| [ Total Views: 1028 | Total Replies: 8 | Thread Id: 71322 ] |
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 izac
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 posted on August 25th, 2008 at 04:46 PM |
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Help with lowering rear of Type 3 please....
I have lowered the front of my Square successfully and now I want to get the rear at about the same height.
when I first lowered the rear a couple of weeks ago I got it down low but too much for any decent clearance (the heat exchangers are about 30mm away
from the ground!) . i thought i dropped it one inner but im not sure. last weekend i tried to bring it bak up but i found i could only get it back up
to stock or same height that i first lowered it to. tried with both inner and outer but could find no middle ground 
Please help -what can i do?
heres how it looks now..
rear
front
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Gibbo
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| posted on August 25th, 2008 at 07:03 PM |
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Mate, Im looking to do my own very soon, I found this info on the samba quite a while ago, there are also a series of videos on youtube starting with
this one, they look pretty good: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMxBolHOJR4
Remember, this is from the Samba forums, not from my experience, but I will be following this and the vids too. I believe most people only go two
clicks on the rear usually. Good luck with it all.
To lower the rear is simple, however, not easy as the front.
The Torsion bar is located towards the fron end of the car.
Look inside the wheel well of the rear wheel, driver side.
To your left you will see the torsion bar pocking through. It looks like a solid round tube , held in place with a odd (rectangle?) shaped plate and
has
four bolts.
To access the torsion, you will need to take care of a couple of things. First, remove the small plate in the rear fender just in front of the
torsion.
This will allow you to slide the torsion straight out. There is one small (9mm I think) bolt holding it in place. You will need to remove the rocker
trim also.
Next, remove the four bolts that hold the plate in place, ans slide the cover off. The rubber boot slides off next.
Now, remove the shocks, and loosen the rear axle from the lower are that connects to the torsion.
Once you have all parts pulled away, MARK THE LOCATION of the stock position, this is important to ensure a level lowering, then slide it out.
You will need to pry it. but it should come without any serious force.
Once you feel it come free from the inner teeth, move it upwards to the desired height. I went 3 clicks fron and rear on my 67. Any more would be too
much to deal with.
Once you have it where you want, slide it securely back in and replace the covers. This sounds easy , but be prepared to fight it. The torsion plate
Cover will be a bit difficult because the rubber boot will tend to keep the plate from moving in close enough to get the bolts started. Don't give
up.
It will go.
Next it's time to replace the axle connections to the lower arm and the like. Again, a pain in the rear, but not impossible. Be patient and sober
while
working on this project. You may get frustrated enough to break something. Have a floor jack handy to help move the parts into place. (you will
understand when you get to this point) Trust me.
Patience and diligence pays off. Your car will be lowered in the rear, and you will have accomplished it on your own
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izac
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| posted on August 25th, 2008 at 08:24 PM |
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cheers Gibbo,
yeah I watched the videos and everything before i did it- they are a great help. have worked on the front once and the rear twice now so getting a bit
of experience. i understand the theory and how far one spline is supposed to drop it (outer not quite as far as inner) and where splines should be,
but my problem is that I cant find any middle ground - there doesnt seem to be any teeth to engage with in the point where i want it (perculiar) -
there only seems to be 2 heights - stock and real low.
im looking for the spline in the middle ie the second click, because it seems to be a massive distance between the 2 positions which i have found. ive
tried putting the inner spline back to stock and then moving the outer but it just seems to go to roughly the same place.....
:?
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Brett
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| posted on August 28th, 2008 at 10:16 AM |
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In theory, the smallest change you can make is to go forward with one spline and back with the other. I can not remember which is which but you will
work it out. Go anticlockwise 1 spline on the inside and clockwise 1 spline on the outside and see what that gets you and vice versa if it is not
right.
Hope this helps.
68 bush bashing ex beatle
72 Bush rig ex superbug
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izac
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| posted on August 28th, 2008 at 03:07 PM |
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thanks brett, il give that a go the next time i have a chance to work on it.
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izac
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| posted on August 28th, 2008 at 07:33 PM |
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This the kinda height im looking for... any suggestions on number of splines etc..?
im also looking to get the drivers side floor pan replaced soon by Custom Veedub and hopefully get it converted to IRS...
I havent been given a price yet and have been told ill have to bring it in for them to have a look at (which i havent got around to yet but very soon
hopefully) to get an estimate.... gonna be pretty exy  but should
be worth it 
also planning on putting J-tubes on with the new Thunderbird single muffler and extractors i got it from Mick motors.
any thoughts??
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Brian
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| posted on August 28th, 2008 at 11:19 PM |
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to raise the left side of the car
turn the torsion bar on the inner spline to the right(clockwise),
then turn the spring plate back the same amount on the outer spline
that will change the angle about 1 deg.
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izac
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| posted on September 8th, 2008 at 07:33 PM |
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woohoo! have finally got it where I want it (after the 3rd go!)
turned it back one outer spline on each side, looking nice and level with good clearance but still low 
thanks for all the help
will post pics when i get a chance
next to sort out that fuel leak:smirk
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on September 8th, 2008 at 08:18 PM |
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....been thinking asbout reading this thread for a while......oh well better late than never
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