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 hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on March 10th, 2009 at 06:08 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by mactaylor
thanks for putting the photo's up vassy still cant picture where these adjusters go anyone got a pic of them installed?
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working on pics for you.......
goes in the front bolt hole of the three that hold the trailing arm to spring plate (from the inside) and spring plate drilled to fit the lip of that
adjuster ........two rear holes of spring plate are enlarged to make range of adjustment bigger
marcus, you don't want to go too low for hillclimbing!!
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mactaylor
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 05:13 AM |
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must put the inner trailing arm bush into a fair bit of bind has anyone seen an adjuster that replaces the inner bush? and thanx daimo but what are
you doing up at this hour?
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 05:25 AM |
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work
not really, as it doesn't take much neg camber on the back to be goooooood........2' would be heaps
some talk of adjustable inner bush on shoptalk forums
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 07:16 AM |
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The inner bush certainly makes sense but would be more of an engineering challenge.
I won't go too low Daimo, just keep the centre of gravity as low as possible while keeping good suspension travel. Hoping for compliant suspension
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Like all of us I am interested to see how this works and the subsequent effect on toe in/out etc and how all that will be managed. A learning
experience for sure. 
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 08:24 AM |
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AWESOME that you're getting stuck in Marcus, and love the look of those AVO's !!!
On the engine size thing... current CAMS manual says 2% (I checked cos was sure it used to be 1%) so you should be good with 2040.
Those camber adjuster thingy's look interesting... don't suppose anyone knows of a pair available anywhere ???
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 matberry
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 09:03 AM |
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I supplied Marcus, maybe could get you some Dave, dont know if Marcus wants you to have em but......PM me if you want
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 09:12 AM |
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All is open and fair ... no snake oil or smoke and mirrors 
Dave S. do you know who I can speak with to confirm the 2% allowance as someone raised the fact that since the pistons and barrels are aftermarket the
reconditioning 2% allowance might not apply? I am keen to know as bigger is better.
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Sides
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 10:52 AM |
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Heh heh - yeah - gotta be careful hey, what with our sheep stations on the line and all !!!
Seems to be pretty hard to get that stuff confirmed - just comes down to the Chief Scruit on the day I think. Someone would have to protest you anyway
for them to even care. Generally doesn't happen real often, but there was a case last year of an Escort that had been running in over 2000cc and
someone got dirty - he got tech-inspected and then disallowed from the class since his engine was 1999cc. Bloody stupid I reckon, but there ya go.
The actual wording in the CAMS manual is different now - in http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/02_race/d_3rd_Category/RA29_Group_3J_Q109.pdf it has no mention of reconditioning at all:
16.2 Capacity tolerance: Vehicle classification is based on the nominal capacity stated by the entrant on the entry form. A vehicle
will remain eligible for the nominated class provided the actual capacity does not exceed the class capacity limit by more than 2%.
There's a hillclimb at Mt Cotton this Sunday... I'll ask Col who's the Chief Scruit there and ask, but probably won't get a definite answer.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 11th, 2009 at 11:16 AM |
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I'll see you there on Sunday Dave.
Coming along with a few mates for a look see
One 2039cc beetle engine coming up 
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 15th, 2009 at 04:35 PM |
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So much for the 2039cc 
Spoke to the chief scrutineer at the Hillclimb today.
I don't know what they think the 2% relates to but the scrutineer said there was no way you can go 1cc pass 2l and stay in that class. So I guess at
least that is the answer from the people that matter.
Interestingly I noticed on the program that the time for the 2001 to 3000cc IMP class record is a second slower that the 1601 to 2000cc class. Go
figure.
Mind you I think it was Mischok in his escort setting the time for the latter.
Next weekend is an all weekend working bee on the beetle with the wives away for a 'girls' weekend. Should see some good progress
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vassy66T1
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 04:10 PM |
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The weekend working bee is over and we didn't get as much completed as we hoped (as usual).
Anyway, at least the pan is covered in paint for the moment. No clear yet as we will wait until we have the cage in and all the other stuff that will
go on, do touch ups and then clear it all.
Just need to grab a few parts to get the suspension and brakes together and we can put it back on its wheels.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 04:14 PM |
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Some more pics.
I think everything should be hung from the roof.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 04:22 PM |
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I'll be needing those details on the rear camber adjusters about now so anyone (Matt, Daimo, Craig.T ??)
Looking forward to the suspension going together now.
I also need to get some detail on making a regular sway bar adjustable by using an adjustable block system. (I know it can be done)
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 04:35 PM |
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I can sell you the spring plates with the adjusters if that helps !
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vassy66T1
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 05:34 PM |
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Send me an e-mail Craig and I may do that.
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 06:31 PM |
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if it doesn't work out with Craig, happy to send a set for you to work off.......why not just use adjustable sway bars to begin with?
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on March 22nd, 2009 at 08:05 PM |
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Thanks daimo.
I will come back to you on the spring plates.
I already have a 17mm front bar that is currently non adjustable and don't really want the expense of going for the whiteline adjustable bars. It is
also my opinion that the whiteline rear bar is probably larger than what I will start out with. My rear bar will be a little smaller than my front and
we will work on it from there.
I know there will be a vast array of opinions on this one. Part of my thinking also relates to using the car at higher speed circuit tracks (i.e.
higher speed than the hillclimb) and not wanting a car that is too oversteer happy.
Ideally I will end up with more than one sway bar and have this for adjustment also. If I prove to be wrong I will beef up the bar/s.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on April 2nd, 2009 at 04:43 PM |
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Some little bits arrived in the post.
Not much but at least another step or two forward ...
Picked up the single spring plates so am ready for the adjuster locating. PM sent to you Mr Pell (Daimo) with request for some bits and pieces.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 06:16 PM |
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Got to the shed today and got some front end assembly done.
Thanks to Pete Page for a couple of those niggling parts that had gone missing.
It is great to see it back on two wheels at least.
Front end is neat and will be the business for what we need.
I have gone back and forth but am now settled on using the five bar (kafer style) in the rear end and just running the cage to the forks. Have decided
against using the cage to pick up the rear shocks.
Just got to get the rear brakes (type 3 drums) sorted out and we're moving along
Need to do the welding for the five bar also. Just sat it on for a look see ... front bars weren't in the correct spot in the photo. ...
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matberry
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 08:06 PM |
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Looks real nice Marcus, might want to throw some paint on those disc rotors, everywhere except where the dscc pads work, I hate rusty brake rotors, so
many shops dont bother to paint new rotors....
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matberry
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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Oh that silver looks the part, wow its bright, dont forget the sunnies in this racer, hey
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 09:34 PM |
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Cheers Matt.
I think the inside will tame down a little by the time the cage, seat and other bits go in (hope so anyhow)
I'll get some paint on those rotors.
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 10:03 PM |
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ummmm, why are the adjusters up side down in that front end???
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matberry
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 10:07 PM |
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Daimo you are good and oh so fast. Wonder who fitted them????
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 10:10 PM |
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it ain't gonna work like that........ouch...........the bolts into the "die" that hold the torsion stack are going to run away from the adjusters
grub screw as soon as the car goes on the ground........... sorry Marcus, unless you know something we dont? (i hope so)
best fix at that stage would be to cut off the grub screw brackets and weld on some avis adjusters
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matberry
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 10:19 PM |
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Or remove and refit the adjuster frame, doable, die grind the weld off and reuse, I think the selectodrop style are easier to adjust.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 10:26 PM |
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be bloody low tho Matt, especially with those drop spindles, unless soome work with die grinder to bring adjustment range up, then weld in the hole
that would be left under the adjuster frame..........doable
how do you see the postion compared to the hillbillys' Matty?
oh excuse me marcus, looking good despite ..
......add a "quicksteer" while your at this stage, aint nothing worse than twisting the wheel through close to two rotations to "catch it", when
you can have it down to one turn from lock to lock.............well after you've experienced the difference anyways
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matberry
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| posted on April 4th, 2009 at 10:50 PM |
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The slot is not in the correct location, it's about 90* too low. The bj adjusters have the two grub screws. If you use the other ones, may even need
to end for end the torsions, it may work, but access to the adjuster screw may not work. Possibly a hex bolt instead, depending exactly where the
bracket gets located.....probably better to just cut it all out and refit the adjusters correctly. The stock reference is lost but can work around
that ok.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on April 5th, 2009 at 08:32 AM |
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I am glad I went to bed before I read this or it would have been a crappy nights sleep. My DH (ex-mate)  from Toowoomba fitted the adjusters, and assured me he new what he was doing. I am interested to try
and understand now if there is a solution. Tell me more about the quick steer Daimo.
Trev will be p#$@&ed !!!
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Dak-A-Tak
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| posted on April 5th, 2009 at 11:13 AM |
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Yep! thats wrong , mate bring it over , cut out and flip over . Yes a bit messy but not that hard to do .
Grinder mans best friend !
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