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Author: Subject:  big bore kit
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posted on October 1st, 2008 at 10:14 AM
big bore kit


i pulled apart my "siezed" 1600tp yesturday and found a conrod sticking out the top of the crank case so i pulled everything apart down to the crank and found that 2 pistons are cracked, 2 cylinders are cracked and one conrod is samashed!! instead of replaing all this with stocko parts i concidered a big bore kit.. what exactly does a big bore kit contain?? and i was told that the biggest i could go without machinig is 1680cc is this right???

can someone give me a bit of info on the topic i.e how to fit, price, advantages disadvantages,




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posted on October 1st, 2008 at 10:52 AM



try a search for 1641, 1776, 1835, 1914 1915 or 1916 in tech forum and am sure you'll find ample info and discussion on pros and cons of kits all the way to building a stroked motor...

the same kind of question is asked fortnightly and the replies are often similar.... has become repetitive...

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posted on October 1st, 2008 at 12:54 PM



Quote:
yesturday and found a conrod sticking out the top of the crank case


If you have a rod out the top of the case, I think you will be throwing most of your engine away.




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posted on October 1st, 2008 at 01:01 PM



Bin it by the sounds of it.

Or better still have a bonfire then put the crankcase on the fire......




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posted on October 1st, 2008 at 01:11 PM



Big bore kits are basically pistons and cylinders with slight large diameter than stock but the outside diameter of the barrals are the same as stock hence it fits in the standard case without having to machine it. However you end up with a barral with a thinner wall which can case warping eventually and usually big bore kits have a short life than stock. As far as I know, the extra "power" you get is not worth having a much shorter engine life. If I recall correctly, the 1641 is 87mm diameter compared to the stock 1600 which has 85.5mm diameter
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posted on October 1st, 2008 at 10:41 PM



The 1680 is an 88 slip in - VERY thin
The 1641 is 87. You hear both sides with this one.

My 1916 has a 20% increase in capacity over a stock 1585 and gives about a 25% extra power.
The only real difference is capacity

A 1641 is 3.5% increase in capacity over a 1585 - so........................

If i had them - use them
Would i pay extra over 85.5's
Nah - Spend your money else where




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posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 11:30 AM



what sort of $$ would i be looking at for a 1641 kit?



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posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 04:15 PM



My turbo (which you saw at the boat ramp) is a 1641. By the carnage you decribed you might be better off ifinding a new engine. The coin will quickly add up once you start replacing bits. They come up here from time to time. I have some bits if you want to rebuild whay you have.
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posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 06:52 PM



about 250 bux for 87mm pistons rings etc
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posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 10:25 PM



can help you out with a set of 92's in great 2nd hand cond. I bought a new set of 94's and don't need them.

this will take you out to an 1835cc but will require some machining.

sounds like your case is shagged anyway, if you're gonna make an improvement, you might as well make it worthwile.




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posted on October 3rd, 2008 at 03:52 PM



thanks guys. the case IS shagged so i put that in the long term to do pile and might weld it up one one day... i got a single port of a fella and he rekkons its got a mild cam in it so im just gonna put my heads on that and see how we go from there - should be able to make one good one out of two shagged ones!!

vwtyp2, where can i get the machining done and what are you asking for the set (pistons and barels?)




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posted on October 3rd, 2008 at 07:51 PM



have fun welding it :) if it's not an as41 case !!!
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posted on October 6th, 2008 at 09:15 AM



whoever you get to rebuild your engine shouls have machine shop contacts, or ask at your friendly local VW parts supplier.
$250 for the set, which includes pistons, barrels, rings, and wrist pins.




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posted on October 7th, 2008 at 12:28 PM



yep absolutely, if you look around you will find a kit cheap....i bought one from the states few years back
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posted on October 7th, 2008 at 12:29 PM



One more thing,

If you can spend the extra $$$ at the workshop and get everything mchined properly. I once didnt bother and ended up with a poor running engine that scored the bored and needed a second rebuild.
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posted on October 7th, 2008 at 02:11 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by marcaant
One more thing,

If you can spend the extra $$$ at the workshop and get everything mchined properly. I once didnt bother and ended up with a poor running engine that scored the bored and needed a second rebuild.


Er... you don't NOT spend the money on proper machining




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posted on October 7th, 2008 at 04:16 PM



will do... any places you recommend getting it done??



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posted on October 18th, 2008 at 01:37 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by baja burley
will do... any places you recommend getting it done??


yeah Australia's best......Stan Pobjoy 02 66543694.




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posted on October 18th, 2008 at 08:15 PM



in brisbane maybe??



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posted on October 18th, 2008 at 08:34 PM



Call a courier... will cost $75 or so for shipping



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posted on October 18th, 2008 at 09:03 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
Australia post will ship a case for about $25 to Pobjoy.................cheaper than getting someone local to stuff it up !
that should stirrrrrrr the natives up:lol:
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posted on October 19th, 2008 at 06:17 PM



I'd be looking carefully at a pre-built 1916 long motor. Save yourself the hassle of organising machining and sourcing parts. Provided you don't drive like the devil himself, you should get plenty of miles.



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posted on October 20th, 2008 at 05:29 PM



probly dont have the cash for a brand new 1916 at the moment!

how many moneys does pobjoy do this kinda machining for??




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posted on October 20th, 2008 at 06:04 PM



you can probably keep the coil :smirk:



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posted on October 25th, 2008 at 05:17 PM



can anyone quote me on this machining - including postage. if i already have the new bore kit

cheers




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posted on October 25th, 2008 at 10:13 PM



I can get it done for budget option for $100 or flash job for $220



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posted on October 25th, 2008 at 10:26 PM



you should seriously budget for a new or 2nd hand crank as well. If its done any smashing of pistons heads and rods then it is going to be shagged as well.



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posted on October 26th, 2008 at 11:46 AM



the only thing i kept off the smashed engine was the heads (dual port) to put on the new single port Motor

Matberry, is that for the crankcase as well as the heads or just the case??? also will you need to see the barrels for dimensions??

cheers
luke




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posted on October 26th, 2008 at 11:50 AM



does anyone know what sort of power id be getting out of an 1835 with say a pair of 36idf's and extractors???



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posted on October 26th, 2008 at 12:07 PM



Mate, no barrels needed, that price for case only.



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