken from here

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/mods.htm 

"e recommend 1.4 rockers (which DO work on stock engines). 1.25 rockers give you almost no gain for your work; waste of effort. 1.25's work well with some high performance cam shafts but you have to know what you're doing! 1.4's will really wake up a stock engine, especially if it's a dual port, and if you have additional carburetion"




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posted on July 6th, 2007 at 07:01 PM



ok...i have k dogs on a stock, (i think) DP1600 you reckon 1.4 ratio is the go? opens her up....so to speak!



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posted on July 6th, 2007 at 07:12 PM



your talking $400 for rockers plus new push rods and setting up the geometry.

Not cheap but makes a difference




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posted on July 6th, 2007 at 07:45 PM



geometry?



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posted on July 6th, 2007 at 10:12 PM



Hi

I had 1.4s on my old Wasserboxer, I bent some pushrods and for a short time I went back to stock rockers, it was like driving with only 3/4 throttle, go the 1.4s.

Steve
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posted on July 7th, 2007 at 08:02 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 4tune8
geometry?


Read here

http://www.superbeetles.com/performance101/aug.htm 

Because they move through a different arc you need to shorten your push rods toget the correct lift




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posted on July 7th, 2007 at 08:08 AM



with 1.4s you will have to pull the heads off the engine and machine the valve guides down so the springs dont bind as well



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posted on July 9th, 2007 at 02:33 PM



1.4's seem to much work. How does a hydraulic lifter work anyway? I know how a solid lifter works.

What is involved with the swap? do you buy 1.25's already on a arm and you swap them or do you just get the rockers and have to set the arm up yourself?




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posted on July 9th, 2007 at 02:46 PM



I reckon you are going to do the geometry for 1.25's as well.

If you are going - go 1.4's

You buy the whole rocker complete - but it is the rods that are the hard part




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posted on July 9th, 2007 at 04:55 PM



you need new push rods cut to the correct length according to the way the rocker travels through its arc against the valve stem

Its something you need someone who has done the job before set up also you need to look at the rocker against the valve n nake sure it dosent bind anywhere






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