| [ Total Views: 664 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 73682 ] |
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 NuZo
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 01:03 PM |
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After long Drives! Struggles to turn on!
ok once agian its me!!! with another inquiry!
After long drives in my '69 1500, the car struggles to turn on. like for example.
i drove from fivedock to penrith on a hot day, but not extreamly hot, but it was hot on the road...
when we stopped at penrith maccas for about 10 mins, i jumped back in and tryed starting. but it seamed like it just wouldnt spark, u could hear the
engine turning over, it went on for about 30 seconds, eventualy it started with me aiding it by pumping the pedel a little bit. but it took overall
30-40 seconds to start. now by all means i checked the enige and what not, and it was nowhere neer overheated. and iv gotten the car alot hotter
thrashing it around fivedock and it works fine. its only after long drives that it ever happends. like... it happends almost every long distance
drive, so my question is! what casuing this? could it be the prolonged speed of 80-100km/h for over an hour? could it be the oil isnt doing its job
properly? no smoke or anything comes out the back of it, no odd smells, just takes a while to start!!! so! does this happen to everyone! or is it
something random!?!?!
any ideas!! i hate it when ppl look at ur beetle like its a peice of shit because after a long drive it takes a while to start! Augh they can goto
hell!!!
newais! help plz 
Cheers all!!
NuZo
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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karmann crazy
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 01:19 PM |
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.
i had a car which sort of did the same, could never fix it, its probably a fuel vapour lock which means air getting in the fuel lines, sometimes just
keeping the fuel line off the hot tinware can fix it but hey, like i said, i tried everything with mine and no go, i just put up with it but it was
more like 10 secs before starting with mine
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 04:21 PM |
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Air-cooled VWs have always had a problem starting when hot; it was noted by writers in road tests of the day, even in brand new VWs. It's simply one
of their endearing characteristics. All you can do is minimise the effect.
1. Check all your fuel lines from front to back. Clean the little tank screen. At the rear, make sure the rubber fuel hose is in good, new condition
and is routed away from hot tinware. Make sure the rubber grommet is in place where the fuel line goes through the front tinware. If you have an
aftermarket inline fuel filter, make sure it is fitted AFTER the fuel pump, not before - that is, in between the pump and the carb. Before the pump is
a low-pressure region as the pump is sucking. Remember that fluids boil at a lower temperature in lower pressure areas - which means vapour lock.
Clean the fuel pump screen.
2. Fit an ignition module such as the Compufire or similar in place of the stock points. They provide a more reliable spark and last longer. If
problems persist, you can fit a fully electronic ignition system for more zap - see your VW parts supplier.
3. You could make a thicker carb-manifold gasket to reduce the heat transfer to the carb.
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Joel
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 04:24 PM |
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welcome to the wonderful world of carburetted engines 
best way to get them going like that is without pumping crank over at WOT and release once it starts
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 barls
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 06:07 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Phil74Camper
1. Check all your fuel lines from front to back. Clean the little tank screen. At the rear, make sure the rubber fuel hose is in good, new condition
and is routed away from hot tinware. Make sure the rubber grommet is in place where the fuel line goes through the front tinware. If you have an aftermarket inline fuel filter, make sure it is fitted AFTER the fuel pump, not before - that is, in between the pump
and the carb. Before the pump is a low-pressure region as the pump is sucking. Remember that fluids boil at a lower temperature in lower
pressure areas - which means vapour lock. Clean the fuel pump screen.
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the highlighted section is the worst advice ive heard. no offence phil but the fuel filter in the engine bay is the cause of 90% of the engine fires
ive seen in bugs.
its fairly common this and is the stupidest thing i see. heres the thread about it from the last months
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=70082&page=1#pid654577
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Joel
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 06:34 PM |
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ditto what barls said
the only time vw ever used plastic fuel filters in bugs was the last of the Lbugs and it was fitted to the flexible section between the tank and frame
head
i was in total shock when i found my blue Lbug still had the original 73 hose, filter and crimp on vw clamps
lets just say it was somewhat blocked....
the down side to nanna bugs
those plastic filters are made to be on the suction side of pumps not the pressure side
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t2
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 07:41 PM |
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this may or may not help but can not hurt to check anyway
what carb do you have?
if its a 34pict 3 ,could your choke need adjusting?
or maybe a small air leak in the manifold, check the rubber boots for splits in them from the hose clamps
gravity wont get you high
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 07:48 PM |
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buy some hood jacks from vwcool , they will keep the heat off the engine
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NuZo
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 07:57 PM |
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haha ok cheers all for ur replies!! the engine has only just been redone with all rubber seals and that all replaced! i would buy hood jax! BUT!! for
the time being, i dont want some sticky beak looking down there and fidleing with stuff!!! as for the carbie! i have no idea!! 1969 1500cc stock
carbie as far as i kno...! fuel filter is nowere neer the engine and
if its just one of those things! then thats fine i guess i can live
with that! but i like the idea of that ignition system! mmmz!! more pondering!
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eraser
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 09:01 PM |
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My orig 1968 autostick (1600 dual port) used to have this issue big time, i tried everything i installed a compufire, it made life better but still
was a pain in the butt at times. I also tried a Truck battery to give plenty of spin  again not a huge difference but did make it better again, i also put some form of ford solenoid in on the starter motor again made
things better but still could be a pain in the ass :P.
This new 1970 autostick (1500 single port) doesn't seem to have any problems with this, but then i haven't driven it for too long.
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greedy53
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 09:01 PM |
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are you still using heat risers on jt and i had a very problemon my bus turned out that the electrical current was droping a new relay fixed it good
luck
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NuZo
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 10:42 PM |
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my sisters semi-auto '72 is a pain in the ass most of the time, its really moody! if it rains GL HF starting it !! lolz.... it also had a really bad
ideling problem, but it fixed itself :S most of the time its fine tho! and a real treat to drive its good having 2 different types of beetles! they might look similar, but their completely different cars!!!
the '72 semi-auto has never had the long distance trip problem.
also, any one kno semi-auto's gear ratio's... i wana see the difference between "2nd" in the auto compared to "4th" in the manual and see which
would be better for the longer trips. my guess is the manual 4th, but hey! it wouldnt hurt to chek it out!
Cheers agian for replys will look into wiring and see were that takes me!
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eraser
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 11:24 PM |
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I know the Semi auto in second has no problem doing 160
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Phil74Camper
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on December 31st, 2008 at 07:25 AM |
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You guys are right, I know that cheap aftermarket fuel filters (badly installed) are the major cause of engine fires. Ditto loose hose connections and
loose or missing clamps. No argument from me!
However I was only commenting on an aftermarket filter contributing to vapour lock. A fluid under a lower pressure will vapourise at a lower
temperature; this is why you can boil water at 40 deg C on top of Mt Everest. In a fuel line, particularly around the hot engine, if you slow the fuel
with a filter on the low pressure side of the pump, you have more chance of vapour lock. This is probably why VW mount a suction-side filter at the
front, well away from the engine heat.
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greedy53
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| posted on December 31st, 2008 at 11:01 AM |
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true good call all avenus should be looked at
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