| [ Total Views: 970 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 69711 ] |
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 Notch Nut
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 posted on June 9th, 2008 at 07:24 PM |
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Ouchies!!
Had a mishap in the Notch this evening. The Jeep fared much better than my ol girl, but I am quite surprised how well ol faithful didn't crumple
either. 
The real damage is under the guard cos I think the front end may be twisted which is gonna be a real problem.
I am insured with Vigil with a classic car policy so I get to keep the "wreck" regardless which is a bonus. Just wondering if anyone out there
knows more about how bad the damage is and if it can be saved?
I am also in the market for a new drivers side front guard in the Melbourne area if anyone out there can help too.
Cheers
- Adam
Under the guard in the wheel arch. Note the crease in the metal.
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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thugbug
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| posted on June 9th, 2008 at 07:41 PM |
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Probably a good idea to check under the floor pan for any twisting or bowing. Hard to tell from the pics. You`re bound to have gotten creases in the
inner arch from the impact. Surely the cars worth saving isn`t it? Hope you resolve it soon. ( and cheaply )
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Notch Nut
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| posted on June 9th, 2008 at 09:04 PM |
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If a rusted out kombi can be ressurected from a river bank then this ol girl is well worth saving. It is just of the opinion of the insurers and the
cost involved. I will keep the car and get it fixed regardless. The insurance company will have to remove the car from my cold dead hands before I
ever let some pencil pusher destroy my pride & joy. There is definatly some distortion of the front end.
I didn't get too many photos cos of the poor light but it is a case of what lies beneath that is where the real damage and $ are. It isn't a case
of a cut & shut with new guards due to the impact. It could have been worse if it hit front on and needed a new front apron and crushed it
inwards.
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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Andy
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| posted on June 9th, 2008 at 09:20 PM |
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Sad to see your misfortune, it's a sickening feeling.
Had a similar bingle in our '71 fasty not long ago. Looking at the damage we got a little more twisting under the bonnet, we were hit by a car coming
across in front, so the front was shunted slightly sideways as well as guard damage like yours.
We were quoted ~$4000 to have it all fixed due to the work needed to straighten it, but it could be done OK. Our pan and wheel alignment etc was still
in check, so at least that was OK.
Ours is now sitting out the back (like you no way I could give up the car). No idea how or when I can get it back on the road.
I hope you get yours fixed soon!!!
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Notch Nut
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| posted on June 10th, 2008 at 08:58 PM |
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Update : The inner arch on the drivers side is creased and has broken away in parts from the spot welds where it joins the corner in the boot area
behind the spare wheel well. The inside boot area and other wheel well are all crease free as is the front apron. The boot lid is not quite fitting
properly but this may be because of the crease in the drivers wheel arch or the dent in the front which has moved the hinges. The passanger front
quarter has come loose at the bolts on the bottom corner and at the top where there is some rust which has corroded the metal that the screw holds
onto. The drivers guard is mangled and is a throw away job.
The good news is that I have a straight front end from a squareback in my garage of the same year that can be cut and butchered to provide spare sheet
metal for the replacement panels required. All these years of hoarding parts & panels has come in handy.
Does anyone know how much it would cost to re-weld a new wheel arch in? I am prepared to do all the bolt on repairs but welding is well beyond my
skill.
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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 helbus
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| posted on June 10th, 2008 at 09:32 PM |
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The welding could cost many hundreds, maybe a thousand if you want it to be absolutely perfect and undetectable that it has been done. Or it may not
be to bad, and the creased panels may be able to be metal finished perfectly without removal. It sometimes means actually getting in and starting the
job to see what the outcome will be.
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Grey 57
A.k.a.: Dean
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| posted on June 10th, 2008 at 10:22 PM |
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Bad luck Adam, hope you are ok mate. Does the door open and close ok? Surely it could be pulled straight?? Definetly worth saving. Not too many
unrestored original Notchies with history like this ol girl around.
Hopefully the frame head isnt bent. Run a tape measure between the wheel centres left and right either side to check.
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1500S
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| posted on June 11th, 2008 at 08:24 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Notch Nut
Had a mishap in the Notch this evening. The Jeep fared much better than my ol girl, but I am quite surprised how well ol faithful didn't crumple
either.
The real damage is under the guard cos I think the front end may be twisted which is gonna be a real problem.
I am insured with Vigil with a classic car policy so I get to keep the "wreck" regardless which is a bonus. Just wondering if anyone out there
knows more about how bad the damage is and if it can be saved?
I am also in the market for a new drivers side front guard in the Melbourne area if anyone out there can help too.
Cheers
- Adam
Under the guard in the wheel arch. Note the crease in the metal.
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Just be careful if the car is written off by the insurance company. All those years ago when I first went to register the notch which has now been
restored again by Whereisfelicity and Co, I found that it was on the written off register here in NSW. I had to get a letter of repair from a
qualified panel shop before I could continue with the registration.
Maybe better to look at repairing that bump without involving the insurance company. If it was your fault, just cop the $$$$$$.
That front quarter should pull straight with something bolted to the bumper mount for a pull. Doesn't look too bad unless you haven't shown other
damage. Early Type 3s without the tube from the bumper to the frame head helps to protect the floor pan from major damage.
Hope that helps as well.
DH
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Notch Nut
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| posted on September 7th, 2008 at 11:33 AM |
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I've finally heard back from my panel shop buddy and the ol girl is all straight again.
Can't wait to see it in the flesh next weekend when I pick it up. I won't get any funny looks from people when the guard bottoms out on the tyre
anymore!
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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ancientbugger
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| posted on September 7th, 2008 at 12:36 PM |
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Good result
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trickysimon
A.k.a.: Simon Azzopardi
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| posted on September 7th, 2008 at 04:58 PM |
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Nice! Bet your excited 
Simon
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Notch Nut
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| posted on September 7th, 2008 at 05:48 PM |
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3 months of riding my harley in Melbournes wettest winter has sure been fun let me tell ya!!
Petrol has cost me FA on the bright side!
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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Jay_1965vw
A.k.a.: Jay
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| posted on September 8th, 2008 at 08:00 AM |
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So glad to hear you've got a good result Adam 
You won't know yourself!! (I know I didn't after i got Wolf back).
Part of Melbourne's Unreal Aircooled VW Community
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Notch Nut
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| posted on September 8th, 2008 at 05:29 PM |
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Funny thing, having borrowed my wifes 96 Laser and my mates 98 Lancer occasionaly over the last 2 months, the first time I drove the notch to the
repairers was a weird feeling and then it occured to me that this is the way that it used to handle/brake/steer with all its quirky nuances. Heaven
forbid I start to go soft and get used to creature comforts and yearn for a modern car.....
Unless it's a VW of course....that would be tolerable
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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Notch Nut
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| posted on September 13th, 2008 at 08:13 PM |
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The notch lives again. Picked it up from the panel shop today. The temporary guard looks ratty and a "little" bit rusty but it will do until I
have repaired the minor hole in the good guard I have and give it a touch of paint. All in all it cost me $600 for the panel work, I supplied the
spare guard and had all the other broken bits in spares from my collection.
All rust free except this section.
And after being off the road for 3 months, she still doesn't miss a beat.
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
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