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 Mick058
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 10:41 AM |
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Stripped Chassis threads
A few of my chassis threads along side the side steps are stripped on my bug.
Whats the best way to repair? Helicoil, drill and tap a bigger bolt? Cut through the heater channel and fit a plate?
Any suggestions or past experiences.
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 vw54
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 12:51 PM |
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try a tap first of all and clean the threads out and blow with compressed air
if that dont fix then helicoil will do the job
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Mick058
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 01:07 PM |
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The bolts move around and don't tighten, so i assume the hole is gone. What size helicoil would i need?
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 matberry
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 01:14 PM |
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You might need some rust repaired. Grind off the heads so you can gain access and assess then. If metal good, you can put o/size bolts in 1/4" (YUK),
or pref a heli-coil or weld in a new nut.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Mick058
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 01:24 PM |
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Sorry mate, what do you mean by "Grind off the heads so you can gain access and assess then"
I don't believe there is any rust, car is extremely clean, but i guess you never know. It was a pan off restoration, i'm more inclined to think that
some stripped them by over tightening (judging by the rest of the car, its pretty clean.)
What will the oversize bolts do? Will they channel their on thread, or do you mean drill and tap to 1/4' (YUK???)
Cheers
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matberry
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 01:36 PM |
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Sorry i was thinking M6 running board bolts when I said 1/4".
If the body-chassis perimeter bolts are turning, the best way to remove is still grid off the head of the bolt and what ever part of the shank you
can. From there you need to remove the offending stud (probably still stuck in the nut part of the body), by maybe driving it in with a pin punch or
drilling it out, niether much fun, then cleaning up the thread with a tap (M8 x 1.25). If not enough steel for the thread you may need to go up to
3/8W" (still yuk as nonmetric) Before you try any of the above, Try pulling out with a claw hammer (like your removing a nail) WHILE turning bolt
with a socket. It may grab some old thread and then start coming out.
Good luck
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Mick058
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 01:46 PM |
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To be honest, i haven't tried pulling them out yet, i don't think their stuck, i believe they'll come out quite easy. Saying this is so, i can
drill and tap a bigger hole (as i think their wont be enough bite on the original thread to re-use the same size bolt) and therefore use a bigger
bolt. Will i need to prepare the bolt at all?? i believe the stocks ones have a tapper at the end (not sure what thats for)
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matberry
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 01:54 PM |
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The bolts strip usually due to the threads getting rusty inside the heater channel (nice moist environment especially if no heater connected). Any M8
the right length will do. The point on og bolts is to pierce the chassis-body seal, you will have a hole already.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Mick058
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 02:22 PM |
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arh, cool, makes sense about the tapper. So if the existing thread will not fit the M8 bolt, drill and tap to 3/8W and use the relevant bolts for
that.
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matberry
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 02:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Mick058
arh, cool, makes sense about the tapper. So if the existing thread will not fit the M8 bolt, drill and tap to 3/8W and use the relevant bolts for
that.
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Correct, except if you go 3/8, you wont need to drill, just tap, unless bolt stays in then you drill 7mm and tap M8.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Mick058
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 02:37 PM |
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Cheers Matt, will see how i go.
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1303Steve
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| posted on April 29th, 2008 at 08:44 PM |
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Hi
If the door opening is above the stripped thread, you could bore a hole in the top of the heater channel and put a nut in from the top, the hole would
only need to be small, just enough for 3/8 socket to get in.
Steve
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General_Failure
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| posted on May 1st, 2008 at 08:56 AM |
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I was hoping this thread was going to go the way of welding in new captive nuts. Not because it's the best solution, but I'd love to know how to do
it properly.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 1st, 2008 at 10:32 AM |
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Hi Mick
I have a Wurth thread insert tool, I think that your close to me, I'm in Lugarno, I can come around if you want and fit some. The hole will need to
be bored out a little, to about 10mm I think and the insert is like pop rivet with threaded hole in the middle and it sits proud from the hole about a
1 mm. Call me 0439 133 354
Steve
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Mick058
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| posted on May 1st, 2008 at 11:38 AM |
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Fantastic, ill give you a buzz. Im in Allawah, so round the corner.
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matberry
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| posted on May 1st, 2008 at 04:54 PM |
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I prefer to weld in captive nuts, if the Wurth inserts are anything like nutserts which are very susceptable to spinning free, and then you got the
same problem all over again, but with a larger hole in the panel.
Steve take a pic of the Wurth tool for us please.
(VR used to be Qld's biggest Wurth account, I must look up a local rep!)
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 1st, 2008 at 11:54 PM |
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Hi
This is the Wurth tool, I've had no problems with the inserts spinning as long as the thread on the bolt that goes in is in good condition. I cant
see any other option with the body on the pan.
Steve
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