| [ Total Views: 1237 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 68414 ] |
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 Mowog
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| posted on April 5th, 2008 at 07:42 PM |
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Rusted seal retaining lips and at rear window
Hi all.
I just collected a 72 1300 Beetle from a fellow forum member, which I've promised to restore if economically possible.
Apart from rust in the usual places, floorpan, bottom of front wheelarches, immediately next to the heater inlet tubes under the rear seat etc etc.
the other rust causing me concern is the bonnet lid seal & engine cover seal retaining lips are badly rusted, and either side of the rear window,
down to the air intake louvres and out to the rain gutter are fairly badly bubbled and blistered.
Can anyone please help with some advice on these problems?
I've gone through several websites, but none have listed replacement seal retainers. Are they available anywhere, & if not do I have no choice
but to replace entire panels?
Can anyone advise on how to tackle the rust at the rear window.
Thanks. Scotty.
[size=4]A pessimist is never disappointed![/size]
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Joel
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| posted on April 6th, 2008 at 08:24 AM |
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those strips are rust traps anyway cos of the sealer over the joint the factory used
if ur not worried about a 100% authentic resto what i do on any bug that has rust under them is rip them off completely, grind down the welds and
either stick some weather stipping foam on there or get mexican style seals which clip onto the lip on the bonnet and decklid
this way also gives a much cleaner look too
whilst ur doing the repairs around the rear window make sure to scrape out all the expanding foam thats inside there
thats the reason it has rusted in the first place
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on April 6th, 2008 at 10:58 AM |
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thats good advice..
My beetle had some small holes under the rear window rubber
My Son brazed them up for Me...
between the rear window and gutter
cut out all the rusted metal then weld new metal back in
or use putty [bog] to fill the gap...
and pull the strips off that hold the rubber seal on the bonnet and engine lid
and then replace them with Mexican look seals
vintage Vee Dub have these..
cheers
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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cam070
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on August 11th, 2009 at 06:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
whilst ur doing the repairs around the rear window make sure to scrape out all the expanding foam thats inside there
thats the reason it has rusted in the first place
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Does anyone sell a rust repair panels for that section? From my experience all the later beetles rust through there due to the vent and the foam.
Also, should you replace the foam with something else afterwards? If so with what?
Doesn't it act as a barrier to sound and exhaust fumes?
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on August 11th, 2009 at 07:09 PM |
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In regards to brazing (bronze) on any rust holes, I will give some experience here. Don't do it, if you want to fix the rust properly. The heat and
more so the flux used accelerates future rust problems. It rusts quicker than fibreglass.
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greasykitchen
A.k.a.: Stephen
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| posted on August 11th, 2009 at 07:38 PM |
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That's my old bug in the original post. I wonder if it's being restored or wrecked?
'76 Golf
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cam070
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on August 11th, 2009 at 07:42 PM |
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Sorry, I wasn't asking about brazing. I was wanting to know if anyone made a c-pillar rust repair panel. Any ideas on the best way to repair this
section?
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on August 11th, 2009 at 08:43 PM |
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Have a look at this website Cip1
http://www2.cip1.com/
They have the seal channels as a straight length that you bend and weld to suit front or rear. I would not be surprised if they have the C pillar
sections also.
The best way to repair the section is to cut out all of the rust affected metal, weld the new section in place, and after finishing, ensure you seal
inside where the welding took place, by squirting a rust preventative on the back of the bare welds. Fish oil or body cavity wax.
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