| [ Total Views: 3889 | Total Replies: 33 | Thread Id: 68689 ] |
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 Cam
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 posted on April 22nd, 2008 at 07:01 PM |
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Notchback... resto (in paint at long last!)
I'm sure that we have all been here before...
I had some holidays early this year and decided I needed a new daily driver, deciding that my KG was never going to see daily use (and deserves more
appropriate restoration skills than I can offer) I purchased a project notch with the idea of doing a quick 4 week turn around.
After stripping that car down and finding ample amounts of rust and repaired accident damage I ended up scoring a '65(?) partially disassembled but
still rolling and with quite a bit of work already done.
Now we're a couple of months down the track and the quick turn around has become a full on, bare bones resto... with a few mods for good measure
I've uploaded some pics to my facebook album which I'll attempt to link to here. However, I'm absolutely crap at taking in depth photos along the
way and seem to always forget until after I've completed the job at hand.
Anyway... Hope you all enjoy the show, feel free to ask questions and add feedback as I go along.
I've been really enjoying working on this car, it's only been a few hours here and there max, but I find it somewhat like mindful meditation and
good for stress relief. So have decided to just take my time and not put a time limit on this one 
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Cam
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| posted on April 22nd, 2008 at 07:05 PM |
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As it arrived, yet untouched by moi:
Rear parcel shelf & air intake vents repair:
These cars ALWAYS rust in this area, fortunately for me the previous owner had already done the necessary repairs, along with making allowances for
use of pop-out rear side windows - I'm yet undecided if pop outs are best for a daily driver or not.
Shadowy shot:
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Cam
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| posted on April 22nd, 2008 at 07:13 PM |
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This section needed repairing, fortunately I had the other notch with a good drivers side sill.
After the repairs were done. As I said, I'm crap with taking photos, so this had to be cropped out of a photo that I took of my cat. This repair was
tedious to say the least, I had to split the donor sill into 3 pieces: lower lip, inner sill & outer sill, before welding it all back onto this
car.
RHS in etch. This sill was in good condition so needed no real work to the outside other than a strip back & inspect. The front dogleg needed
repairs on the bottom & inside tho.
Here you can see some of the welding done to the front of the car. Bottom of the A pillar had a hole & needed some attention. As did the two 17mm
corner bolts. The latter I used a section from a donor car and even the outer skin.
You can also see the triangular repair done just as the body curves - this was uncovered under about a foot of filler and was a turd of a job to
repair! I spent ages finding spotwelds, drilling, dremelling and welding from both sides! Keen eyes will also note my attempt at using seam sealer on
this area to replicate what the factory did originally... needless to say, it's alot harder (and messier) than it appears.
All of these sections I left the welds in all their ugly glory, it's not pretty, but honest and also can't hurt in regards to strength.
I have also completed the chassis, so will endeavour to post across some pics later on tonight.
Cheers,
Cam
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Cam
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| posted on April 23rd, 2008 at 01:21 AM |
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Here is the work I have done so far on the chassis:
The original chassis had been covered with what looked like silicon at some stage in it's life. When I started peeling it all away there was pitting
and pinholes damned near everywhere, so I decided to let some cutting & grinding wheels resolve the situation.
I left quite a lot of the original floor in place, this guaranteed that I wouldn't get too carried away doing the initial cutting & removal. The
part of the pan that runs under the rear seat is yet to have the spot welds undrilled in the above shot.
Keen viewers will also not that the chassis now has twin solid lines. I bought a good late model auto chassis for the floor and once the tunnel was
cut away took a template of the return line route and copied it onto the early chassis.
I then pulled the original tiny solid line and replaced it with a larger line (both feed & return are now 8mm solid) along the standard route. I
also noticed that the clutch tube had broken one of it's welds so sorted that and took to opportunity to fit a new shift rod bushing.
A few people might be unaware that the pan "inserts" on the type 3's are actually a single 'pan that runs along the whole underside of the
chassis, hence the tunnel being fully exposed when removed.
Here is the floor from the automatic chassis when first removed with all it's spot welds drilled out. The pedal assembly, rear seat divider_thingy
and rear subframe mount from the early chassis have stayed in place, to make life a bit easier.
It looks ugly with all the surface rust but is solid as hell and will clean up nicely.
Part way through doing all the spot welds.
All the welding on one side is completed.
This turned out to be a MUCH bigger job than I could ever of fathomed!
I first took diagonal measurements between front and rear end mounting bolts to make sure the chassis was square. After laying over the late floor I
took the same diagonal measurements but to key body bolt holes along the pan sides to make sure it was all square. I then clamped it all down, ran
some self tappers through various spot weld holes, took a couple of those new super fine cutting wheels and went around trimming the late and
(remaining) early floor section at the same time. Once this was all done the floor was removed again, both were cleaned up with the grinder and wire
wheeled on both sides where they were to be welded. The floor was then laid back onto the chassis, all measurements redone as described above,
reclamped and welding commenced.
Once again... you keen viewers will note the vertical cuts around the rear. This was done so as to allow the floor to be clamped down over the
original for accurate measurements, cuts, etc. to be done.
Since I don't have spot welding equipment, the holes were butt welded from either side, where the edges of old and new meet in other areas were all
seam welded on either side and the pan was stitch welded down the spine too. Better to go overkill than under, imho
BTW, hope you guys can see these pics okay. I've heard facebook can have picture hosting problems, but it's working fine as far as I can tell from
my laptop.
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65notch
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| posted on April 27th, 2008 at 03:39 PM |
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wow! looking good Cam
so glad to see that the notchback will hit the road again, wish i could've had the patience/money to have gotten it finished off properly
by the way, those other parts are still here for grabs if you want them?
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Cam
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| posted on April 27th, 2008 at 10:56 PM |
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Cheers Muz!
Been really enjoying doing this one, should make a wicked little daily when all is said & done.
Sounds good, haven't forgotten - just been really busy lately. Will definitely get down there this saturday if you're around?
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65notch
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| posted on April 28th, 2008 at 06:28 AM |
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yer for sure, i'll be messing around on the bug when i get home at about 12:30
If you get here earlier someone will be home to help you with the parts
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Cam
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 06:33 PM |
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Cool, I should be down there between 1 & 2pm, will text you if it's any sooner or later tho.
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Cam
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 08:53 PM |
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Well, braced up the passenger side... (Yes, all you victims of the nanny state it is braced enough) knowing that pieces would have to be removed and
it's better to be safe than sorry (hypocrite that I am *points to above statement).
Kinda saw this coming... The outer skin was heavily pitted, so decided to inspect. As you can see, underneath was not pretty at all... I had a
ballpoint pen nearby and was able to start punching holes in the inner skin.
Here is a sill that I sourced from a dry late model.
Since type 3's aren't like type 1's. The outer body sides are pressed from one sheet of steel, from roof gutter to the bottom lips of the sill,
then joined to the inner pieces of the shell with a heater channel running through/in between the bottom/sill sections.
To repair it properly, I undertook the job of splitting the donor sill.
After aeons of drilling out spot welds, grinding back seam welds, etc... this is what I ended up with: Inner sill, A pillar to C with channel
inclusive - hammers & dolly are there to straighten out the lip.
Shit photographer aren't I?
After bracing the car, I cut away the whole sill in preparation for replacement. Here you can see the outer skin of the donor sill waiting
patiently.
The A pillar & forward section is missing in this & the above photo due to it needing to be removed to vertically separate the A pillar &
back section.
After separating a supposedly solid sill I was surprised to find the inside surfaces very crusty! Can't believe what rust traps these things can be!
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Cam
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| posted on May 7th, 2008 at 06:29 PM |
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Finished up welding in the first corner tonight after measuring 13 times then welding twice.
Got the whole sill (aside from outer skin, obviously) sitting in place. The strings and self tappers work well, I find. Whilst the sill fits snugly in
it's hole, this enables me to do all my measurements/micro-alignments without worrying about it just dropping away, yet still gives me some free
play.
Rigged this up the other night, it's for our old dog who doesn't like the stairs in the dark. But certainly helps when day light disappears on you
and you're finishing up a task.
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Cam
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| posted on May 9th, 2008 at 07:21 PM |
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Man... This thread is up there with Burma in the Visitor Activity department 
Here are pics of the tacked in dog leg section (finished this last night). I thought it best to leave the rest of the sill (red G clamp back)not
permanently affixed to assure ease of, and spot on alignment of the dog leg.
Here we are doing the measurements for the sill installation. NEVER AGAIN!!! Maybe I'm just too pedantic, but when I get my old man (twice as
pedantic) to help me do the measurements it ends up in hours of string lines, jacks, clamps, grips, scribing, marking and finally... tacking!
Finished permanently welding in the sill today!!! Still looks no different than a few days ago, so had to mock up the outer skin to give myself the
full sense of achievement and have a somewhat more "complete" looking car to get back into next week.
The outer sill will have to be removed before final fitting, to get cleaned up & straightened. Since - once again - I didn't take pics of the
sill itself, I'll grab some next week when I get back into it!
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on May 10th, 2008 at 07:55 AM |
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You know you could tub it and narrow the front inners while you are at it Cam 
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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OZ Towdster
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| posted on May 10th, 2008 at 08:19 AM |
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Looking good , but i'mm getting that no daily driver feeling when finished
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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Cam
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| posted on May 12th, 2008 at 06:31 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by koolkarmakombi
You know you could tub it and narrow the front inners while you are at it Cam
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Stop being silly :p It takes a hell of a lot of self discipline to not be tempted to do such things, believe me... Just need to keep telling myself
that it will be a daily driver, so on & so forth
Thanks Andrew! I'm adamant that it will be a daily just want to be
assured that I'm driving around in a good, solid car and won't have any nasty surprises arising... guess you're in the same boat with your bus,
yeah?
No progress over the w/end and only got a total of an hour or so today to work on it. Took some pics but as per usual most turned out crap! Got the
insides of the sill pieces in etch (after bare metalling, de-ox & rust converting them) had a hole'y section just forward of the A pillar with
some flimsy & crusty bits of metal to deal with, so patched that too... But as per usual, forgot to take during & aft pics of that process.
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Cam
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| posted on May 12th, 2008 at 06:46 PM |
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Some pics!
The hole that I mentioned earlier You can kind of see my "snotted on welds" (as my English mate called them  ) attaching heater channel to vertical heater tube. This area needed a damned good tidy up!
This photo looked much clearer on my phone's preview screen. Heater channel in etch (you can just make out the above mentioned hole is now fixed) and
awaiting outer sill.
Outer sill after a rough clean up, bare metalling of the inside & welding up any holes.
Inside of outer sill post bare metalling, patching, de-ox, rust conv' & etch priming.
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mactaylor
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| posted on May 12th, 2008 at 06:55 PM |
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good stuff campbell will ask for a real look when i come down ive got sum odd bits for type 3s so if ya need anything give me a list and ill look
through my stuff
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on May 13th, 2008 at 04:00 PM |
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What size is the mig you are using? Gassed? What are you using to cut it with?
(I am keen to see the tools you are using...)
Loving your work!
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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Cam
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| posted on May 13th, 2008 at 04:27 PM |
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Thanks guys!
Am right for the sec, Mac. But will have a list growing in the coming weeks, so will definitely hassle you for some bits 
Be more than glad to, dude. I'm not a pro, nor is this going to be a show car so am just using what I've got at hand. Which is:
A gas mig, just a cigweld 135 which I was lead to believe is the best of the low cost gas migs (was around $600 from memory). Also, go for the big
bottle of gas. Not that shitty little knee high thing, it costs the same amount to fill the bigger one & you won't be recharging it
constantly.
Get yourself some good quality gloves, mask (my mask is broken and I'm hating using the one that came with the welder) and uber-heavy-duty wooden
handled wire brush!
Most of my cutting is done with a standard grinder running the thin flexovit steel cutting wheels. pictured here:
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v256/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
and here you can see the difference between these and the standard cutting wheels.
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v256/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
These things are awesome and I'll never go back to normal cutting wheels again!
You'll also need some grinding wheels and a wire brush for your grinder too!
Hand files come in really handy! I just have a flat file & a good medium sized round file, both of which I couldn't do without!
I've got a no-name version of a dremel, with a few of those $10-15 attachment kits which I rarely use but does come in handy.
I use a standard drill on the spot welds. Start with a pack of those small double ended drill bits (they do break easily, but get through nice &
quick) and then once you're through step up to a bigger bit. A drill bit sharpener will save you lots of $$$ in blunted bits.
You can get spot weld drill bits, but I figured out that those things must hate me! I can never get the metal off cleanly once done. I've also found
that unless you intend to rent one of those spot welder things the end result is much stronger if the replacement "spot" welds (in this case butt
welds) are done through a hole from either side.
That's all I've been using (off the top of my head) lately. As I said, I'm not a pro so if others can recommend different tools and techniques then
please feel free to chime in.
-C
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Dasdubber
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| posted on May 13th, 2008 at 07:44 PM |
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Nice work Cam - good to see jobs such as this done properly and with care/attention to detail!
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Cam
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| posted on May 14th, 2008 at 01:24 AM |
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Cheers Alan! You know what they say, 'a stitch in time saves nine'. Whilst this won't be anywhere near a DAS build standard your threads have
definitely been an inspiration with this project
Back to tools for a sec:
Something else that's really come in handy has been my hammer & dolly set which I got off ebay. My kit came from a Aus' based store but this one
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Autobody-Hammer-and-Dolly-set_W0QQitemZ23025064115... looks to be exactly the same as
far as I can tell and seems to suit the hobbyist just fine.
I also have a small range of different sized G clamps & vice grips too.
Something I'm pretty pedantic about is eye & ear protection. I've never been a fan of those stylised safety goggles (that look like sunnys) so
instead use sunglasses (tinted or yellow) with some traditional (school lab style) goggles pulled over the top.
I also wear the big fugly ear muffs for ear protection (both these and the goggles can be bought in cheap kits from any hardware store), if I'm doing
lots of cutting/grinding or am in a confined space I also wear ear plugs for extra assurance.
The advantage of the ear muffs means I can also have my ipod on underneath and my tools would be useless without a good motivational playlist:
 
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Cam
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| posted on June 3rd, 2008 at 05:28 PM |
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Well, it's been a couple of weeks... Unfortunately, the time I would of spent on the notch was spent building a small trailer for my Girlfriend &
I to take our karts out with.
Started with this broken, rusty, bent & high riding pile of wood and steel (will just do links, spare you all atleast some of my nerdyness):
http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v290/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
Only the guards & main square part of the frame were salvageable - you can see how bent the A frame is in this shot.
One piece of the A frame:
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v290/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
with the new A frame & top box section welded on (& gusseted):
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v290/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
Rolling, reco-d & lowered axle and jockey wheel:
http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v290/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
Primered & ready for it's maiden voyage:
http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v290/157/24/780954061/n7809540...
It will get rear half sides, tailgate & coat of black when time permits.
Right then.... Back to why I'm really here.
As I said, not much done... Got all the welding on the passenger side finally finished:
Looks like a dogs breakfast currently, will be giving it a good clean up tomorrow at some stage.
The rear under guard section needed some mods as the late fasty unit didn't match the early notch shape, abit of V cutting, squeezing & tacking
saw it taken care of tho.
Found a couple of these areas around the rear inner guard 
got them all welded up, but forgot to take pics of the end result
you get the idea tho 
Til next time!!!!
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Cam
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| posted on July 9th, 2008 at 02:33 PM |
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I have been pondering whether or not to sell this project or not, purely because I haven't been able to do much on it at all lately. Unfortunately
I've just been way too busy lately and when time permits, the weather normally doesn't.
I have however been able to finish all the work on the body and am getting ready to mate it up with the 'pan. I also picked up a running late model
type 3 to swap all the drivetrain over and am getting a mate to help me do the frame horn/IRS converted subframe for the rear.
I will get some more pics over the w/end.
Feel free to email me if you have around 2.5 to spend on a notch project with most of the gruelling stuff done.
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bags
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| posted on July 13th, 2008 at 09:58 PM |
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don;t give up now cam,u just got the winter blues
you should drag the ghia out from under the carport and put a tarp over it,put the notch in there so u got some dry workn space,crank some rein in
blood ,zone out and just think of the finished product and how kool its going to look finished,youv done all the hard work and it's lookn sweet ,keep
it up
what did u end up doing with my old notch,i miss that car
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Cam
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| posted on July 18th, 2008 at 05:52 AM |
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haha, nothing fixes the winter blues like a bit of slayer
Unfortunately, your old one was hiding some nasty surprises underneath in the form of some pretty messy old accident repairs. I got some good panels
off it though (will get to in a sec) and a couple of donor sections, so it lives on in other ways.
I finally got it all rolling again!!!
Also got all the panels on and dropped the suspension a couple of inches. It will probably go into storage like this for a couple of months, but
we'll see. Seeing it looking like a real car again has got me hanging to do more with it .
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dangerous
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| posted on July 18th, 2008 at 06:37 AM |
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Don't leave it in storage too long Cam.
There are a lot of people loooking forward to your next installment.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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1500S
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| posted on July 18th, 2008 at 02:52 PM |
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Looking good now. Just wondering if the car is an imported 65 1500S or has the hinges for the popouts been put in here. Would be good to see another
"S" on the road. Other bits also suggest a 1500S.
DH
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vwsteve
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| posted on July 18th, 2008 at 03:04 PM |
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watch out the leaves dont catch fire when welding sparks hit them, you might feel yourself warming up really quickly good work!
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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Cam
Custom Title Time!
Posts: 1535
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Registered: August 27th, 2002
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Location: Melbourne
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| posted on July 18th, 2008 at 03:31 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Don't leave it in storage too long Cam.
There are a lot of people loooking forward to your next installment.
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Cheers, Dave. Don't really intend too. I've just been sooooo busy lately and struggling to find time to work on it. My main priority of late has
been to get ALL the rust cut out & repaired, then to get the car rolling and sealed from the elements. This way I can store it and take some time
to decide which path the project will take.
I'm also working hard to get the funds together to kick start the ghia. I've pretty much decided which way to go and am "planning" for it to be
something pretty damned hardcore Only time will tell in both
cases tho...
Nup, the pop-outs were added by the previous owner and the 1500 motor that came with it is a single carby. What other signs point to 1500S?
All the welding is done, rexy. I've got the bolt on panels to sort, but not straight away.
Thanks for the comments guys, always great to hear feedback
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1500S
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| posted on July 19th, 2008 at 06:09 AM |
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He must have made it look-a-like! I saw the hinges in the B pillar but doesn't look like the nut plate is there for the latch. It has the wrap
around indicators on the front and has had a bonnet trim on it. Maybe a all from a F/back or 69 model . I now read back where you said the previous
owner had the hinges fitted. Well worth having popouts for ventilation on any driver!
If it was one of the imported S you would have a rare bird for Australia now. One came up on Evil bay a couple of months back in Melbourne. Aaron
Britcher has it now in Adelaide to restore. It looks like there may only be about 6 left here in OZ so the more we can keep going the better. Most
of them seemed to be in Vic and SA. Have only seen about 6 here in NSW since 1965.
DH
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Cam
Custom Title Time!
Posts: 1535
Threads: 187
Registered: August 27th, 2002
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Location: Melbourne
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| posted on August 6th, 2008 at 06:29 PM |
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The previous owner did the mod's for pop-outs, and the guards, bonnet & boot are all from a '69 that I wrecked... Hence the S-alike-ness of it.
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