| [ Total Views: 1051 | Total Replies: 4 | Thread Id: 74175 ] |
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 paladin
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
Posts: 79
Threads: 12
Registered: January 1st, 2009
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Location: Kenmore, Brisbane
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Mood: Abandoning my search for truth and now looking for a good fantasy.
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| posted on January 19th, 2009 at 06:13 PM |
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Tinware terrors
Hey again lads!
Well, have just tried to fit the missing bit of tinware in my engine bay to help with cooling, and I think I know why it's missing! The standard
tinware just doesn't seem to fit neatly.
Is there any reason that you blokes can see why there'd be such a huge gap at the bottom? In this pic I haven't wiggled it down all the way, but
even when I get it flush with the other tinware, There's a gap of about 2cms along the rear/bottom line (where marked at 2 in this pic):
Is there a fix you guys can think of? I'm thinking maybe run a rubber seal around the bottom of the tinware to bridge the gap.
I've marked 1 also as I'm not sure the ramifications of having this pipe crimped as it is? Why would someone have done that??
Also I notice there's a decent gap around the sides of the existing tinware too:
This is about 1cm wide and is the same on both sides. Is this missing a seal or is it another $%&^ issue as a result of the Wizard body kit that
this one has on it?
Cheers all.
Hope I'm posting this in the right section as this is bordering dangerouly close on a 'tech' question rather than a body one.
Just when she's giving me a case of the shites, I take her for a drive and a nice bloke in a very schmick looking bug flashes his lights and we
exchange thumbs up.
Anyone want a virtual beer? This round is on me.
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Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
Posts: 9368
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Location: Northern Rivers NSW
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| posted on January 24th, 2009 at 10:28 PM |
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hey Craig,
as is typical of old age and heat the rubber engine bay seal thats meant to seal that gap just falls apart
its an engine out job to replace unfortunatly
ppl have tried to do it with engine it but for the 20min job of dropping the engine out its no biggy
u should see a C section track that holds the rubber in place
seal is in 2 pieces, 1 below the firewall and the other around the sides and back of the engine
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paladin
Slammed & Awesome Dubber
Posts: 79
Threads: 12
Registered: January 1st, 2009
Member Is Offline
Location: Kenmore, Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Abandoning my search for truth and now looking for a good fantasy.
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| posted on January 24th, 2009 at 10:59 PM |
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Thanks heaps Joel! To the rescue again!
I couldn't see a seal mentioned in any of my books, so relieved to know that's all it is. Easy enough to fix from the sounds of it. Thanks heaps
mate!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
Posts: 11654
Threads: 449
Registered: August 31st, 2002
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Location: SCONE in UPPER HUNTER VALLEY NSW
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 posted on January 24th, 2009 at 11:00 PM |
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Yikes...
the heat from the engine comes out below the tinware
so to keep the engine fan from sucking in HOT air...
it should be sealed..
the best seal is the early model seal...
its shaped like l< instead of the later one which is very thick and does go very hard and brittle...
If You take the rear piece of tinware out...
run a large screwdriver along the grooves and open them up slightly .. You should now be able to fit the early model rubber seal... use some soapy
water on the rubber to help it slide into the groove..
its probably better to do the large rear piece first...
then do the sides... its not impossible just difficult..
You could also cut the rubber into 3 strips and do each individually...
because My rear valance is fibreglass and doesn't have the metal channel... I use the rubber piece on both sides &
use some flat rubber across the back piece....
also - Note - You need 4 new round seals for the spark plug leads... and they need to be pushed in to stop hot air
the pipe that is crimped over [heat riser] supplies heat to the inlet manifold just under the carburetor.. the hot exhaust usually comes out one side
pipe and goes across to the other side... having it crimped off?? usually if they are leaking ?? both sides are crimped or cut off...??
If You have cold winters You will need a new inlet manifold as your carburetor will freeze up..
Many extractor exhaust systems don't have the heat riser connections or have them but they don't work... lol
cheers
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
Posts: 9368
Threads: 211
Registered: February 14th, 2006
Member Is Offline
Location: Northern Rivers NSW
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Mood: Tact Level 0.00
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| posted on January 25th, 2009 at 09:20 AM |
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one of my bugs had the preheat crimped off on one side to, around here u can get away without it
Craig the other thing that jumped out at me is the crank case vent hose isnt hooked up to anything cos the home made pod filter doesnt have a
connection for it
that little hose spigot on the oil filler is meant to connect to the air cleaner for PCV
u can go to a place like cheapskate auto or autobahn and get a little pcv breather that will fit on there
its an easy alternative and will stop oil mist thro your engine bay
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