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Author: Subject:  Clutch forks and clutch
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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 05:00 PM
Clutch forks and clutch


I am currently replacing my gearbox(again) and was wondering which out of the 3 below would be best.
I am using a 4 puk clutch plate and heavy duty pplate(not sure on pressure to use?)
pic 1 is the current box(broken)
pic 2 looks to be the strongest
pic 3 is on the box I am going to use(temporarily LOL)
1.current fork
http://i34.tinypic.com/fodrvk.jpg
2.Option A
http://i34.tinypic.com/335f72h.jpg
3.Option B
http://i38.tinypic.com/334qn2q.jpg
Clutch plate
http://i34.tinypic.com/21din1g.jpg




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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 05:18 PM



The current throw-out bearing is designed for a pressure plate with exposed fingers (no collar).

The other two are for the collared pressure plates.

The throw-out has to match the pressure plate. The guide tube that the first throw-out is on can't be used with a collared pressure plate.




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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 05:22 PM



The current fork picture on top is also able to be easily fitted with the later longer clutch lever, the earlier ones may also be fitted but I am not 100.

The TB retaining springs on the later ones ie current for also seem to work much better than the earlier ones offroad.




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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 05:25 PM



The current fork picture on top is also able to be easily fitted with the later longer clutch lever, the earlier ones may also be fitted but I am not 100.

The TB retaining springs on the later ones ie current for also seem to work much better than the earlier ones offroad.




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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 05:50 PM



Remember that the stronger the clutch, the harder on the gear box it is.

I'd stick with the same clutch you were using, no one I know has run elevens on a stock tranny!!

Yes I agree, the set up in the first pic is best, but appears to be a very late model swingaxle
so wont just "bolt in" to your replacement.

Excellen core for a better box (unless schrapnel has killed it!)

Your replacement has the early throwout bearing so must use a collar on the pressure plate.
At least it has the better aftermarket clips, but not the best in the long run.

You can improve any fork set up by fully welding the bearing arms to the shaft.
Stock is just spot welded,
or in the middle pic an aftermarket replacement that comes fully welded.

That middle clutch fork should blt into your replacement box.
A bronze bush would be a nice improvement too.




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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 05:52 PM



Actually in that last pic, only one of the clips is the good aftermarket ones!



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posted on November 4th, 2008 at 06:12 PM



I have removed the clutch it was worn REAL Bad same with the pplate(was also a 4 puk has been in for 7 years and 3 g'boxes)
I realise I need a stronger box and I'm working on it(anyone want to buy a moke??)LOL

I have a couple of dead ones the same as the first pic so hopefully at least one of the cases is allright

At the moment I just want to get it running for the weekend No racing Dave

I'm guessing that a new pplate will have the collar that can removed?

So I'm assumeing that I should use the second fork(it is welded all the way around)




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posted on November 5th, 2008 at 06:24 AM



Most clutches the collar can be removed.
Some have a removable clip that holds the collar,
but for some there is no easy way to add a collar later.
The Kennedy clutches have a spiro lock that holds the ring, which makes it easy for both types.

...BUT YOU WANT ONE NOW, WITH A COLLAR, (for use with the fork in the second pic)




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posted on November 5th, 2008 at 03:42 PM



Cheers Dave and others
now to go back out in the rain




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