| [ Total Views: 1982 | Total Replies: 43 | Thread Id: 70179 ] |
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 Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 06:45 PM |
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What sealer do I use for the floor pan seal
Did the search thing to no real avail. Can someone tell me the best sealant to use for the floor pan to body seal. Have read article in VW magazine,
but he glues the seal in place. Is this a good idea or not.
Will the sealant hold the seal in the correct place on just the floor pan as I want to put the seal on now, but wont bolt the body down for the final
time for nearly 3 months. I need to put the body on and off several times for checking things prior to painting and dont want the seal to move and
want it on there to stop scratching of painted floor pan.
Thanks, Kevin
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68AutoBug
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 07:15 PM |
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Hi
I've never had anything to do with taking off the body
and the seal
but it seemed like a good idea to me to glue it into place
[one side only]
My Son painted his chassis with POR 15 first, which is the hardest paint known to mankind... lol
so, taking the body off and on won't scratch the chassis if its POR 15..
I have heard that replacing the rubber seal is one of the hardest jobs on a beetle...
to stop noise, I have padded My beetle with layers of the blue EVA yoga mat You can buy at Go Lo BigW etc.
I have 2 layers over the roof, in all panels, in the doors
around the engine bay inside and out, even under the bonnet and carpet as I like the noise from My twin straight thru pipes from a standard muffler ,
but My Wife didn't .. so, now she thinks I have quietened My beetle's exhaust... lol
cheers Kev
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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vwrallycar
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 07:26 PM |
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cant remember exactly what we used, but im sure sikaflex would be the go, it dries but stays flexible
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 08:19 PM |
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Thanks guys and I have heard before that the sealant needs to stay flexible.
Kev
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 barls
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 08:21 PM |
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used sikaflex on mine
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skelaaleks
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 09:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by barls
used sikaflex on mine
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X2 for sikaflex
13bt aztec
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on July 2nd, 2008 at 10:40 PM |
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Hi
Whatever you use make sure its non acidic. Maybe a windscreen sealant?
Are you supposed to still use tacks like the factory did?
Steve
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vwrallycar
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| posted on July 3rd, 2008 at 04:19 PM |
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yeah its still tacked into place, and make sure u seal the open ends of the body to pan seal with sikaflex as well
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Midlife crisis
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| posted on July 4th, 2008 at 01:28 AM |
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sikaflex is mans best friend
Marc
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Baldy67
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| posted on July 5th, 2008 at 11:26 AM |
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sikaflex is the best and you can get it at bunnings
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on July 6th, 2008 at 01:22 PM |
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Thanks for all the input. Does sikaflex stay flexible when cured ?? I thought it was just a strong adhesive, maybe the name suggests the answer.
Cheers, Kevin
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barls
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| posted on July 6th, 2008 at 01:27 PM |
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it stays flexible for nigh on forever. its also a pita to get off anything you dont want it on like hands
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Baldy67
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| posted on July 9th, 2008 at 08:59 PM |
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If you use your hands to put it on,put some liquid soup on your hands
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Camo
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| posted on July 12th, 2008 at 12:10 PM |
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Thanks again. Bought the Sikaflex and am going down to start sealing.
Cheers, Kevin
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shaihulud
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| posted on July 13th, 2008 at 06:29 PM |
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If you are not going to finally bolt the body down for a while and if you are going to remove the body a few times, I'd seal it to one side only,
otherwise getting it off will be big messy hassle.
I'd seal it to the pan and then be careful about how the body is removed.
Either way doesn't matter, I suppose.
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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| posted on July 13th, 2008 at 07:00 PM |
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.
uze r all crazy, dont uze sikaflex, think of the poor bastard 20 years from now trying to do a body off resto, hes never going to get it off,
sikaflex sticks ike shit to a blanket just uze normal non hardening w/s sealant and it will be fine!
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
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Newt
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| posted on July 13th, 2008 at 07:36 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Scuize my ignorance. Did the original assembly use a sealer (or just a seal tacked in place?).
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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barls
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| posted on July 13th, 2008 at 08:22 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by rexy
uze r all f#%King crazy, dont uze sikaflex, think of the poor bastard 20 years from now trying to do a body off resto, hes never going to get it off,
sikaflex sticks ike shit to a blanket just uze normal non hardening w/s sealant and it will be fine!
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we also use sika at work and dont have any problems with it and we use it on deck plates and burps. they come up every 3 months
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 11:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Camo
Thanks again. Bought the Sikaflex and am going down to start sealing.
Cheers, Kevin
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I cant believe I was going to seal the floor pan 2.5 yrs ago and still haven't done it  Amazing how life occurrences can change everything.
Now I read on the sikaflex that it only has 9 months shelf life and is expired. Back to the shops again 
Kev
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donn
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 12:12 PM |
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I'd check it first, I've used Sikaflex way out of date, if it comes out of the tube ok (no undue force) then it's still ok.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 12:46 PM |
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Thanks donn, I will check it out now.
Kev
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barls
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 01:24 PM |
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the same kev, we have used tubes at work that were on the shelf for over a year. so long as its still liquid its fine.
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hellbugged
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 01:30 PM |
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use wurth not sikaflex as it is acidic and will corrode if given the smallest amount of bare metal to work thru (scratches)
Use those vinyl "tough" gloves
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 03:10 PM |
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Thanks again all, for the replies.
Hellbugged, (Dave) VW54 said to use house roof gutter sealant or similar as it was non-acidic so I guess you make a good point about the sikaflex.
Cheers, Kev.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 03:12 PM |
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wurth make a lot of Volkswagen sealers
Like Wurth seam sealer and you can even buy a bead spreader nozzle. about $20 a cartridge.
Sikaflex is to hold windscreen glass in. and fixing holes in
your work boots
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 08:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Camo
Thanks again all, for the replies.
Hellbugged, (Dave) VW54 said to use house roof gutter sealant or similar as it was non-acidic so I guess you make a good point about the sikaflex.
Cheers, Kev.
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Silicon non acidic translucent sealant...
usually sold as roof/gutter/bathroom sealant..
best to use gloves with this stuff...
looks like silastic acidic sealant but smells different..
best thing about it Kev...
if You needed to pull it all off.... it would all come off in one go.. not like the acidic silicon...
then again I've never had any problems with the original acidic silicon... no rust etc as once it sets....
its on for 10 years... lol and no air can get to it....
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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vwo60
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 08:11 PM |
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I woud suggest a wind screen sealant like butal mastic, it will stay plyable until you mount the body, sikaflex will set to hard to compress after the
three months if you use to much of it, the original gasket was nailed to the pan with no sealant and a mastic sealant used in the corners where the
rubbers joint, i have used the mastic several times with no issues, simple clean up with turps
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 08:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vwo60
I woud suggest a wind screen sealant like butal mastic, it will stay plyable until you mount the body, sikaflex will set to hard to compress after the
three months if you use to much of it, the original gasket was nailed to the pan with no sealant and a mastic sealant used in the corners where the
rubbers joint, i have used the mastic several times with no issues, simple clean up with turps
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funny you should say that...
I was just thinking of butyl mastic as used on windscreens in the 60s...
excellent stuff... pliable...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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donn
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| posted on December 23rd, 2010 at 02:18 AM |
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Ah, butyl mastic, I have about 6 tubes on the shelf, been there for 20 years, I go out and look at it from time to time, I just love seeing it siting
there slowly dieing, it deserves a very slow death, I hate the stuff.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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mactaylor
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| posted on December 28th, 2010 at 07:36 AM |
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if you want to smooth out sika flex or any silicone products use a fresly cut potato, cut to the desired shape and it will not stick to the spud. use
11fc as it is more flexible. I build concrete water tanks and sika flex around cast in fittings where the concrete has shrunk away from the fitting.
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