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 dj_daniel88
A.k.a.: Daniel
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 02:26 AM |
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help buying a second bug
It's been a few years since I've been on this forum now!
I used to own a '73 beetle, had it for about a year. I made a few mistakes with that car, the biggest one being that I bought the car with little
research, I was not 100% sure what I was buying, and I believe paid too much for the car initially considering it's condition.
The car had a lot of rust, which is not unusual, but I found a very dedicated panel beater who cut out the rust and welded new metal. A few thousand
dollars later I had a bug with an exceptional body.
The exhaust used to cough out black smoke, and leak oil, marking the drive way. The interior needed work also. New windscreen needed, new seat belts
etc... I didn't know enough at the time and I didn't want to over capitalize on the car, so I sold it and just broke even.
I was put off by this experience and went on to buy a 2002 Golf GTi and I love it! However, I have always still had a soft spot for the beetle and now
my interest in it has flared up again. I want to give it a second try. I plan on having one as a second car, for fun on the weekends etc.
Being an old car, obviously it is not going to be perfect. I want a nice, original beetle that is mechanically sound with a nice clean and tight
interior. Minimal problems.
I need some advice as to how much I should spend according to the condition. I don't understand the different models completely, I only know the
different engines, and that I want a 1600cc. eg. Is it best to buy a beetle with a good body/minimal rust, and I could work on the interior myself?
Whats the most important thing I should be looking for... rebuilt engine?
Yeah so I'm all over the shop. I hope some of you can help me get on track! So I will know what I am looking for!
Thanks
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 Bizarre
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 08:22 AM |
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You need to sk a LOT more questions and give a LOT of answers
What model do you want - early or late?
Do you want a daily driver or weekend car?
Stock or modified?
standard beetle or superbeetle?
some guidlines -
early is dearer
early is more sort after
later is safer
later drives better
rust is bad - every thing else bolts on
My simple rule is buy as good, rust free and un modified model as you can
Shiny paint is usually hiding rust
Futue te ipsum!!!
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dj_daniel88
A.k.a.: Daniel
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 09:45 AM |
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I want a later model.
The car will be a weekend car.
I'd prefer original, I don't like a lot of the modifications and extras some Beetles have.
What is the difference between a standard and a super beetle?
Is it actually possible to buy a rust free beetle... You run the risk of buying a bogged up car, or lots of rust plain as day.
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thugbug
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 10:29 AM |
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Well dj-daniel88 - you can always buy mine. It`s currently for sale here. Thugbug.
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Camo
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 10:35 AM |
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dj,
From your first post I already worked out you wanted a week-end car and original stock car, unless you edited your thread. I suggest looking on this
site and then back tracking the sellers previous posts on this site and see what he has mentioned in the past. My car is not finished yet but if it
were and for sale you would see that my car had a lot of rust and has now been all cut out and replaced with metal and photos to prove. Maybe also
mention where you are living as someone may be able to come with you to look at a car. I think from what I have seen, most people on here are
honest.
Good luck with it all, Kevin
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Joel
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 10:37 AM |
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main difference between superbugs and standards is the front suspension
standard bugs have the same old torsion bar design front end since first built in the late 30s
supers have a modern McPherson strut front end that is still used on most new cars today
also supers had disc brakes and IRS and 1600 where as standards from the same era only had 1300 drum brakes and swing axle rear
also later superbugs had the bigger curved windscreen and "real" dash board
supers suspension can be tuned way passed what a standards can but alot of purists dont like the look of the fatter bonnet
i prefer them they make the best german lookers
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thugbug
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| posted on July 27th, 2008 at 11:00 AM |
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And i should add there is NO rust in the floorpan on mine. Clean as. VERY minor bubbling on one rear pillar and same down o/s/f guard where it meets
the drivers door. Was checked under when at V-Force.Even they were impressed how clean it was underneath when they fitted a Short shifter/front
shocks/neoprene bushes at rear.
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dj_daniel88
A.k.a.: Daniel
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 12:38 AM |
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies. I've been doing some more research, and I think I would need to buy a beetle with no or very minimal work required. At the
moment I just don't have the time to restore one to the standards I want.
I learnt about the heater channels, and how important they are, in terms of structure of the car (and heat!). Apparently it is common to find rusted
out heater channels, is this correct? I remember on my old beetle the heater was never quite right... It blew out heat but it was smelly heat, and it
never got all that hot. And we could never stop the heat from flowing through, even with the vents closed. Could this be a symptom of rusting heater
channels?
I decided that I want a super beetle. I like the original dash, not the big plastic one. I found one on carsales that looks ok. It is a little over my
budget but it all depends on the condition:
http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/VOLKSWAGEN/SUPERBUG/details.aspx...
How much should I expect to pay for one that has a rust free, or minimal rust body and heater channels, and mechanically sound? I think these would be
the most important factors for me, as the interior is something I could work on. Especially with the repro parts that are available.
I have found a few beetles that have had the seats changed over at some stage, taken from another car. Seems like a common thing... I don't like it
at all. The original seats with perforated vinyl are the best!
I'm in Melb, western suburbs. Any local help would be awesome. I really wouldn't know what to look for, and I'd hate to make the same mistake
again.
Thugbug have you got any pictures of your beetle you have for sale?
Also, does anybody know of an air cooled VW specialist in Melbourne? It would be great to know I have someone there who can do engine rebuilds etc in
case I bought a car in need of that...
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 barls
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 04:25 PM |
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i paid and sold it for around the 4 grand mark for the last one i had. it was straight but needed a new paint job. my one below is 18 grand roughly
but it is modifed
id expect to pay about the price on that one you listed but only if straight, no rust and in great condition mechanically
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Bizarre
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| posted on July 28th, 2008 at 04:51 PM |
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You would want to see it in person but that is not ridiculous - but it would want to be rust free.
Round the rear window is the worst place
they shoved foam up there and it gets wet from the flow through cresents behind the rear windows.
Make sure it was resprayed properly
Windows out
new rubbers.
The window scrapers on the doors can be a bitch to change and are usually taped up in a respray
There is a 76 in http://www.clubvw.org.au/
Maybe have a talk and see if that is still there
Futue te ipsum!!!
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dj_daniel88
A.k.a.: Daniel
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| posted on July 29th, 2008 at 12:18 AM |
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Hi guys thanks for the replies again...
So I am considering going to look at that green one I listed. Price is a little steep, but if it ticks all the boxes I wouldn't want to let it go.
How do I check the heater channels? If they do have some rust, should I walk away?
Like I said before, it is hard to tell if a beetle has just been bogged up and resprayed... only for the rust to continue eating away the car. Can
this be identified when viewing the car?
Bizzarre, u mention rust being a common problem around the rear window. Does this rust right through, so I could easily spot it from the outside of
the car, or would I need to check behind the interior? And how can you tell if the rubbers were removed/replaced during the respray?
Another thing, which I forgot to mention. My old beetle let off a lot of fumes, petrol/oil fumes, particularly when starting it up. I assume this is
an engine problem... I would not know where to look to check for things like this, and to check the engine in general. Can a regular mechanic check it
over? Or would I need to find an air cooled VW specialist around here? (if there is one)
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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 posted on July 29th, 2008 at 12:34 AM |
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1302s superbug 1972
Hi
its hard to tell about the rust around the rear window
it does bubble first before the rust breaks thru the paint..
this car does look great to Me...
If the car has been garaged for most of its life then the rust around the rear window should be OK..
its mostly when they are out in the weather...
check to see if the new paint goes under the window rubbers etc especially on the doors...
if the door window rubbers all look new...
You have it made...
that one looks great...
One family owned...
looks like all the work has been done...
great interior..
I'm not a lover of superbugs 1302S..
but it looks great.. inside and out....
For that money it should be perfect...
check it out
and go for it...
LEE
Best Wishes
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on July 29th, 2008 at 12:42 AM |
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Forgot..
Do Not let a "normal" mechanic anywhere near it...
ONLY Use a VW Mechanic... ALWAYS...
Fumes are no worries if everything is OK...
all the fuel hoses should have been replaced etc...
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Bizarre
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| posted on July 29th, 2008 at 07:35 AM |
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Oily exhaust fumes is an easy-ish fix
You flange your heater boxes. Time and money but easy
The best check for the rear window is to see if you can see the original seam in the rain gutter.
A smooth seam has been bogged
Now nothing REALLY wrong with bog if the rust has been removed correctly, treated and dry when sprayed.
But, no seam means a repair has been done.
There ARE cars out there that are rot free
You just have to find one
Futue te ipsum!!!
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dj_daniel88
A.k.a.: Daniel
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| posted on August 31st, 2008 at 11:29 PM |
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So its been a while, but I didn't want to start another thread.
I have a couple more questions I hope you guys can help me with:
Does anybody know of any VW mechanics in Melbourne
Is it common to put sound deadening materials in a beetle? Is it difficult? And is it bad for rust?
Yeah so I'm still looking, that green one on carsales is still there. It's just a little bit too much than I want to spend, so I don't want to go
and be a tyre kicker. Hoping to spend $5k. They sure aren't easy to come across though!
Thanks!
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dj_daniel88
A.k.a.: Daniel
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 04:35 PM |
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That one is still on carsales, and I have got a bit more information on it...
There is some bubbling under the paint near the rear window, that is the only rust to be found. It has had a full respray with new rubbers etc, and
the motor has had an overhaul in 2005. Interior has been completely redone, new carpet, head lining and seat covers. The car is not registered though.
For 7.5k, it seems a little steep to me. The seller justifies the price because it is a collectors item, 15 millionth beetle. Can anyone shed some
light on this? Is this model worth more than the standard super beetle?
What do you guys think? Is it worth lookin at this price or should I keep looking??
Appreciate your input!
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