| [ Total Views: 4174 | Total Replies: 23 | Thread Id: 65717 ] |
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 garycookson
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| posted on October 22nd, 2007 at 11:11 AM |
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Bought A Syncro
Hi all, thought you might like to see some images of a Syncro camper i've recently bought. It's an 87 buit in the UK and been in Oz since 89 when it
was privately imported. Has an Autohomes camper conversion and a 1.6 turbo diesel engine. Oh and dual diff locks!
Needs new tyres as they are non matching (same size) and a new VC I imagine. The diff locks don't seem to operate but probably just lack of use and
old tubing.
It's going to be keeping me busy no doubt.
Anyone got a set of nice rims that would fit? Anyone want to buy the bullbar?
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on October 23rd, 2007 at 08:41 PM |
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Shit i am jealous.
Nice score even if it has it's bad points.
Looks in very good nic from here.
Do me a favour and look into the possibility of VC removal and shaft installation, will need a de-coupler for this to work but here in OZ it may
proove to be a better option.
Is it running on 16's?
What about these?????
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Audi-5-spoke-alloy-wheels-and-pirelli-tyres_W0QQitemZ3...
I have finally arranged to throw the Front/Rear diffs in myn, happenening on the 5th of next month.
Andrew
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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vwjon
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| posted on October 23rd, 2007 at 10:00 PM |
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nice syncro, ex-uk?? looks like a brit van!
i've got a couple of sets of merc rims for sale, but i'm way over the other side! if you'r intending to go bush i'd keep the bar, it will save
your lights etc!
if you need any advice just give me a shout! cheers jon
3 1959 cadillacs
1 musso
2 early notchbacks
2 split kombis
2 split panels
1 split ute
1 low light panel
1 ex-pmg bay
1 country buggy
1 beetle ute
1 14" syncro caravelle
1 16" syncro doka
1 golf cabrio
1 vw camper trailer
2 3meter bombs
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garycookson
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| posted on October 24th, 2007 at 09:51 AM |
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Hi guys
Thanks for the nice comments. The photos are making it look better than it is. I have got to get all the knackered stickers off the sides as they are
all cracked and peeling, not sure how though. Gently with a heat gun i guess. Then it needs a good polish. Not too worried about the dents as long as
any bare metal is covered.
I've had a couple of offers for wheels over on the Yahoo syncro forum, one with a set of BF Goodrich All terrains which would look good but they are
up in NSW and i'm in Melbourne. Got to find a way of moving them. It just has stock 14s on it with road tyres.
Jon, yes it is a UK van, came out here with its first owner in 89 so at least it missed out on the UK winter for most of its life. I'm a Brit too so
it seems kind of appropriate. Speedo is in MPH and i've also got a Beetle with a MPH speedo but just coincidence, but all helps convince my aussie
wife that i have some problem!
Andrew i've read up on the whole decoupler versus VC issue and the only advantage seems to be better performance on sand with the solid shaft. Busman
has recon VCs for $850 Aus equivalent and the decoupler unit is about the same but you have to take off the gearbox nose and send that to him. I will
check it out more carefully.
First job i need to do is sort the wheels as i'm sure the ones on it are different sizes by a small margin. I did feel a bit of binding on the way
back after a long run but there was nothing i could do. I let it cool down and carried on. I figure the VC has gone passive as any binding was fairly
slight. It only happened after i pulled in to a service station for a rest after i'd been running for some hours up some big hills and everything was
pretty hot. When i came to drive away that's when it all felt a bit tight.
I want to drop the oil out of the transmission and front box as the previous owner has been topping up the trans with some thick oil. I doubt it was
the correct synthetic stuff. Where did you source yours from? I scored a Bentley with the car so i assume that has the specs for the oil?
The steering is very pretty heavy (non power though) so i'm not sure if that is related to the VC.
The engine is a bit lacking in power as you'd expect but it sounds smooth and was rebuilt 25k miles ago and a new turbo recently. I just thought i'd
try and lose as much weight as i can (hence the bull bar going) which would all help. Maybe i'll keep it ready for a bush trip.
Cheers, will update on progress. Gary
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vwjon
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| posted on October 24th, 2007 at 07:44 PM |
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gary. its very important VERY IMPORTANT that you use GL5 oil in the front box, GL4 will screw it up. you must use GL4 in the main box(rear) as GL5
will destroy the synchro mesh thingys. penrite is what i'm using, its not cheap but it does do what it should!
round town i remove my propshaft, it saves such alot of wear n tear on EVERYTHING. 10mins and its back on again.
have a look at club 80-90 site. jon
3 1959 cadillacs
1 musso
2 early notchbacks
2 split kombis
2 split panels
1 split ute
1 low light panel
1 ex-pmg bay
1 country buggy
1 beetle ute
1 14" syncro caravelle
1 16" syncro doka
1 golf cabrio
1 vw camper trailer
2 3meter bombs
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on October 24th, 2007 at 08:41 PM |
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Oils are as thick as they come.
Go the good stuff REDLINE oils are the goods 4litres is about 120big ones, but the service life of the full synthetic is 200-400,000 K's. It will
most likely outlast the box.
Dont stuff about here buy the best, REDLINE is the best, yes the big 5 petrol companies make good stuff but they all work out at about 30+ bucks a
litre. Redline is worth the effort of chasing it....
I disagree with Jon on this point of running only GL5 in the front, i have read no articles on the WWW stating that not running a GL5 graded oil will
screw the front diff. The only article is attached and it states that a GL5 should be used in cases of wear, or something similiar.
Even VW uses GL4 all round I cant understand why the front needs a different oil as to the rear i mean they are running the same brass and metals
internally and the VC is it's own sealed unit.
Unless Jon has personal experience?
Many Syncro's around the world use GL4 all round, with no ill effects and the GL5 is often a heavier weighted oil..
As for dumping the oil, buy yourself a 17mm in-hex socket for the appropriate drive saves alot of strain, about 22bucks give or take.
http://www.redlineoil.com.au/home.asp
Article below made up my mind on which diff oil to run after digressing and overthinking the subject.
http://users.rcn.com/derekdrew/vanagon/viscous_couplings_vanagon_syncro.htm
As for the Nose cone and Shaft issue, i am sure there was someone in Aus, what about Rudi Purkhart(?) Syncro Box GURU. 
He maybe able to shed some more light on exactly where u can obtain one fromm without exchanging the nose cone. R u aware that are two versions of the
de-coupler unit and i think Rudi was working on his own....
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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garycookson
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| posted on October 25th, 2007 at 10:07 AM |
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Hey guys, thanks for all the info.
Found a Burson Autoparts round the corner who are a Redline stockist so i'll order some. I read somewhere about not overfilling the transaxle to
avoid blowing seals. I assume that Bentley has the quantities needed.
According to the Redline info GL5 is a higher pressure oil. I'll do some more reading , so much to get through.
Found the quantities on the 80-90 site ta!
I've started a big shopping list!
Cheers
Gary
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on October 25th, 2007 at 04:18 PM |
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Rear refill is 4.5ltr from totally empty.
Otherwise i think it is 3ltr top up as 1.5ltrs cannot be drained off without taking the gearbox out and disambling it.
But if u are adding a full synthetic oil.
Front diff is 1.5ltrs empty.
I would advise to removing or somehow raising the vehicle so u can get as much of the old crap out as possible and measure it so as to guesstimate how
much. Following?
Mineral and synthetic oils dont mix nicely, Different molecules and all that.
Want more pressure use the GL4 Shockproof oils from redline cost a bit xtra though.
Price outways the need for such an oil though, my pov.
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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vwjon
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| posted on October 25th, 2007 at 06:52 PM |
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hi guys, yes the front diff DOES have differen metal in it, the GL4 "dissolves" the bronze/brass stuff in the front diff.
my syncro had gl4 in ( the last owner was very pleased he'd done all the oils!) and when we stripped it the bearing carriers or something were all
pitted like they had been shot blasted.
go have a look on the "brickyard" website, click the info link, its all there!
the thumb of rule for filling in australia is 10mm BELOW the filler plug, cos its hotter here you need more expansion space. a guy called phil lander
has a web page theres some info on there thats good for aus! dunno if he's on here, if so hiya phil, i got my permit to ship my syncro now!!
cheers jon
3 1959 cadillacs
1 musso
2 early notchbacks
2 split kombis
2 split panels
1 split ute
1 low light panel
1 ex-pmg bay
1 country buggy
1 beetle ute
1 14" syncro caravelle
1 16" syncro doka
1 golf cabrio
1 vw camper trailer
2 3meter bombs
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garycookson
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| posted on October 26th, 2007 at 09:24 AM |
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Hi Jon
I did some reading on the draining thing and i think it is half a litre that remains in the box. Now this is a bugger because as you say mineral oils
and synthetic don't mix well. I don't think i want to drop the box that's for sure. I'll work on putting in a shade under 4 litres to allow for
expansion. Now i'll have to read up on if it is possible to drain the last bit.
I think i'll stick GL5 in the front just to be safe.
It is going to need a new VC (or ss and decoupler) so i'll try and do it all in one go.
I've read Phil Lander's pages as well as most others at one stage. So much info.
I seem to remember reading your trouble bringing your syncro out from the UK. Was it because it was an 89 and on the cusp of ADR issues or something?
How did you solve it?
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on October 26th, 2007 at 04:48 PM |
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Heya jon
Is it possible that the front diff was already shot before the previous owner added the new oil in your vehicle?
Or maybe that the damage was already done before you got it and the newer GL4 syn oil just helped by way of disguising or prolonging the lifespan of
front diff? Know what i mean??
Just curious as i cant see how an oil made of the same synthetic technology, just different pressure grading can have such an ill effect on one diff
but not the other.
I mean it's not like there is anything different in a GL4 to a GL5; or is there?
A description of shot blasted gear carriers and such, is almost like there was some kind of an explosion at one point or another and the remainders
were still floating around.
Cheers
Andrew
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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vwjon
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| posted on October 26th, 2007 at 08:23 PM |
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hi gary, yes i had heaps of trouble sorting a permit to ship cos of the adr, and the fact i bought the vw from sweden and not owned it ( proof of use
and ownership for min 12months) and not regestering it in the uk. but i've got the papers now. its a complicated but its done now.
hi andrew,gl5 and gl4 have different chemicals for longevity under pressure. the front and rear boxes have different bronze carriers to cope with the
different oils. i'm not 100% sure if this applies to 100%synthetic oils but having seen the damage of "disolving" carriers i really wouldn't risk
it. front diffs dont grow on trees you know!
there was no explosion ir shattered bearings etc, its just the carriers kind of disolve, the result is they look like they have been shot blasted all
over, the metal just dissappears into the oil, its possible the damage was done before, but the guy who did my box said he'd seen similar things
before from using the wrong oils.
3 1959 cadillacs
1 musso
2 early notchbacks
2 split kombis
2 split panels
1 split ute
1 low light panel
1 ex-pmg bay
1 country buggy
1 beetle ute
1 14" syncro caravelle
1 16" syncro doka
1 golf cabrio
1 vw camper trailer
2 3meter bombs
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on October 26th, 2007 at 08:36 PM |
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Cool.
So what ur saying is that previous oil used wasn't a full synthetic?
Dont suppose you know if the oil the previous owner ran was semi syn or full mineral etc?
I caught up with an elderly gent a month back (90Syncro) and he informed me that all the fluids in the vehicle were original and that he didnt see the
point of replacing fluids as VW manual said he didnt need to. Yes i know....
I have filled up both diffs with the Redline full synthetic GL4 75/90, so i am not really needing the extra stress, but i suppose it is only a machine
after all and all machines will give u some trouble eventually.
No disrespect in calling the Syncro a machine, just a descriptive word.
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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garycookson
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| posted on November 9th, 2007 at 04:05 PM |
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Hello chaps
Any advice on tyres?. I've been trying to get some 15" rims without success so i thought i'd just get some new tyres for the standard 14s but none
of the tyre places have anything in an all terrain pattern. Closest i've got is Dunlop Adventurers in 185/14. BF Goodrichs don't come in 14 inch
apparently.
What you guys runnin?
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vwjon
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| posted on November 9th, 2007 at 05:10 PM |
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i'm running 15's, have you tried to buy any mercedes rims?? i can recomend dunlop sp-lt5 on a 14" tyre, they have a wide tread pattern which will
clean easy when mud driving.
ok? cheers jon
3 1959 cadillacs
1 musso
2 early notchbacks
2 split kombis
2 split panels
1 split ute
1 low light panel
1 ex-pmg bay
1 country buggy
1 beetle ute
1 14" syncro caravelle
1 16" syncro doka
1 golf cabrio
1 vw camper trailer
2 3meter bombs
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garycookson
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| posted on November 9th, 2007 at 08:50 PM |
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I've had a look around for merc steel rims but not found any. There are alloys from Audi A6/8 around but they need spacers and replacement studs to
get the offset right. I'd rather not have to change them and prefer steels really.
I'd like to get a tyre that is good on road as that is about where they will be getting 90% of their use but have a chunky off-road look purely so
they look good!
I'll check out the Dunlops, thanks Jon
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modulus
A.k.a.: Peter Hill
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| posted on November 9th, 2007 at 09:45 PM |
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Mercedes 15" steel rims come up frequently on ebay, like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VW-KOMBI-15X6-LIGHTWEIGHT-RIMS-5_W0QQitemZ200168892766...
or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VW-KOMBI-15X6-5-3-15X7-2-RIMS-5_W0QQitemZ200168892773Q...
or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/15-mercedes-rims-to-suit-t2-kombi-x-5-with-a-t-tyres_W...
Just search on ebay for "kombi" parts.
hth
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on November 11th, 2007 at 02:50 PM |
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Heya Gary check this out I had too look twice
http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/VOLKSWAGEN/KAMPER/details.aspx?_...
746+0+518+557+834+285+257&Make=VOLKSWAGEN&state_id=0&trecs=16
Oh and the steelies shown in above link/above post will more than likely need longer studs. but i have them on my Syncro and they look the goods.
Steel is a bit thin though. offsett is a 37(?), not sure.
Merc rims are the cheapest way to go as AUDI is a small centre bore, but sometimes u get lucky and find a set built for the T3.
Cheers
Andrew
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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garycookson
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| posted on November 12th, 2007 at 08:39 AM |
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Thanks Andrew and Peter for the links and tips, those are the ones i've seen fitted to other syncros, that's what i'm after. The steel does look a
bit thin though. I wonder what the load rating is?
One of the guys from the yahoo group has loaned me a set of 14s with matching tyres which i'll put on tonight so i can at least drive it around
without worrying about the VC even though it probably is stuffed.
Andrew, that link was for my van but has gone now i think.
Did you get your syncro box in and working?
Gary
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on November 12th, 2007 at 04:43 PM |
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Cant be your van; can it?
I only just searched for it must not have removed it from listings yet..
As for load rating on the rims i cant say for certain as myn is in the shop, But all mercs weigh more at each corner than a syncro so load rating is
really non applicable, know what i mean? Steel on these rims is ok it's just not as thick as the VW Original steel rims.
AUDI too many mods needed to fit them.
The Brickyard has a really good rundown of whats useable and whats not...
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/
Cant remember which one it was but have a sus.
Boxes are in and everything has been given the once over rebuilt slave cylinder, overhaul of CV joints and new boots and more. I know it looks the
goods even if it is only sitting straight(motor and box).
The other rim option is VW passatt(!) or Bora(?)
Again load rating is a non issue; There are some nice Passatt rims around i think speedline do T3 rims but bloody pricey. or again Merc ML rims but
here is where it is up to the individual, what size 15" or 16"; 6.5" is really as wide as u go if u want to have some space between the suspension
and tyres. But then again 7" inch will squeeze in there...
Really it doesnt matter what option u undertake as longer wheel studs are going to be needed.
Andrew
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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garycookson
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| posted on November 13th, 2007 at 12:10 PM |
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Do you really need longer studs for the merc steels? Surely a steel rim is the same sort of thickness?
I'm keen to go for 15s as the tyre choice is much greater. I had read the brickyard thing about wheels. I'm just going to hang on and see what turns
up. If i have to change the studs for steelies i might go for alloys as they are the same price on the secondhand market. Somehow i imagined that
wheels from a passenger car (like a merc or Audi) would not be as heavy duty as the Syncro would need. People fit Audi A4 wheels to Syncros but that
looks like a pretty small car by comparison?
I'm taking the beast into a VW specialist on Thursday to get them to give the transmission the once over. Got a bit of vibration happening as well as
the probably dud VC. The top balljoints on the front suspension have split rubbers so no doubt this is going to be painful!
Will let you know! Good to hear there is progress on your Syncro.
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on November 13th, 2007 at 05:22 PM |
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Progress;
There is life got him back from the Mechs shop today.
Ahh the purr.
And the feel of a nice tight gearbox almost like brandnew.
I wil have a sus at the studs but i know on myn i have wheel studs all round on all four corners. Where as stock(?) came with studs and lugs.
The Alloys split/crack/break alot easier and well most audi fitments are way out in the offsett; usually above 42, not too many are in the 30-39 range
of a stick T3. + steel can be bent heated whacked back into shape. Once alloys shot it's tolerances are shot along with it. Throw away items.
It's not the thickness of steel just the offsett is 37 compared to a stock 30(?) on a T3 rim. Ranges from 30-39, Steel vs factory Alloys.
Im not real keen on the Audi rims they look kinda cartwheelish. Plus too many mods needed then theres the spacer issue if u go above 39. Above 39 can
start all sorts of weird problems, i dont think we need anymore.
Done alot of homework on this.
Myself and another Dubsite member are purchasing, nuts, spacers, studs and conversion studs(front) from overseas as buying the whole lot here in Aus
is over 300+ bucks. I know trhe wheels studs themselves are worth 10.25 a pop(65mm) need 20 of them do the math.
If u go the 15's at least its a relative common size tyre.
Have a sus at US ebay for syncro parts, shit loads cheaper than oz and as the US has a cult following u get the good stuff.
Top ball joint is a home home job + tools..
So stoked that my baby is running, was very scarede that the negine may have been up the shit. But all is good no lifter noise or other, just the calm
rumble of a Wasserboxer motor. previous owner had already done the heads and installed stainless head studs. computer has been chipped, so all mods
are done.
Gotta get some more paint on him now and then rego.
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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garycookson
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| posted on November 14th, 2007 at 12:35 PM |
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I thought the stock setup was studs up front and bolts at the back but mine has studs all round also.
Good tip re the US ebay especially with the exchange rate in our favour at the moment. Thanks for the info on wheels, it does start getting to the
point where all the fun goes away. I've tried buying stuff for my beetle from the US but they are not keen on shipping or dealing with anyone who
isn't in the US. Maybe ebay will be easier.
Stock offset is 30, i saw it stamped on my rims last night.
Cheers
G
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Iwish4aSynchro
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| posted on November 14th, 2007 at 02:14 PM |
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Not entirely sure only going off the 2wheel drive.
maybe they came stock with studs all round and if so u may not need longer studs?
Ebay america is good for all things small and sometimes large as well.
99% of the time it is cheaper to shop over there even when adding the freight it is still cheaper than OZ. Just gotta make sure it is what is
needed.
I have also found a little shop in US that can do a true Hi flow cat and muffler + 4 flanges and muffler clamps for 510 or thereabouts. Just gotta
work out the freight. Looking at well above 1G in OZ and i cant see freight being 500bucks.
Stock offset os 30 then maybe i dont have longer wheel studs, meaning u wont need longer wheel studs because with the said Merc rims there is about
2-5mm of thread showing so nil stress about wheel coming off.
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
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