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Author: Subject:  What is this?
Memberjoshuah
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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 05:39 PM
What is this?


Hi,

I'm new here and have just bought a 2nd hand bug to do up as a project.

I thought it was a 1972 1300, but i am now not so sure.

It's chassis number is 1122283911, which i believe means it's a '72 Model, but the Engine number is: AS177355, which doesn't match what the model should have.

I'm assuming the engine is not an original and on this site ( http://www.type2.com/b"artnik/enginecodes.htm  ) i found that the AS prefix means "Sometimes listed as Super Beetle orig. case for '73-on."

What cc engine would it be? How do i tell. Badging on the engine lid is 1300...

Any ideas?

I posted a couple of pics of the enging and one front-on as well.

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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 06:44 PM



its a 72 superbug not a 1300
engine is a 1600 from a later Lbug or 76 pov pak bug

its useless looking at US sites to get info on aussie bugs
ours were built to different specs than theres
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info.gif posted on November 25th, 2008 at 07:56 PM



You have a 1302S Super beetle

Engine looks like a late 1600 with the plastic air cleaner
from 1975 VW year model 1303s beetle..
but it has a generator NOT a regulator from the late engine.
1= replace the 4 spark plug rubber grommets ASAP..
cooling air is escaping thru these holes

2=Hole should be cover over - HOT Air from under the
engine can overheat the engine

3=Fuel filter should NOT be in the engine bay - move it to under the fuel tank in the front or above the LHS rear wheel where the metal fuel line comes out of the chassis

the fuel filter can cause the metal pipe in the carburetor or the fuel pump to come loose and fuel on exhaust causes the car to burn.. also carry a fire extinguisher

4 = check the hoses aren't cut where they go thru the tinware.. these look like oil hoses - engine must have another oil cooler or oil filter at the other end of the hoses

so, its most probably a 1600cc engine...

recommended books - the John Muir book for the compleat idiot - can't remember its full title - "compleat" is spelt like that on the cover...
Haynes workshop and owners manuals Super Beetle 1302s
the VW & transporter manual as shown in this photo.
the Bentley manual for 1302s Super beetle [USA]

cheers

LEE

Joel, No such thing as a pov pak 1976 beetle...
it was the ONLY one made.. had front disc brakes, IRS rear end, 1600 engine, padded dash... chrome trim..
it was just a better beetle than the superceded 1303S... Lee

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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 08:31 PM



That's great Info! Thanks Joel and Lee.

As you can probably gather, I'm not too well versed on the Beetle, but I am learning. Is there a source somewhere where i can decipher the model myself? What do features do I look for?

I am hunting for a book at the moment and the suggestions are great. I just hope i don't have the winning bid for the 1300 workshop manuals now... Is the Engine standard for the 1302? Will i need a separate book that covers engine/transmission?

One thing I do notice about this engine, is the lack of large air hoses/ducts (?) that are visible on most engines I have seen. The metal pipes have been blocked off. Is this a problem, or just hot air for the passenger cabin? The workshop manuals will help me, no doubt.

Any more thoughts, i'm all ears.

Thanks so much.




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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 09:23 PM



Correct. The holes that are blocked off used to have hoses connected for cabin heating. The two levers either side of the E brake are the heater controls. It is poses no problems and many Beetles have this disconnected. As long as the engine tin part is well blocked off its fine.

I have a 72 Super with a AS.... stamped 1600 block. Its identical to your engine.(except a lot safer. Do what Lee suggested NOW!) I figured it was a late 75 or later 1600. If your spare tire is lying flat its a Super not a standard. The 1970 and on super also had McPherson struts fitted to the front end and the double jointed (two CV joints) rear axle replaced the early style swing arm. The 1970 to 1972 1302 and 1302S had standard 1285cc and 1584cc motors fitted.
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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 10:33 PM



the engine in it now is the same as what it came from the factory with its just one out of a later model
probably about mid 75 going by the engine number

its a bitsa engine and parts from a few different ones on it there but thats one joy u will find with bugs is alot of parts are interchangeable cos not alot changed over the years

alien8, we never got 1300 superbugs in aus they were only availble in 1600. the 1302 model with 1300 twinport was a european thing

Lee, i know theres no pov pak so to speak in 76 i just call them that cos they are that... a standard bug with a 70 year old tractor design front end :lol:

theyre actualy known as the badgeless model
thats how pov they were only badges they got were in the hubcaps :crazy:
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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 10:45 PM



Sorry my mistake.That figures as my source is from the UK (my old man). Apparently there was a LS model "Luxury" something or other Dad was saying. Were they a European only model as well?
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posted on November 25th, 2008 at 11:17 PM



There was an "L" and an "S" model super beetle. "S" standing for Super beetle and "L" standing for Luxury. S bugs were beetles made in 1971 and 1972 before the introduction of the L bug in 1973. You can tell them apart as they have either the S or the L on the engine lid or by looking at the front windscreen. L bugs have a curved windscreen, whereas S bugs have a flat windscreen like any other beetle. Engine lid on Josh's beetle should have an S on it, not 1300.



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posted on November 26th, 2008 at 12:22 AM



is it a flat windscreen or curve one?? looks curvy in the pic
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posted on November 26th, 2008 at 12:42 AM



Nah definately flat screen. It has badge on boot lid as well which (correct me if I'm wrong) was removed in 73.



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posted on November 26th, 2008 at 06:53 AM



Righto,

Well, i can tell you it has a flat windshield. Its spare does lie flat. It has the double cv boots per rear axle and front McPherson struts.

It also has an engine oil leak, a clutch that only partially de-clutches, a hydraulic brake leak, a missing spare and a few patches/bubbles of rust on the body (underside good). As such, it aint going anywhere and it's on jack-stands ready to be repaired. And i also need to fix those item Lee kindly pointed out. Thanks, Lee.

Also, i'm not sure the rear bonnet lid is the original, as the paint there is a lot fresher than on the rest of the vehicle, so i can't vouch for the badging.

But based on all the info above, though, it's 1972 1302S (?) with a 1600 motor. Is that right?

And, is this an Australian manufactured Beetle?

In any case, I'll now look for a Haynes 1302 workshop manual or equivalent.

Thanks for the help. It's really great!




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posted on November 26th, 2008 at 08:02 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by joshuah
But based on all the info above, though, it's 1972 1302S (?) with a 1600 motor. Is that right?

And, is this an Australian manufactured Beetle?




yup bang on the money
just known as a 1600 superbug S in aus tho
and yes its aus built

im bit rusty on euro specs but from memory the LS was top of the line Cabrios
altho some hard tops have popped up like the gold one in FS section

VW aust just went S bug and L Bug to differeniate between the 2 cos they were both the luxery model
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posted on December 19th, 2008 at 10:05 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
3= fuel filter should NOT be in the engine bay - move it to under the fuel tank in the front or above the LHS rear wheel where the metal fuel line comes out of the chassis

Lee


wow thats some in depth advice, good to see :tu::tu:

but one quick question? why not have the fuel filter in the engine bay?? i thought it makes sense to have it right before the pump and carby, always had mine here. makes it easy to check for fuel flow, blockages, and how clean it is. so its not out of sight out of mind




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posted on December 19th, 2008 at 10:18 PM



filter rubs against items/ heat and age gets to them, the split and next thing you have is a fire in the engine bay. move it down near the tank or gearbox.



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posted on December 19th, 2008 at 10:30 PM



Hi

The best manual I feel is the one by Robert Bentley, even though its US based its very good, most other VW manuals are a joke with their lack of detail.

Steve
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posted on December 20th, 2008 at 03:36 PM



Hey Bodo, havent seen u on for ages
the other problem with having them in the engine bay is ppl put them between the fuel pump and the carby which is a big no-no

those plastic $2 filters that everyone insists on using arent made to be on the pressure side of the pump so like barls said they can split once the plastic gets abit brittle
also the pump tends to force the crap thro the paper element anyway cos its meant to be sucked thro

and the added weight of it swinging off the carb pulls the brass fitting out and sprays fuel everywhere
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posted on January 6th, 2009 at 11:20 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Hey Bodo, havent seen u on for ages
the other problem with having them in the engine bay is ppl put them between the fuel pump and the carby which is a big no-no

those plastic $2 filters that everyone insists on using arent made to be on the pressure side of the pump so like barls said they can split once the plastic gets abit brittle
also the pump tends to force the crap thro the paper element anyway cos its meant to be sucked thro

and the added weight of it swinging off the carb pulls the brass fitting out and sprays fuel everywhere


hey man, yeah long time no see, been busy and elsewhere. well all very valid points. id never put in after the pump anyways, but other than that, i change all filters etc far too often for them to degrade, and its not a daily driver so ill keep it where it is, or i will forget about it (not to mention its sitting motionless under my carport, and will be for a while, till i get funds and time to rebuild the old gurl).




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info.gif posted on January 7th, 2009 at 12:03 AM
a HOT VW exhaust and petrol don't mix


I have seen the fuel filter pull the copper pipe out of the fuel pump and the car was burnt out...

so it doesn't matter what the filter was made from...
plastic- steel - aluminium - they all weigh similar when filled with fuel.. and the constant vibration can loosen the pipe

or no hose clamps or old fuel lines = FIRE

and I hear of beetles or Kombies being burnt Every year...

needlessly...

Lee

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