| [ Total Views: 1142 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 69289 ] |
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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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Use your head, don't abuse it!
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| posted on May 22nd, 2008 at 08:35 AM |
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Cleaning combustion chambers in and out of motor.
G'day,
I'm just looking for some fairly consistent hints and tips on cleaning the combustion chambers of the heads, both in situ and removed.
For example, I don't really believe I can progress much further with working on the 1800 until I give it a bit of a purge. I was seeing soot
blackened plugs after 5 minutes. Now I've made that horrible richness issue mostly go away, there is bound to be a massive carbon buildup in the
head. What can be used to loosen or purge it?
Now the other part, cleaning a carbon fouled head that is not in the vehicle.
It is my opinion that using a wire brush would be a bad idea due to scuffing and the creation of hot spots. Sure it'd probably be okay after a fairly
aggressive buffing, but by then the chamber size and geometry may have been affected.
What does everyone out there use to clean things up?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Grey 57
A.k.a.: Dean
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Old Grey Cruiser
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| posted on May 22nd, 2008 at 10:47 AM |
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Old skool method for de-carbonising was slowly tipping a can of diesel or water down the carb while the engine was running. Both methods removed the
carbon. Lots of smoke produced so best to do at night with a bit of wind about.
Had to tip the water or diesel in very slowly as to not drown the motor. Bit hard to start if the plugs get fouled.
Not recomending it , just chucking it out there.
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on May 22nd, 2008 at 10:54 AM |
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In the car: use redex fuel treatment..........works very well  ..............tip some down the throat of the carbie when running as well, like above .
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Joel
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| posted on May 22nd, 2008 at 04:49 PM |
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alot of ppl in the US rave about seafoam
heres a vid someone made doing there car with it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hrasAYG42g
the garage i used to work at the boss use to get me to do the old italian tune up on the old nanna cars that put around town once a month and carbon
up
b4 the oil change rigged up a water spray bottle in the air cleaner, take it out the road get it nice and hot then cane the shit out of it whilst the
water mist sprays down the carby throat and pressure cleans the chambers
the amount of shit that used to blow out the back was scarey but by the time i got back to the workshop they were running like new again
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 08:52 AM |
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So water injection works. Thanks for that.
DUB74L: how did you do the water bottle setup? I just sort of imagine a water bottle with a plastic tube sticking out of the top, with the other end
situated near the carby to let the venturi effect suck it out.
I have read a lot about Seafoam. Some people seem to think it is snake oil, whereas a lot swear by it.
I also know that it is available under the name of some sort of Subaru engine treatment from dealers.
I've never actually heard of redex. Where is it sold?
Thanks for all the info.
But I still have to ask what is the best method for removing carbon buildup from a removed head?
One of my stray heads was boxed because I thought it had a crack in it. I pulled it out recently for another look and I'm not so sure. It's not
between anything and anything, ie sparky and valve, or valve and valve. It's just in the middle of nowhere in the combustion chamber. For all I know
I could have scuffed it when I removed the head. It would be nice to know if the head is good.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 04:23 PM |
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a buzz with a wire brush should do the trick but be careful of the machined barrel seating faces/lip
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Joel
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 06:49 PM |
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bruces super dooper contraption was just one of those pump up pressurised spray bottles that had a long cable connected that ran from the bottle in
thro the drivers window
it had the nozzle removed and a length of hose with a jet on the end which was aimed down the carby throat with the air cleaner removed
dunno how u'd get around doing twin carbs tho
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 11:19 PM |
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I cleaned My heads and pistons with a wire brush in a cordless drill
they came up as new..
My engine had only done a few thousand kms
but the pistons and heads had a lot of Carbon on them..
I scrapped some off with a screwdriver before using the wire brush..
and the carbon was thick and hard..
I then degreased the inside of my tappet covers
so now, My engine oil doesn't go black straight away
and my engine goes really well
no black smoke anymore either..
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 11:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
I've never actually heard of redex. Where is it sold?
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You haven't heard of the REDEX trails of the fifties..??
VW beetles went well in them..
Lee
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Joel
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| posted on May 24th, 2008 at 10:36 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
My engine had only done a few thousand kms
but the pistons and heads had a lot of Carbon on them..
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thats what happens to engines when all they do is short 5 min trips down town every so often
thats why low mileage nanna cars arent always as good as they seem
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on May 24th, 2008 at 01:02 PM |
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I tried doing it with water a little while ago. Having a stock dual carb made the job easier. I wound out the air bypass screw on the idle thing and
used the idler throat as my input point. Well, I did initially anyway. I had fed the van about 200mL and there was no sign of anything from the
exhaust, although I knew it was sucking it up and evacuating it.
After a while of seeing nothing and stalling it a few times, I opened up the throttle and dumped maybe 40mL down a throat all at once. It earned me a
small puff of white smoke or vapour from the exhaust. I did the same on the other side with the same result.
After all that it is possible that it is idling a little smoother. Hard to say.
Next week I'll try a 'proper' treatment to see what happens. If I have time in the next few days I'll attack the possibly usable head to see what
it is really like.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on June 1st, 2008 at 07:36 AM |
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Update
I found some Redex in Repco yesterday and did the treatment. Even with damn near killing the motor with it being tipped into the carbies it only gave
a couple of sad little puffs of smoke. I guess that's a good thing.
Strange thing is I had the motor running for a while and the fan shroud thing was still cool to the touch. Inlet manifolds were giving off heat at the
base though so at least the heads were getting warm.
I also figured out why that water didn't give me a decent show when I put it through. I checked the oil  I'm going to assume the water was from that and not condensation. Oil change time again I guess.
When I didn't drown it the motor loved the Redex. It'd purr for a few seconds and stop farting.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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westi
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what the
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| posted on June 6th, 2008 at 08:51 PM |
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there is actually a top end cleaner availible.
subaru sell it.
it should be sprayed and left for awhile so that it has a chance to work.it is sprayed into the spark plug area after they have been removed
ofcourse.
subaru use to do it every service.
i have used it on heaps of cars,it's unreal.
down sharon.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on June 12th, 2008 at 08:32 AM |
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I have been meaning to pull the plugs since I steamcleaned and redex'd the motor. A few days ago I just left it to idle for ages so everything could
reach operating temp. I had already done the whole winding it up thing on a previous occasion along with dumping into the carbies. So now I was just
letting it do its work with the Redex in the fuel tank.
I have to say that after letting it chug for an hour it was running a bit smoother.
Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to take to the questionable head yet. Rough week. I've got my fingers crossed.
Incidentally, I performed a little experiment over the last couple of days with my ill fated EA Falcon.
This car has had the ultimate in engine abuse. Constantly running stone cold. Being started and stopped a minute later maybe 30 times a day.
Needless to say it's running pretty bad.
This is where my experiment comes in.
I decided to keep the revs up. Because of the type of driving I normally do the revs would barely even make it to 2000RPM.
So on the trip home from work I chose gears that kept it between 2500 and 4000 RPM for the most part. It gained me a few funny looks, but hey, I'm
not breaking any laws.
After the trip home there was a slight, but noticeable improvement.
The net day I needed to make a quick trip to Echuca. About 60Km each way. Probably the longest drive it has been on for nearly a year. So I repeated
the experiment. The car is misfiring a lot less, actually idles sometimes, and has smoother acceleration now. Keeping the revs higher definitely makes
a difference to cleaning out a fouled motor.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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