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 jsheppard64
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| posted on October 1st, 2008 at 10:26 PM |
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straight cut or helical gear?
hello all
I'm rebuilding a 1600 and i've got a scat camshaft that needs a separate cam gear now they have the slant gears ones but all i could find was
aluminum ones... and as much light weight as aluminium is i don't want to depend my engine on aluminum teeth so i'm thinking of steel on steel
straight cut...
but people says that they are loud noisy and some say it sounds nice smooth and cool
I've never heard one before so if you have any opinion regarding this matter please post your comment thank you
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hellbugged
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| posted on October 1st, 2008 at 10:33 PM |
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the helical cut aluminium gears will handle what you are asking of them............same as factory.
yes steel on steel straights are loud, and not for everyone, but i manage to live with them every day, sometimes my ears ring a bit tho..........they
sound tough and do have some benefits, but also wear quicker
confused yet?..........
you may be able to hear the difference on some of the short videos from the dyno mania threads
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 vw54
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 07:02 AM |
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straight cuts are LOUD and anoying after a very short time and theres absolutly NO advantage
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 08:43 AM |
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Hi
All factory gears were steel on the crank and alloy on the cam. The advantage of straight cuts is no end thrust, Birchall has no idea.
If you want to go semi straight cuts, get gears from a 36hp motor, they have less angle than a 40hp-1600 gear set, could be hard to find though.
Steve
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vw54
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 09:05 AM |
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| Quote: |
The advantage of straight cuts is no end thrust, Birchall has no idea.
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another LOAD of crap from u as usual
get out to the garage and start working on yr Supper Doooper Project and stop bullshiting as usual
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 09:36 AM |
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Hi
Your display of your lack of understanding anything mechanical or technical is breath taking. So you don't believe that the valve train tension puts
a side load camshaft?
I'm going outside now, arguing with you is like washing a hanky, a waste of time.
Steve
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vw54
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 09:42 AM |
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use a Kleenex instead
it may be quicker for you to wipe up the crap
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 03:01 PM |
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at least i dont wear two pairs of socks, who said anything about fish
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The Stump
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 03:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
straight cuts are LOUD and anoying after a very short time and theres absolutly NO advantage
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Hmmmm...
My 2 cents - love the sound of straight cut (almost like a supercharger sound).
Technically there are fewer losses in straight cut gears when they mesh, so in theory should free up a horsey or 2. Admittedly, the difference in how
much more freely the gears mesh would be near pluck all. Perhaps if you were racing it would be important.
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 10:41 PM |
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i just googled one on youtube i like the sound of it... it's like having the car in reverse (well cause the reverse is straight cut)
it's really nice but the thing is i don't know how long i will like the sound for
this is a big issue coz when i put it in and a month later i decide that i don't like it it means engine rebuild or new engine
arr i'm soo choosey
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hellbugged
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| posted on October 2nd, 2008 at 10:55 PM |
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what do you use the car for?
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 3rd, 2008 at 04:00 PM |
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transporting myself from point A to point B where AB=C... that wasn't funny
i pretty much just use the car to drive around occasionally drag some of my friends
you know hoon around. and with the carby and exhaust done and that's pretty much all I beat a tr magna you'd think with the 2.6 astron efi would
blow u away but it's that heavy
probably too heavy from all the water in the radiator
I've got 32,36 weber on there sorta open it up a bit. I've got custom exhaust aswell got it tested 93dB at 3500rpm
so yeah pretty quiet so if i put straight cut in it'll be pretty much all i can hear
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 3rd, 2008 at 04:05 PM |
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also I work at pizza hut and I'm a delivery boy.. in my 72 super bug with shitty ball joints so when i brake the steering wheel shake
it's not a bad job... i like driving the car around
one thing i wonder about beetle is... i never did see one got pulled over by cops..
i never got pulled over even when i was driving without muffler on so all i had was pretty much extractor and it scream so good
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Flintstones
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| posted on October 3rd, 2008 at 11:42 PM |
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I'd be more concerned about putting the money into new ball joints instead if cam gears!
last thing anyone needs is for you to have an accident with the potential of killing yourself and anyone else for that matter.
Be responsible
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 4th, 2008 at 12:32 AM |
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I'll definitely get the ball joints this pay and if i have enough leftover might buy the cam gears
and i do say to myself all the time be responsible... but the thing is.. responsibility comes with a big price tag and it never ends
and my job doesn't pay that much really i got the car for 500 and i already changed the gearbox fixed rust holes
i enjoy doin it... it's pretty much the easiest car ever except putting the rear torsion bar back on ... it's like you can never get it right
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kmesh
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| posted on October 5th, 2008 at 07:43 PM |
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sounds kinda wierd to me that the ball joints are causing a shudder under braking.
Are you sure its not brake shudder?
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 5th, 2008 at 09:19 PM |
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i'm pretty sure it's not the brake because it happens sometimes when i none of my two feet are on the brake
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Joel
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| posted on October 5th, 2008 at 09:30 PM |
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why try and make it sound ballsy when its not? takes alot more than a cam to spice up a 1600
the noise will drive u nuts after a very short period
i almost need ear plugs for my bug after blatting down the motorway, sux when u can barely hear passengers in the rear seat
spend the money on important safety items first
first port of call with any superbug is all the front and rear bushings and balljoints which u obviuosly know already
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on October 5th, 2008 at 10:10 PM |
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dont put them in.........you will hate it.
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 9th, 2008 at 07:37 PM |
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I ve decided to not use the straight cut gears firstly i couldn't find one and that they are the price of alloy x4 and i couldn't find a shop in
adelaide that has one...even the alloy helical one is kinda chase to find i called one shop and they told me to call another...
anyway i have this greed for power... this engine i'm building have got a progressive weber, scat cam, ratio rockers, custom exhaust, electronic
ignition that's probably all... even though i am not very financially able to finish this engine as fast as i wanted to i was wondering what else
could i have on???
like a set of big valve head or sumthin
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trickysimon
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| posted on October 9th, 2008 at 07:58 PM |
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May as well machine the case and get some bigger pistons and cylinders.
Simon
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 10th, 2008 at 12:22 AM |
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that could cause some problem tho cause then i have to get the case welded where it usually cracks you know that bit at the back of the flywheel...
I'm tempted but i don't think it will be worth it with all the risks... i mean even if i get that section filled up with some alloy there is still
some part of the oil gallories that could crack... if i wanted a bigger engine i would use aftermarket crankcase, shafts, pistons n' rods
but that would cost a fortune
i was thinking big valves head they're like 550 complete new and that would cost more than what i've spent on the engine so far well i got second
hand cam, weber, block, exhaust, bearings all under 500...
i'm looking for a small easything...
i don't think there is much else i can do... with my small budget anyway
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hellbugged
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| posted on October 10th, 2008 at 10:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by jsheppard64
that could cause some problem tho cause then i have to get the case welded where it usually cracks you know that bit at the back of the flywheel...
I'm tempted but i don't think it will be worth it with all the risks... i mean even if i get that section filled up with some alloy there is still
some part of the oil gallories that could crack... if i wanted a bigger engine i would use aftermarket crankcase,
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rubbish
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 11th, 2008 at 12:06 AM |
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maybe... i just wanna keep it 1584cc maybe i could play with the compression ratio
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Joel
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| posted on October 11th, 2008 at 08:57 PM |
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id be careful doing that
remember fuel quality today isnt wat it used to be
if u want to unleash some power take of the 2 main restrictions - carb and exhaust
decent header and pair of kadrons make for a zippy run around if the engines healthy enough
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 11th, 2008 at 10:38 PM |
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a pair of kadrons... would wouldn't be a lot better than 32 36 would it? i mean compare to 200 i spent for the progressive and maybe 700 for a pair
of kadron would the kadron be worth extra 500 dollar??
(keep in mind 500 means a lot to me coz i get like 9 an hour where i work)
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Joel
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| posted on October 12th, 2008 at 08:11 AM |
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2nd hand kaddies are around cheap just keep ur eyes out on here and ebay
i sold a good working set for $250 a few weeks ago there not worth more than $400 2nd hand and if u can sell ur prog on ebay for $200 again ur halfway
there
any twin carb set is gonna crap all over a single and ur talking twin 40mm carbs vs a 32/36 that has a really long manifold which doesnt do
performance any real favours
a step backwards if theres no manifold heat
the progressives dont really do that much over a stock carb. if ur gonna stay single centermount then to make it worth while better off going a
syncronis twin throat like IDF, DCN or dell DRLA with good preheat
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 12th, 2008 at 10:10 PM |
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well i've got a pair of solex 32-36 pdsit 2 and 3 out of a type 3
would it be as good as 32/36 or worse?
i like my progressive coz i got it jetted just right and it looks cool because i'm not using DFEV i'm using DGAV where the butterfly spins the other
way so i had to make extra linkages and i made an air box on the carb that connects to the pod filter.
but twins kadron would definitely be better but running one carb already gave me too much annoyance.. i'm one of those people who just can't live
things the way they are
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jsheppard64
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| posted on October 15th, 2008 at 09:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
2nd hand kaddies are around cheap just keep ur eyes out on here and ebay
i sold a good working set for $250 a few weeks ago there not worth more than $400 2nd hand and if u can sell ur prog on ebay for $200 again ur halfway
there
any twin carb set is gonna crap all over a single and ur talking twin 40mm carbs vs a 32/36 that has a really long manifold which doesnt do
performance any real favours
a step backwards if theres no manifold heat
the progressives dont really do that much over a stock carb. if ur gonna stay single centermount then to make it worth while better off going a
syncronis twin throat like IDF, DCN or dell DRLA with good preheat
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i have a pair of solex 32-34 pdsit would they be better than single progressive 32/36
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 matberry
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| posted on October 16th, 2008 at 03:39 PM |
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I'd go the progressive over the dual PDSIT's, much less hassle (if you can get the tune up right).
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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