| [ Total Views: 1870 | Total Replies: 30 | Thread Id: 76987 ] |
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 sander288
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 06:18 PM |
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What Oil
Changing the oil on my 1300 tommorow, I've often used the Shell old engine stuff, but I was trying to remember what some other people have used with
good results, I think it was a Castrol oil GTX?
anyway what are you blokes running and what works best?
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sander288
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 06:46 PM |
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looked on the Castrol website, they actually recomend the magnatec oil, so I think i'll go get that
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1916baja
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 06:58 PM |
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I heard the magnetec is no good for vw's, can't remember why but??? I use penrite hpr 30. Used it once and never looked back! My car stopped leaking
so much oil when i started using it.
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RISKYBUG
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 07:15 PM |
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yeah i wouldn't use magnetec in this area this time of year something thinner hpr 30 i would like to try
have a search
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greedy53
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 07:17 PM |
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i use a pensoil straight 30 had no problems over the years
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h
A.k.a.: Towely BuMpEr KING! ILLegal ALIEN on a roadtrip
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 09:11 PM |
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I use penrite hpr 30 or 50 if your motor is a little tired
I've used 30 for the last 15yrs in all my rides n have never had a problem
go the penrite
castrol meh
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polak
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| posted on June 4th, 2009 at 09:44 PM |
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heard that castrol turns ur motor black inside, more so then most. im currently using valvoline low vis 10-30 in my new motor and for me its the best
iv used so far.... on the old 1300, i used a number of things but got the best results from valvoline xld plus. iv been told by many performance vw
ppl that a monograde 30 gives the best of both worlds in an aircooled motor, but i cant seem to find one so personally never tried it.
VW - helping put oil back into the ground for over 60 years |
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68AutoBug
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 01:17 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by polak
heard that castrol turns ur motor black inside, more so then most. im currently using valvoline low vis 10-30 in my new motor and for me its the best
iv used so far.... on the old 1300, i used a number of things but got the best results from valvoline xld plus. iv been told by many performance vw
ppl that a monograde 30 gives the best of both worlds in an aircooled motor, but i cant seem to find one so personally never tried it.
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I use GTX2 in My beetle... with no problems.. 20w/50
I wouldn't use a monograde oil in anything...
Ask anyone what color the engine oil is when its drained..
SHELL:
CALTEX:
MOBIL:
PENRITE:
VALVOLINE:
I believe all engine oils now have detergent in them...
something that wasn't in 30 grade oils back in the early 60s..
so all engine oils should clean out Your engine all the time.
same as deiesel engine oils... and they are black ASAP..
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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colonel mustard
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 01:25 AM |
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thinner oil in the winter! but not much thinner.
I use penrite non burn....
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darren-h
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 06:14 AM |
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penrite classic 30 or hpr 30 
67' deluxe
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greedy53
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 08:53 AM |
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we must remember that vw oil is also for cooling as well the book i read ay 30 graed for the best performence
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mickmick
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 08:55 AM |
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When i got my bug serviced at Vintage they used Nulon 15w/40.
Now taking donations to help make a Beetle healthy again  |
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polak
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 10:01 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
| Quote: | Originally
posted by polak
heard that castrol turns ur motor black inside, more so then most. im currently using valvoline low vis 10-30 in my new motor and for me its the best
iv used so far.... on the old 1300, i used a number of things but got the best results from valvoline xld plus. iv been told by many performance vw
ppl that a monograde 30 gives the best of both worlds in an aircooled motor, but i cant seem to find one so personally never tried it.
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I use GTX2 in My beetle... with no problems.. 20w/50
I wouldn't use a monograde oil in anything...
Ask anyone what color the engine oil is when its drained..
SHELL:
CALTEX:
MOBIL:
PENRITE:
VALVOLINE:
I believe all engine oils now have detergent in them...
something that wasn't in 30 grade oils back in the early 60s..
so all engine oils should clean out Your engine all the time.
same as deiesel engine oils... and they are black ASAP..
cheers
LEE
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i used gtx 2 for a while on the old motor aswel and never had a problem, reason i switched was that i was told by numerous ppl that it stains the
internals of your motor. obviously all oils go black with use due to contaminants and heat. derr
as for the monograde 30 idea, i change my oil every 1500 miles, my car is no longer a daily driver and usually only gets taken out for a nice run to
the beach or a blast down the track, so all the benefits of a multigrade oil only hinder my engines performance. YES muligrade oil is better if you
are doing high milage or you drive in all different conditions but if ur car is strictly a toy to play with on weekends you could use a mono grade.
although this argument is redundant as i cant find a monograde 30 anyways.
here is a quote from a chemical engineering website, it explains it a little better than i can.
"Oils used to be sold mostly as single-grade products, and still are for some special uses, such as extreme weather conditions or for racing cars.
But the viscosity range of single-grade oils is too limited for general use. That's where multigrade oils come in.
High-molecular-weight polymers (viscosity index improvers) such as poly(methyl methacrylate) and ethylene-propylene copolymer are added to a
low-viscosity oil base stock to create multigrade oils that work through thick and thin. At cold temperatures, the rubberlike polymer molecules exist
as balled-up coils and don't thicken the oil significantly
But at warmer temperatures, they expand to more linear random coils to prevent oil from thinning out too much"
VW - helping put oil back into the ground for over 60 years
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 11:06 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by mickmick
When i got my bug serviced at Vintage they used Nulon 15w/40.
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I have heard of people using NULON 15w/40 oil
but its still too thin for My liking...
15w/50 Yes.... but not 15w/40
I was going to use Castrol Magnatec 15w/40 in My beetle but castrol doesn't recommend it... GTX2..
actually 15w/40 may be better in the winter in a 1500 engine with small oil galeries...??
LEE
Oils ain't oils.....
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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 matberry
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 11:37 AM |
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I recommend against 50w oil , too thick for proper cooling, and I'm in Queensland. Penrite is also questionable as too how they measure thier
viscosity as thier oils always seem way thicker than most other brands, and since it's the volume/flow of oil that is a major part of our cooling
system (thicker oil will show high pressures and lower oil temps as its not got the volume to wash the heat from the pistons as much as a thinner
oil). I recommend a thinner oil, unless the bottom end is nearly falling out of the engine when a 50 grade Penrite would be a good choice.
I use and recommend Brad Penn or Castrol magnatec depending on owners requirements.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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polak
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 11:49 AM |
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im using valvoline low-vis 10w-30 and im very happy with it..... not much thicker then running in oil.... great engine response. wouldnt recommend it
for older engines though, would probably knock a bit.
VW - helping put oil back into the ground for over 60 years
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66deluxe
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 12:07 PM |
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Brad Penn 20w-50 or castrol Edge 20w-50, go for an API SG rating oil.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
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RED62E
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 02:19 PM |
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I just bought 5lt of Nulon 20W - 50 High Kilometer Engine Oil. Seems to be doing ok so far.
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Joel
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 05:12 PM |
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depends on the health of the engine
20/50 is like tar
fine in old worn shitters that need it to keep some oil pressure up but fresh new engines are generally happiest on something like 10/30
i run mine on 10/30 pennzoil
like polak said im not real impressed with castrol
the engines ive pulled down that i ran out were very sludgy inside
when i decompressed my 1776 after nearly 4000kms on pennzoil it was still cleaan as freshly built inside
problem with thicker oils in fresh engines, well dual releife blocks anyway is the excess pressure is bled off thro the valves and bypasses the oil
cooler which pumps the oil temps right up
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RISKYBUG
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 05:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by sander288
Changing the oil on my 1300 tommorow, I've often used the Shell old engine stuff, but I was trying to remember what some other people have used with
good results, I think it was a Castrol oil GTX?
anyway what are you blokes running and what works best?
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and soon in our area we will be hitting 10 deg in day time and - 10 at night so a little thinner is better
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type3lover
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 05:49 PM |
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Whatever happened to that ACE 30 stuff that was around a couple of years ago?
I usually use GTX2 in my VW's and change it often, but my turbo motor will most likely get mobil one fully synthetic one it's broken in (gotta save
up for that!! ).
OT: Can't remember where I saw it, but I read somewhere not to use synthetic in a fresh engine either...run it in on mineral oil then swap to
synthetic after x number of miles.
Might be to do with the bedding in of the rings?
.
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sander288
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 05:58 PM |
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Changed the oil today, I bought some Penrite HPR 30, seems to be working well, no leaks at all, except for me being a idiot and not looking whilst
filling it up and spilling some.
so far Penrite HPR 30
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trickysimon
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| posted on June 5th, 2009 at 06:03 PM |
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I'm using 20w 50 in my 1600 and its just fine. Granted that it isn't the best condition engine around.
Valvoline, you know what I mean.
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polak
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 09:40 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by type3lover
Whatever happened to that ACE 30 stuff that was around a couple of years ago?
I usually use GTX2 in my VW's and change it often, but my turbo motor will most likely get mobil one fully synthetic one it's broken in (gotta save
up for that!! ).
OT: Can't remember where I saw it, but I read somewhere not to use synthetic in a fresh engine either...run it in on mineral oil then swap to
synthetic after x number of miles.
Might be to do with the bedding in of the rings?
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ace 30 is still around, i saw the guy down at the portland drags earlier this year. not sure how to contact him, but i dare say u would find something
if u googled it....
VW - helping put oil back into the ground for over 60 years
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BRUTUS
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 03:30 PM |
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ACE 40 (25W-50) and 30 (20W-40) are both available in Sydney from CLASSIC Vee-Dub (George), and VINTAGE Vee-Dub (Boris).
There may be others...? Or Ask your favorite VW store to stock it!
OR "QPL" (Quality Performance Lubes) will courier orders direct (Min. order is 3 x 5L, or 1 x 20L) anywhere in Australia. Phone Neil or Ian on 03
5367 8794 BH. They will take credit card over phone (or post a cheque, etc.).
QPL (the only Australian manufacturer) is at http://www.qplubes.com which doesn't seem
to show up well in searches.
Application/technical enquiries re 'ACE' Air Cooled Engine oils can be sent in writing to aceoil@optusnet.com.au
ACE 30 & 40 oils: specifically engineered for your Air Cooled VW
delivered (free del.) throughout Yarra Valley / Ranges, & Gippsland areas. Also ACE 20, 50 & 90.
FOR SALE: ACE 30, 40 etc. Oil formulations & Trade-names.
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Anthiron
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 07:35 PM |
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i run GTX 2.
so Mattberry and Joel are you saying its a little thick and a bit shit? my engines about 8 years old and mostly stock.
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Joel
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 08:36 PM |
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its fine in engines with a bit of mileage
just not when theyre freshly built with nice close tolerances it leads to oil pressure being way to high
the engine combats this by bypassing the oil cooler so it heats up more and thins out which just leads to high oil temps
well thats on a dual releife case anyway
pretty sure the single releife dont bypass the cooler
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Anthiron
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 08:38 PM |
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my case is dual releif, and i dont have a pressure guage at the moment (well its sitting in the garage  ) dip stick is never too hot to touch after driving, usually only warm.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Joel
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 08:55 PM |
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baja bugs usually have that strange condition of being overcooled
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matberry
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| posted on June 6th, 2009 at 10:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Anthiron
my case is dual releif, and i dont have a pressure guage at the moment (well its sitting in the garage ) dip stick is never too hot to touch after driving, usually only warm.
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Can't complain about that.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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