| [ Total Views: 1038 | Total Replies: 8 | Thread Id: 66664 ] |
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 n4t4l1e
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| posted on December 22nd, 2007 at 03:45 PM |
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just a quick one...
Just at the stages of painting
So far the process
De-ox
Etch prime
Epoxy prime
Then...
I can only smooth, sand and fill (if needed) ontop of the epoxy? Hence why I use the epoxy as etch is stickier and you can't sand or put bog ontop of
this?
Is this correct?
Just wasn't sure about etching and epoxying and why I should do both.
Thanks in advance
Nat
x
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n4t4l1e
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| posted on March 19th, 2008 at 03:55 PM |
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? Nothing? 
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type3kid
A.k.a.: Aaron
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 09:02 AM |
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i am replying to bump your thread so you can get an answer. i have no idea so right now i'm as useless as boobs on a bull!! hope the bump helps.
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 matberry
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 09:30 AM |
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The bump did help.
You need the etch to properly bind to the metal, then the epoxy primer provides a substrate that your fillers and paints will adhere to. (Make sure
all your products are compatible) I would even recommend sticking with one brand these days for this reason.
I was told this just days ago by the BRS rep, whom I have known for 25 years, he has just become a paint rep after owning/running/working in a panel
shop since before I met him. (get the idea, he has lots of expierience)
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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5PL1TDCS10N
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 08:23 PM |
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Body filler needs to be done on bare metal but if you just want to straighten a panel then a hi-build primer will suffice. Make sure you have the
correct gun setup for shooting primers(1.8-2.0 tip). Paint is usually 1.4. This is all depending on what brand so get a tech sheet from the paint rep.
I also recomm. using a complete paint system(everything from one brand or as recomm. by paint store)
This is how I personally do it but I am self taught. Helbus and Alan(Dasdubber)know alot more.
1: Baremetal- Do rust repair.
2: Treat with Rust Convertor. Leave for a day or two. Then clean surface throughly.
3: Spot repair big repairs w body filler
3: Epoxy Etch Primer
4: High Build Primer
5: Primer Surfacer(which usually is a thinned down version of step 4)
6: Guide coat-sand and repeat step 4 or 5 if ness.
7: Base coat
8: Clear coat
This is a very very rough guide btw so hope it helps-Wayne
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matberry
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| posted on March 20th, 2008 at 08:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
The bump did help.
You need the etch to properly bind to the metal, then the epoxy primer provides a substrate that your fillers and paints will adhere to. (Make sure
all your products are compatible) I would even recommend sticking with one brand these days for this reason.
I was told this just days ago by the BRS rep, whom I have known for 25 years, he has just become a paint rep after owning/running/working in a panel
shop since before I met him. (get the idea, he has lots of expierience)
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I should have then said, anyone with more trade expierence please correct me if required.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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n4t4l1e
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| posted on June 3rd, 2008 at 02:52 PM |
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Firstly thank you for the bump
And for the info supplied! Fantastic help!
Will crack on soon and see how I go, will no doubt be back! As I'm grinding and welding at the moment :S
Thanks heaps peeps 
Nat
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on June 3rd, 2008 at 05:51 PM |
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matberry has it pretty right. We do mostly $100K plus resto's at my work, and we do
- Bare metal by abrasive blasting
- All metal repairs, rust, lead wiping etc.
- Secondary abrasive blast, as sometime 2-3 months of metal repairs means surface rust again.
- Etch prime
- 2 Part epoxy
- Filler
- Prime
- Putty
- Prime
- Paint
Usually the body is fully rubbed down about 20 times along the way with various grits of sandpaper.
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n4t4l1e
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| posted on June 5th, 2008 at 10:51 AM |
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ace thanks hell bus.
Loads of help and really appreciate it
Nat
x
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