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 pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on November 10th, 2010 at 02:06 PM |
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any figures or dyno charts for the GTR yet? how does the stroker crank change the dynamics of the engine? I assume you aren't aiming for 9k launchs?
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 10th, 2010 at 02:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
any figures or dyno charts for the GTR yet? how does the stroker crank change the dynamics of the engine? I assume you aren't aiming for 9k launchs?
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No figures yet as the engine is still being run in, and tested. Regular plug checks and an oil sample is taken every time I drive the car.
Rod ratio drops from a factory 1.65 to 1.6. The rev limitor will be set at 8200. Its running a pair of HKS GTRS turbo's which flow near on 800hp
worth of air. The engine starts making boost a little below 2500 with a very mild tune. Ive got part of the project posted on the SAU website:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Project-Rb31dett-Devel-t314402.html
Thanks for the interest!
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reub
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on November 10th, 2010 at 03:26 PM |
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From one nutter to another... Cool!
Reub
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
A.k.a.: Brennden Alder
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
All people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the privilege
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Mood: What Kombi wants vs what Kombi gets are nowhere near the same...
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| posted on November 10th, 2010 at 06:16 PM |
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From building super fast Bugs to quickish Jap Taxi's. I know which one would certainly draw a bigger crowd mate!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 10th, 2010 at 06:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
From building super fast Bugs to quickish Jap Taxi's. I know which one would certainly draw a bigger crowd mate!!
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Yeah its the VW every time. Every time I take the bug out for a drive I end up talking to someone for about an hour about it somewhere. People are
just in shock when they see what has been done to it.
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volkdent
A.k.a.: Jason
Learner Dubber
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| posted on February 5th, 2011 at 08:04 PM |
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Any updates? Smoky burnouts? Laps? 1/4 mile stuff?
Thanks,
Jason
If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights....
2008 BMW 335i
2001 BMW M3 'Vert
1998 BMW M3 Sedan
1960 VW Bug Bad Dub Racing |
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
Scirocco Rare
6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
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Mood: Time to go Salt lake racing, and actually achieve a result.
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| posted on February 5th, 2011 at 10:10 PM |
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I hope you survived the cyclone ok ?
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 5th, 2011 at 10:26 PM |
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Yeah im still here. 2 days to cleanup after the cyclone, 3 days no power. 2 land slides, and blocked downpipes and underground plumbing to contend
with thanks to all the shredded leaves from the trees collecting on my roof. Fortunatly I didnt have any trees fall, as only 3 days prior I'd
finished having the last of the trees removed as I am completely re-vamping the house and yard, new landscaping etc.
Not a lot of updates with the bug to speak of. I needed a break from the car for a bit. Projects like this one turn into an all life consuming
obsession. Fortunatly I can switch to playing with the GTR for something different and then back to the bug when I get the motivation juices flowing
again.
I had started work on the car again about 4-5 weeks ago, and havfe re-designed and built a new turbo header. It is now close to an equal length
primary pipe from each port, and it also merges 1+3 and 2+4 as pairs. Ive used parts of the old system to drop the exhaust 90 degrees from the ports
downwards, and then the header bolts upwards to it to make fittment a lot easier to do. It took 3 attempts to get it right, but im now happy with the
result. I'll be lag wrapping the header instead of ceramic coating it this time. Its just a lot easier to do, and cheaper. The 90 degree dumps are
still ceramic coated though.
I got as far as starting the car and checking for leaks. Then the cyclone turned up and it hasnt stopped raining since. Last night and the night
before that we had some absurd amount of rain fall.and the roads are now pretty stuffed, not to mention pretty slippery.
I have sidelined my fancy instrumentation setup for the moment, but what is developed so far looks very cool. In the meantime ive added a DM200 PLX
devices gauge to the wideband system to provide a more readable AFR value when driving.
Thats all for now, till I get a chance to do a propper update.
Cheers,
Ian
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Flintstones
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| posted on February 6th, 2011 at 06:02 AM |
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glad family, house and cars are alright and that there wasn't too much devastation for you, compared to the images that are being broadcast on the
box
hope you get back up and running quickly
Cheers
D
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Ollie
A.k.a.: Ollie Clarke
Insano Dub Head
Yeah Buddy
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 11:35 AM |
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Where's this car gone?!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 12:00 PM |
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I've still got it and as of last weekend have started working on it again. I needed a break from it. I had also gotten very caught up in home
renovations and my Skyline GTR RB315DETT stroker engine project, which is for the most part finished now.
After a few more road trips in the bug I decided it was necessary to make some changes to the engine to make it a little more drivable. The
combination of the 911 gearing, the twin plate clutch and an engine that didnt idle below 1200 or produce usable torque below 2000 made it impossible
to drive in traffic. So the engine is now out of the car to undergo a few changes. I will be upping the compression and advancing the cam.
I'll be pulling off the heads off it this weekend, measuring up and ordering some new CP pistons with less dish (or possibly machining a little off
the current ones) this weekend. There is a stack of other changes I'll be making to the car when putting it back together as well. Some is just
tidying up, but also I've a few learned better ways of doing things in the last year.
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Turbo54
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 01:53 PM |
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Good to see progression or any sort and if you can't drive it you don't enjoy driving it.
Keep up with the pics once you have started again. How did the running boards turn out?
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on November 26th, 2011 at 04:48 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Turbo54
Good to see progression or any sort and if you can't drive it you don't enjoy driving it.
Keep up with the pics once you have started again. How did the running boards turn out?
T54
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Thats exactly it. And while the car did drive feel great on the road, it had no streetable manners at all. Having to get off and on the clutch 2-3
time to pull away from the lights so it wouldnt stall or spin the wheels was painful.
The project is now well underway again as of today. I have pulled and re-measured everything to calculated what needs to be changed to raise the
compression ratio.
I have also done away with the crank pully end trigger for the EFI system and have made some modifications to the flywheel to allow more accurate
triggering to be done from there. It also allows for the wiring loom to be better concealed.
Piston machining will be happening next week, followed by ceramic coating again. Pictures will be posted when it all starts coming together again.
Cheers,
Ian
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 7th, 2011 at 03:27 PM |
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A quick update.
No additional progress made with the engine as of yet but the parts have been ordered and will arrive in about 4 weeks.
I decided to not just settle for another set of custom pistons ore re-machining the existing ones, and have instead ordered a set of custom LN
Engineering Nickies with matched custom pistons.
The cylinders are setup with thick walls for turbo use and the pistons will bring the compression up to 8:1 and is allowing me to narrow the engine
about 3mm each side which will help with the pushrod tube sealing issues I was having too.
That is all for now.
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
A.k.a.: Brennden Alder
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
All people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the privilege
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| posted on December 7th, 2011 at 03:44 PM |
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Ooh Nickies!! You must post pics of those bad babies when they arrive!! Ultimate VW porn right there!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 05:02 PM |
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Update.
Its all starting to happen again. I've completely stripped the engine again now and am preparing for making some major changes.
The crank, flywheel, clutch, pulley, and pump drive are all in for machining and modification. I am removing the ring gear from the flywheel so just
the porsche positioned bolt on ring gear system will remain.
I am also having part of the number 2 main bearing and front counterweight modified, so that I can change end float and thrust setup to work from the
number 2 main bearing. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks.
Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and
details once its all done.
Ive had confirmation from LN Engineering that my pistons are being made by JE at the moment.
The case and MS230 heads are going to be sent down to Dave Butler soon to have the head stud arrangement altered to a custom configuration. Not T1 or
Oxy boxer pattern, but half way in between.
The new nickies cylinders use an Oxy boxer 100mm case end and a 104.5mm head end, and carry a 94mm piston. This retains the 2443cc capacity but
provides the necessary strength for boost.
The cylinder walls are 5mm thick at the head end, but the sealing area between the cylinder top and teh head is still the same as with a mahle
cylinder.
This will be done with either a step cut at the top of the cylinder, or Dave will mill a recess from 101.3 to 104.5mm when opening the heads out to
104.5mm.
That is all.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 05:04 PM |
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Cylinder data attached.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 07:48 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 2443TT
I am also having part of the number 2 main bearing and front counterweight modified, so that I can change end float and thrust setup to work from the
number 2 main bearing. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks.
Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and
details once its all done.
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Here are some ways that Keith did his, and i did one for a customer.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=59063&page=3#pid818721
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 08:15 PM |
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My mistake, I meant the Number 3 main. I did consider using something like Keith's setup but have decided to go another way.
Im going to move the radius on the number 3 main on the crank back further and up against the counterweight. I'll then surface the front of the
counterweight out to about 5mm so it will function as the new thrust surface. This gives me about 1.75mm of room to work with for setting up the
thrust area.
I'll then get a standard T1 rear main and remove 0.5mm from each side on the inside of the bearing so that it will fit the Number 3 bearing saddle,
and surface the side that goes against the crank to set the endfloat towards the front of the engine.
The cam drive pully will be machined back about 1.5-2mm,and to the inside diameter of the standard T1 rear main end float adjustment shims. This will
allow me to set the endfloat using standard parts. The bearing will also be slotted from the main oil gallery towards the crankshaft, so there will
be oil under pressure being forced to the thrust surface.
All the other bearings can be standard 2 piece 1/2 bearings and a conventional BMW center main keeping it simple.
The only disadvantage I can see is that I can't put a thrust/end float shim on the front of the crank, as the main journal will be radiused towards
the cranks counterweight.
So its similar to, but different from how Revmaster do their end float setups on their aircraft engines. They carry thrust on the bearing in a
different direction though, so thats the main difference.
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 08:19 PM |
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Just did a search for the revmaster setup and found what Im doing has already been done by someone else!
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snitz
Wolfsburg Wizard
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Location: Adelaide.. the defect and taser state..
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 10:11 PM |
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Never clicked on this thread before but 2 hours later..
I couldn't stop until I read the whole thread..Absolutely Awesome!!.. Kudos to you on an awesome build. The time I spent looking through this thread
has nothing on the time and effort you have spent on this build.. Enjoy the car
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coletrickle
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on December 21st, 2011 at 08:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 2443TT
. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was
substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all
done.
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Hi Ian,i was wondering if you could put up a pic of the flaking coating on the bearing?Can you flake off any more of the coating and measure the
thickness of the flake or measure the bearing on the coated area then the flake area and see what thickness the coating is.The coating should only be
1/2 thou not much more than that.Also did you have the bearings coated before you had your case and crank set up or after?Just trying to figure out
why the coating failed?Did you send the bearings to the northside or southside of bris?
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 21st, 2011 at 09:55 AM |
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The coating is extremely thin, definatly about a 1/2 a thou as you can't feel the edge of the coating from where it has come off the bearing. The
end float was set to 8 thou, and then the bearings were sent away and coated. My guess is that the coatings adhesion to the bearing surface
failed.
I can't recall exactly who did the coatings. It might have been competition coatings, or someone else. It was too long ago. I'll post up a pic
when I get a chance.
Cheers,
Ian
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 21st, 2011 at 05:28 PM |
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Here are the pics of half of old thrust bearing.
Where the coating has been rubbed off the height difference has got to be barely 1/2 a thou.
Im now trying to source some Porsche 914/Type 4 thrust shims.
The latest "revised" plan is to put a 1mm step towards the counterweight above the radius off the the number 3 main journal. The three 914 shims
will then sit on this step, and run against the standard T1 thrust bearing.
The cam gear will still be cut back a little and will have a couple of T1 thrust shims put on it. This combined with a slotted bearing that will
force oil to the thrust surfaces will see the end of this issue.
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66deluxe
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 22nd, 2011 at 11:58 AM |
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Ian CSP sells new endplay shims for type 4 they even have .38mm ones also. I got a few sets couple weeks back.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 22nd, 2011 at 12:22 PM |
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Yep I have contacted them and pelican parts, to try and get freight for 3 shiims to be less than $40. Fixed price website freight is a little
excessive...
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66deluxe
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 22nd, 2011 at 12:49 PM |
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I want to get an upright conversion kit for type 4 off them maybe i could add them to my order and then post them up to you.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 22nd, 2011 at 01:06 PM |
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Thanks for the offer. Im searching for alternatives from other manufacturers though to find a quick local solution.
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 matberry
Super Moderator
Go hard or go home
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| posted on December 22nd, 2011 at 01:47 PM |
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I have some new in stock, I'll check what size.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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2443TT
A.k.a.: Ian
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 22nd, 2011 at 01:50 PM |
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Thanks Matt. The thinner the better. I believe the thinnest is 0.24mm or 10 thou. I'll be setting the end float by machining the bearing still,
the shims are just going to be for thrust load spreading.
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