| [ Total Views: 1353 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 69370 ] |
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 eraser
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| posted on May 25th, 2008 at 10:06 PM |
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Possible to put a EJ22 into a Semi-auto Beetle?
As per topic.
Would it be possible to fit and use without cracking the clutch plate? Anyone attempted doing it?
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bajachris88
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| posted on May 25th, 2008 at 10:21 PM |
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Would be a hell more hp....
for the internal single clutch plate, i think it would be wise to take into account an upgrade.
I only owned a semi auto, can't eva say i actually did a subi conversion on it though.
I'm just throwin an educated assumption.
I say there wouldn't be any reason why u couldn't fit it though, but i could see the clutch slippin when u drive the ej22 hard.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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pod
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| posted on May 25th, 2008 at 10:26 PM |
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maybe ask the question or search on the vw auto forum
http://vwar.org/
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MickH
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| posted on May 25th, 2008 at 10:50 PM |
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Cant see why not...you could possibly use the power steering pump for the transmission fluid pump???
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on May 26th, 2008 at 04:40 PM |
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clever man mike... that would be a good idea to play with.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 27th, 2008 at 04:26 PM |
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trying to get the right vacuum signal for correct clutch operation may be tricky...
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on May 27th, 2008 at 07:08 PM |
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hmm.... tru it is adjustable though, but 2.2ltr capacity will be moving alot more air than stock 1.5ltr or 1.6ltr, and so the vacuum might still be
out of the adjustable range available on the control valve.
Is it possible to buy & plumb what i spose u would call a 'vacuum dampener' into the inlet manifold?
Gosh that would be painful to tune up...
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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MickH
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| posted on May 27th, 2008 at 08:06 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
hmm.... tru it is adjustable though, but 2.2ltr capacity will be moving alot more air than stock 1.5ltr or 1.6ltr, and so the vacuum might still be
out of the adjustable range available on the control valve.
Is it possible to buy & plumb what i spose u would call a 'vacuum dampener' into the inlet manifold?
Gosh that would be painful to tune up...
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"in line restriction" would cure that problem...
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 27th, 2008 at 10:43 PM |
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Hi
Vacuum all goes into the tank and vacuum is basically vacuum. I have friend that rallies a semi auto bug and he takes his vacuum signal from one side
of his motor only with problems, its a 1916 twin webers etc. Good idea with power steering pump, might have to slow it down a tad.
Steve
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 09:13 AM |
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I agree, an inline restriction will slow flow, but since it goes to a tank there isn't much flow anyway. So the vacuum pressure will end up the same
with or without a restriction in the line. At steady state the pressure in the tank will be the same as the pressure in the manifold.
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MickH
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 01:01 PM |
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The vacuum pressure in the manifold/tank only actuates the "clutch" lever anyway....a little bit more "suck" on the system wouldn't degrade
performance as you still change the gears (2nd to 3rd ). As for the power steering pump....a change of pulley would allow you to increase or decrease
the flow close to what it should be...worth a try I reckon.....
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 03:35 PM |
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But I thought it was how it transitions from vacuum to zero pressure during take-off that is the problem. If that transition rate changes (due to
carbie changes on a vw engine, or a different engine) then the rate of clutch take-up changes and it doesn't take-off smoothly. Changing gears would
be no problem.
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mackaymanx
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 03:48 PM |
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But dosen't it use the torque converter "take off". Or have I got that mixed up.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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pete wood
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 05:18 PM |
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Sorry if I seem like a naysayer, but why do you want a SEMI auto? A type 3 or kombi auto would do almost the same and presumably be a bit stronger
too. Just an idea.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 05:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Baja Wes
But I thought it was how it transitions from vacuum to zero pressure during take-off that is the problem. If that transition rate changes (due to
carbie changes on a vw engine, or a different engine) then the rate of clutch take-up changes and it doesn't take-off smoothly. Changing gears would
be no problem.
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bajawes is right...
the clutch needs to slip on take off, otherwise u get a nasty shudder from launch. I had to adjust it on the control valve for my semi auto baja cause
it was engaging too quickly and would give the whole car a kick forward. But only when i was moving the car from rest.
Although its got the torque convertor, it still does kick harshly, cause with a quick clutch engagement, the power in the torque convertor is very
quickly applied and launches ya forward.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 05:56 PM |
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Hi
My friend with the semi auto rally car uses a 180mm puck clutch. The clutch is only used to change gear, the clutch is activated buy the switch in
the gear lever, so when you move off from rest the torque converter is doing the slipping.
Steve
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 06:56 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
My friend with the semi auto rally car uses a 180mm puck clutch. The clutch is only used to change gear, the clutch is activated buy the switch in
the gear lever, so when you move off from rest the torque converter is doing the slipping.
Steve
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Correct.....
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MickH
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| posted on May 28th, 2008 at 07:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
Sorry if I seem like a naysayer, but why do you want a SEMI auto? A type 3 or kombi auto would do almost the same and presumably be a bit stronger
too. Just an idea.
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WEIGHT.......well thats one thing to consider anyway...the semi auto will slip right in and you don't have the hassel of drive shaft differences etc
to deal with,let alone mounting differences. The fact it is already a semi auto is a a major one..The Kombi auto,although much stronger weighs half a
ton...is a lot larger and a manual gearbox with a lazy man clutch would be more interesting....
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 29th, 2008 at 09:13 AM |
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Ok. I have never owned or even driven a semi-auto, so I'm not too familiar with them. I had just heard that they can be sensitive to changing carbs
or cams as it changed the vaccum and the clutch wasn't as smooth afterwards.
The rally car with the puck clutch doesn't seem like a good example, as I doubt that car ever needs to be driven slowly.
Steve, was your comment "I have friend that rallies a semi auto bug and he takes his vacuum signal from one side of his motor only with problems"
meant to say "with no problems"?
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 29th, 2008 at 05:00 PM |
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Hi Wes
He has no problems at all, he has a roadie and a rally car. The roadies a 1776 with a single 40mm Weber, the rally car is a 1916 with dual Webers.
Steve
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