Posts: 260
Threads: 90
Registered: October 17th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 2nd, 2008 at 08:08 AM
half done
Okay, so I know I'm kidding myself, this isn't half done. More like a third.
Here's the progress on my swap.
Frame mods - scalloped the rear horns, bigger shiftedr hole, trimmed the inside of the horns, fitted IRS pivot boxes, welded it all up.
Gearbox went in without any drama. Too much angle but I can sort that later.
The engine put up a big fight...didn't want to mate up properly, didn't clear the body, forklift wasn't going, couldn't hold the gearbox and
engine up independently without the rear mount in situ, supposed to be somewhere else, wife phoning every ten minutes...eventually got it under
control without punching anything.
liam66
Officially Full-On Dubber
Posts: 260
Threads: 90
Registered: October 17th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 2nd, 2008 at 09:06 AM
The list still to do; (this'll scare me!)
Sump. under control. Be on before next weekend.
Exhaust- I'mputting the turbo out the back, so it'll hang way out there...bought a wrx 3 inch stainless kit of ebay- under $400 with a catalytic
converter and 2 mufflers- chop this up add a few bends and then reconsider if it was a good idea!
Intercooler- not sure if I'll go water or air. Water currently winning, but air is less hassle/ more compact. Tempted to cut a big hole where the
back seat should be on put a massive one there with fans behind- look cool but not very efficient/practical. still undecided. Might try putting a bend
in a stock top mount.
Rear barwork reworked to clear everthing.Going to incorporate engine cradle and rear strengthening up to rollcage- so lets change rework to start from
scratch.
Oil filter relocated, now the lowest part, so it's got to go.Try to squeeze oil cooler back in there somwhere.
Fuel tank modified for wrx in tank pump. extra lines etc Might have to remake the whole tank for radiator cooling space.
clutch- convert cable operation to hydraullic- any one know what master cylinder is needed?
Radiator-hmmm...this'll be interesting. Almost certain it'll have to be front mounted. Very little space horrizontally to tank.
Electrical- shouldn't be too hard (that's code for give the whole lot to sparky mate - here you go sport, it's your box of frogs now)
Shifter- not entirely sold on the setup I've got, but I'll give that a go and can always change it later.
Axles in- got bus cv's at the gearbox, need to swap the lower Cv's and stubs out for bus ones as well.
Front brakes- has discs, but will certainly need bigger ones.
Front spindles- need to get some lifted ones from somewhare. Too much lift on the front beam is making it a bit twitchy.
Turbo- gone to a different turbo, plus with relocation, the oil lines will need reworking.
Alternator- need another and have to make offset mounts.
Plumbing, catch cans etc- shouldn't be too hard. Making it look neatish might take more than 1 go.
Build s tronger gearbox- only a matter of time before I need this really.
pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
23 Windows of Awesome
Posts: 6828
Threads: 389
Registered: January 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Nth Nth StMarys, Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro White
Mood: upgrades = jackstands
posted on November 2nd, 2008 at 10:13 AM
great start.
just a qu though, why did you have to clearance the horns so much? Mine aren't clearanced at all and I've never had any contact between the CVs and
horns.
re the radiator, the stock subaru one I have fits under the front of the car just.
The bottom of the rad is just higher than the beam. That said my car has 5 inches of extra body height so you might need something a bit different to
mine I guess.
If I might make another suggestion, triangulating the horns and shock mounts (cup brace or similar) and joining them to your rear cage would be a
great idea too. Other wise the horns and the shock mounts will flex all over the place. Especially with the turbo motor.
Posts: 439
Threads: 30
Registered: January 14th, 2003
Member Is Offline
Location: Newcastle
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 2nd, 2008 at 10:15 AM
Nice work. I see you had a bit of orange left over to go on the engine!
As for the clutch,a re you using the CNC slave pull cylinder? For the master cyl i just used a universal trailer master cyl, i think it was 3/4" but
i'll have to check. Its mounted next to the brake master cyl with a longer actuator mounted to the clutch pedal.
I ended up going water to air intercooler, still had trouble getting the WTA intercooler to fit, i got a GT4 celica cooler because i thought it would
fit better than he subaru one, it did but not good enough, so ended up getting a PWR barrel cooler. I will have the celica one on ebay soon, it might
help you out more than me depending on where your pipes go i guess.
Sharbuilt Beach buggy with Subaru 2L Turbo
Thunderanch Riot with Subaru 2L Turbo
Manxter with FA20turbo Click here for wiring looms
liam66
Officially Full-On Dubber
Posts: 260
Threads: 90
Registered: October 17th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 2nd, 2008 at 03:03 PM
Pete, I started on mounting the gearbox before I had the mounting kit (boredom plus plasma torch...) and looking at pics of some US installs they
looked a lot lower.
Yes the bracing will be from the front and rear of the frame horns to the shock mounts, between the shock mounts and as well as an engine cradle and
braced to the cage and rear bar.
Thought I might cut out the number plate recess looking section for some air flow, a couple of big thin fans in a shrowd and then shield the tank or
make ducting away if space allows. otherwise the tanks got to go (and become a different shape)
Yes the bracing will be from the front and rear of the frame horns to the shock mounts, between the shock mounts and as well as an engine cradle and
braced to the cage and rear bar.
I have a three inch body lift but it still looks lots lower than yours. not sure whats going on there. I'm assuming you cut this section out ( under
the bonnet, in front of the tank)
An xj jeep cherokee 6cylinder radiator is looking pretty good otherwise ( fat, wide , low and cheap)
Got it back on the ground today (needed the hoist) Haven't set the suspension up and its all cockeyed, pushing the passenger front right down. At
least it's some progress.
Ratbug, yes plenty of orange tinter left, haha, got carried away while waiting on parts.
Pull cylinder is an empi, so probably a direct copy of the CNC (without the good quality) thanks fopr the trailor cylinder tip. I'll see what I can
find. Intercooler piping can go anywhere at the moment.
pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
23 Windows of Awesome
Posts: 6828
Threads: 389
Registered: January 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Nth Nth StMarys, Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro White
Mood: upgrades = jackstands
posted on November 3rd, 2008 at 07:39 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by liam66
Pete, I started on mounting the gearbox before I had the mounting kit (boredom plus plasma torch...) and looking at pics of some US installs they
looked a lot lower.
boredom + plasma torch
Re clearance... actually I've now got a US 10deg kit (although modded so it's flat now) and the whole tranny/motor sits about 20mm lower than before
and still doesn't have clearance probs round the CVs.
Quote:
Yes the bracing will
be from the front and rear of the frame horns to the shock mounts, between the shock mounts and as well as an engine cradle and braced to the cage and
rear bar.
Good stuff.
Quote:
I have a three inch
body lift but it still looks lots lower than yours. not sure whats going on there. I'm assuming you cut this section out ( under the bonnet, in front
of the tank)
Again, no, all the fibreglass is still there. I hate cutting bits out of the body...not sure why after all the mods I've done in the past but there
you go. I'll try and crawl under the car and take some shots of it for you. Suffice to say, it's jammed right up again the tank (with some rubber to
stop rubbing of course) and seems to work really well. The only thing I want to do now is make up some panels for the sides to create more suction
behind the radiator. It's probably not needed but you know how it is. Anything to improve it a little more.
I think in reality, that front bar is going need to be modded or thrown away. I assume it will be similar for the rear engine cage.
BTW, the car looks awesome. I wish I'd done something like that to begin with. Again a credit to your skills and workmanship.
Posts: 3119
Threads: 94
Registered: August 26th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Content
posted on November 3rd, 2008 at 09:34 AM
Your notching of the frame horns was way too much. You've made them half as strong as they were before. You better do something else to strengthen
them.
Don't worry, just re-read your post and noticed this;
Quote:
Yes the bracing will
be from the front and rear of the frame horns to the shock mounts, between the shock mounts and as well as an engine cradle and braced to the cage and
rear bar.
Notching the frame horns weakens them a lot. Welding back in a thick bit of steel doesn't really help because you've reduced the thickness of the
horn so much in the bending direction. I have attached a pic as an example (a rough comparison of a frame horn cross-section, notched and un-notched).
The original shape on the left is twice as strong as that on the right.
Error
Sorry, you must be a registered user in order to download attachments.
Posts: 3764
Threads: 332
Registered: August 24th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: SE QLD, Mt Nebo
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Manx Buggy Building
posted on November 3rd, 2008 at 11:39 AM
I think you will find that Pete added like 3 " to his floor pan as a lift kit and like 4" or so, maybe more to his body in fiberglass which is why
it is so much higher than yours.
So what sump plans do you have ? Making your own ?
When you put the radiator up the front don't forget to shield the fuel tank as I didn't at first and was surprised at how hot it got.
Have you considered putting it on the back? I know some of the guys up here are doing it like the Manxter with a wing and the results seem to be
pretty good. There will be at least one at Buggy Fest this weekend for a look. There will no doubt be quite a few EJ buggies there if you want to
check some out.
With your in TB, I see you have flipped the intake around and are moving your alternator and running a turbo at the rear. What sort of IC are you
going to fit in ? Most of them seem to keep a front facing TB so they can come out and around into an IC and then into the Turbo. What’s your plan ?
I am at the same stage with my EJ 25T and am looking at all sorts of wacky options. At this stage I will be leaving teh TB stock and running a WAIC
from the RS with stock style plumbing. The flow rate of the WAIC isn't great but it takes up more room than a PWR /ARE unit so when I upgrade
everything else should fit.
If you go A2A IC you will might find it pretty hard to get the flow rate for it to work properly. If you go WAIC you have to fit another damn
radiator, but I guess at least you can put it in front of the engine radiator, but more pipes to run. Maybe you can get a A2A IC which mounts like a
wing of something then you could stand the TB upright, turn it back around, leave alternator in the stock location and go through your fiberglass to
the IC and back into the turbo ?? Dunno, to many options not enough space.
What ECU are you ground to run ? Staying with the AFM or getting a MAP ? If AFM just another thing to fit into your induction system. Damn it never
ends.
Reading your post has reminded me just how much more I have to do .. 2010 is the year of the Buggy though so I only have a year to get it all sorted.
Posts: 6828
Threads: 389
Registered: January 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Nth Nth StMarys, Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro White
Mood: upgrades = jackstands
posted on November 3rd, 2008 at 06:25 PM
here are a few pics of my radiator setup. Brad was on the money re body lift. I glassed in an extra FIVE inches so my body has an extra 50mm on
yours...read 50mm of extra useless weight. Should have done a lift kit, but at the time I wasn't the wiser.
Anyway, here are the pics. First two are from the pass side looking in...
The last one is the lower side of the driver side. You'd be surprised how well the small amount of air the rad gets cools it.
Hope this helps in some way.
Error
Sorry, you must be a registered user in order to download attachments.
Error
Sorry, you must be a registered user in order to download attachments.
Error
Sorry, you must be a registered user in order to download attachments.
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
Bishop of Volkswagenism
Hairy Gutted Sloth
Posts: 3389
Threads: 29
Registered: September 6th, 2003
Member Is Offline
Location: TownsvilleTropical North QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Grow a brain...walls don't hit back...
posted on November 3rd, 2008 at 07:27 PM
Looks like yer overflow is screwed Pete.....
tssnq.com.au
GeorgeL
Officially Full-On Dubber
Posts: 231
Threads: 11
Registered: February 5th, 2006
Member Is Offline
Location: 7200 miles off the Queensland coast
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 4th, 2008 at 04:23 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by Baja Wes
Your notching of the frame horns was way too much. You've made them half as strong as they were before. You better do something else to strengthen
them.
Don't worry, just re-read your post and noticed this;
Quote:
Yes the bracing will
be from the front and rear of the frame horns to the shock mounts, between the shock mounts and as well as an engine cradle and braced to the cage and
rear bar.
Notching the frame horns weakens them a lot. Welding back in a thick bit of steel doesn't really help because you've reduced the thickness of the
horn so much in the bending direction. I have attached a pic as an example (a rough comparison of a frame horn cross-section, notched and un-notched).
The original shape on the left is twice as strong as that on the right.
Note that the strength depends upon the thickness of the material on both the top and bottom of the frame horn. Welding in a thick plate on the top
doesn't change much because the lower radius is still the same thickness.
Now, double the thickness of the lower radius and you will gain strength, but that is rather tough to do!
Another approach is to add a semi-circular doubler to the bottom that extends the same distance below the existing metal as the cutout depth. This
would restore the strength of the arm at the cost of a bit of ground clearance.
pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
23 Windows of Awesome
Posts: 6828
Threads: 389
Registered: January 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Nth Nth StMarys, Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro White
Mood: upgrades = jackstands
posted on November 4th, 2008 at 12:13 PM
some U section the width of the horns welded up against it would make a lot of difference. Be the same effect as adding vertical gussets to the sides
of the horns. Anyway, I'm sure Liam66 will figure it out. He's very used to building offroad machines.
Posts: 260
Threads: 90
Registered: October 17th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
posted on November 4th, 2008 at 06:35 PM
Thanks for the replies, lots to consider.
I'm not too worried about the rear frame rails- the cage setup I have in mind will make them pretty redundant, plus I can plate the underneath
without a lot of drama. I'd still like to drop the engine down a bit.
Time is the problem though. New job means no workshop time during the week and limit time on weekends. Maybe 6 or 8 hours a week max- not happy
jan.
Yes and no Brad- got a sharpebuilt sump at the right price and going to do a few mods to that (extra baffles, maybe skid the bottom,differnt drain)
Got a mate doing some awesome skids for 4wd's, trailbikes and quads with whats basically chopping block plastic - it's cheap(ish), surprisingly
strong, light, easy to form and nicely slippery. It's not a very scientific test but A) a 10mm peice will stop a 22 bullet and B) his staffy can
barely mark the surface of a 30 x 30 x 100 offcut rubbed with bacon.
Pete, thanks for the pics, I think I'll cut a peice out of the front panel, It instantly gives me 4 inches of clearance back...J and S bodies really
dont lend themselves to radiators...
Brad, that intake is just sitting there, not sure which way I'll put it- still a big jisaw puzzle. I've chopped up the water manifold and reversed
it.
Have you thought of running two smallish intercoolers either side? I'm seriously considering two skyline units with scoops and no fans- perverse idea
is to get two wrx bonnet scoops and blend them vertically into the body in front of the rear wheels then duct through the coolers.
It'll be standard computer for the moment. With not much weight, later sti turbo, a bunch of turbosmart goodies, small alternator, small pulley, no
power steer, no aircon, short fat exhaust and mudtyres I think it'll be dangerous enough. Plus the gearbox is still a weaklink. Although there's
some nice apexi power FC units on ebay....
boredom + plasma torch 
