| [ Total Views: 266289 | Total Replies: 705 | Thread Id: 77027 ] |
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 colonel mustard
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 08:15 PM |
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I like the black board better, but thats just me. love the white headlight surrounds though. 
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Joel
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 07:45 PM |
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i had to do the reverse of my rear lowering thread today
it had to be raised anyway as it was almost sitting on the spring plate stops but i took dylan the dubber and his little brother for a spin in it this
morn and i drilled it alot harder out of a corner than i previously have only to hear my header go cruuuuuunch along the road in the same style as
mick and ians bugs drag the sumps
so shes back to stock height at the back now which is about 1" lower than actual stock due to the increased weight higher than i wanted but on the
plus side itll be a struggle to hit anything now
check out all that ground clearance 
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colonel mustard
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 08:17 PM |
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side profile........ :P
better to be higher than need a new sump, or lose it and all your oil.
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Joel
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 08:21 PM |
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i pulled up in a nice scenic location for a side shot and the camera batterys said up yours 
will get one tomoro as its doing a run down to byron
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colonel mustard
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 08:29 PM |
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I took out my camera to take a photo of some parts, and it was on in my bag... therefore dead. same as what happened at warwick, hence why most of my
photos were rubbish.
Stupid digital cameras. I want an SLR!!
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 18th, 2009 at 09:07 AM |
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Hi Joel
The heavier bars when you get them will help with sudden dips or acceleration. What size are your rear tyres, maybe go up a size as well.
Steve
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 18th, 2009 at 10:14 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
side profile........ :P
better to be higher than need a new sump, or lose it and all your oil.
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yeah gentleman raise your veedubs 
and be normal like me
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Joel
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| posted on October 18th, 2009 at 06:45 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
side profile........ :P
better to be higher than need a new sump, or lose it and all your oil.
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just cos i like u so much :p
Steve, im definately gonna track down some Squareback bars cos i want it lower without the bounce
its funnny how the smallest changes can make a huge difference to a cooling systems efficiency
i made a very simple scoop to mount below my rad
hasnt made a huge difference at speed but around town its dropped a good 10 degrees
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 19th, 2009 at 11:36 AM |
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Joel
you shouldn't be able to see the radiator with the hood open.
or is the picture just to show the air scoop???
and you have a cover???
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Joel
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| posted on October 22nd, 2009 at 06:52 PM |
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The speed sensor....... Take 2....
seeing as my first speed sensor failed fairly early in the piece i needed to re think the design
it was to be expected that it wouldnt really work as it was very agricultural
it was just a simple alarm reed switch designed to tell if a door is either opened or closed, not sense a wheel turning 100x per minute
people have used that setup before with good results and mine worked till i took it to a speed faster than what the road signs said
i thought it was worth a try as the subi dash cluster only had a simple reed switch and 5 magnets on a plastic disc
so i needed to come up with something a little more advanced
sure there are the off the shelf VDO inline VSS that screw into the back of the speedo cable but due to the lack of room behind an Lbug dash this
wasnt an option anyway and theyre also $200+
enter stage left inductive proximity sensor
its merely a metal detector like at air ports and was only $25 but has a very high frequency response so can read stupidly high speeds well over
300mph with perfect accuracy
to trigger this one i just needed metal to pass in front of it 5 times per wheel revolution
so i made up the wheel of death that bolts to the CV joint
it needed to be cut in half so it could be slipped over the axle
without doing this would require the CV joint to be removed from the axle which is a horrible messy job
credit for this design must go to Andy Malec from the subaru vanagon group
i printed off a copy hes made and traced it onto some 16 gauge sheet metal
a bracket to hold the sensor was easy, just an L shaped bracket rivetted to the bump stop mount
with the wheel of death bolted to the CV joint and the sensor mounted i hooked up the power and checked that it was working
the sensor has a little LED thats part of the housing that lights up whenever its detecting metal
all looked good at this stage, theres only 3 wires to connect, power, ground and the signal to the ECU
first test drive revealed its working perfectly
the OBD1 engines like mine arent as finicky about running with no speed sensors
the main thing they do is stall when coming to a stop or bring the check engine light on when rolling down hill
mine never stalled but it did drop down to about 400rpm when stopping at intersections for a breif second and the idle often hunted alot, bouncing
upto 400rpm
its now stopped doing that and has also stopped throwing code 24
i havent done any high speed driving yet but so far its working flawlessly
the wheel of death is very strong and theres no risk of the blades bending
alot of people with OBD1 eninges dont worry about a VSS and just put up with the codes coming on and engine revs dropping right down when coasting to
a stop
but OBD2 engines can be alot more problematic doing things like rev limiting and going into limp mode etc
some of them use the VSS to work out what speed to run the cooling fans at as well so can suffer from overheating problems in rare cases
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 11:10 AM |
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Hi Joel
That looks great, it will slice & dice the road kill.
I have one of the VDO sensors to mount on a speedo cable, my SPA speedo is digital anyway so maybe I can use the signal for both. What is most likely
going to be an issue is if I ever put the car on a dyno, there will be no signal getting to the ECU, might have to work something out with battery
drill or maybe do what you've done and scrap the VDO unit.
I heard somewhere about making fans up to cool the CV joints, with a bit of angle on your blades you could have "CV coolers"
Steve
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colonel mustard
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 11:13 AM |
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Steve, is the SPA speedo the same as Dave's LCD screen speedo?
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 12:39 PM |
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Hi Jason
the one I have has a tacho built in as well, it only goes to 9000, unlike the photo.
Steve
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Joel
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 06:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
Joel
you shouldn't be able to see the radiator with the hood open.
or is the picture just to show the air scoop???
and you have a cover???
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sorry i started answering your question yesterday and AVD crashed
it wasnt covered to start with
it worked fine uncovered but more as a neatness thing ive covered it over now and carpeted the enclosure
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Joel
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 06:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi Joel
That looks great, it will slice & dice the road kill.
I have one of the VDO sensors to mount on a speedo cable, my SPA speedo is digital anyway so maybe I can use the signal for both. What is most likely
going to be an issue is if I ever put the car on a dyno, there will be no signal getting to the ECU, might have to work something out with battery
drill or maybe do what you've done and scrap the VDO unit.
I heard somewhere about making fans up to cool the CV joints, with a bit of angle on your blades you could have "CV coolers"
Steve
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yes keep your fingers clear at speed
this one dices road kill and the last one with the magnets picked up everyones lost wheel nuts off the road
its another reason i set it up on the rear wheeel so dyno situations arent a problem
not that its really an issue on an OBD1 engine but OBD2 motors often go into limp mode on dynos if the VSS isnt spinning
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 06:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
Joel
you shouldn't be able to see the radiator with the hood open.
or is the picture just to show the air scoop???
and you have a cover???
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sorry i started answering your question yesterday and AVD crashed
it wasnt covered to start with
it worked fine uncovered but more as a neatness thing ive covered it over now and carpeted the enclosure
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Good boy
you dont want the hot air coming in ur car like mine does
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Joel
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 06:48 PM |
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thats the joy of an Lbug no where for the hot air to get thro the dash anyway
one thing thats surprised me though is even with stainless steel lines hard against the bottom of the sills its not doing the same as yours and
heating the inside of the car
maybe u need some more carpet lol
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 07:45 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
thats the joy of an Lbug no where for the hot air to get thro the dash anyway
one thing thats surprised me though is even with stainless steel lines hard against the bottom of the sills its not doing the same as yours and
heating the inside of the car
maybe u need some more carpet lol
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or just some carpet
i am not a big fan of fancy stuff. eg carpet
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Joel
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 08:06 PM |
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speaking of fancy stuff,
the sticker of approval 
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BulletBug
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 09:15 PM |
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joel... finally i catch up with ur subaru conv...
still remember me?? hehe..
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Joel
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| posted on October 25th, 2009 at 07:58 PM |
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ok time i finished the rest of this thread off
ive been too busy out enjoying driving it
you know you've done something right when a subaru mechanic with decades of experience thinks its a WRX engine as u pull up
the look on his face when i opened the decklid and he saw it was only an NA EJ22 was priceless
ive now got just under 300kms on it so far as a combination of city and highway just soak testing everything
first fill up came up with 9.3L/100km which is highly reflective of how ive been driving it, so it'll get way better than that once i ease up on the
noise pedal
out on the open road it seems to settle at 90c and around town in stop go it gets up around 95 but its a rare moment for the fan to come on unless im
stationary or close to for several minutes
in over 100kms of city driving the fan has still yet to come on other than sitting for 5 mins idling when its hot
the hottest day so far its seen has been yesterday at 32c and it still sat happily around the 90c mark and the fan doesnt come on till 100c so im
confident in the cooling systems capabilities
i had an unused hole in my dash so i hooked an LED pilot light up to the fan relay just temporarily so i know when its coming on
anyway back to where i left off, ive ended up using 8M worth of the stainless line which all up cost me $110
this is all thats left over, all joined up theres probably nearlly 1 meter there but oh well, good money in scrap stainless lol
the cooling lines under the sills were run, at the back i just needed a 45 bend for the supply to match it up with the hose coming off the header
tank
and on the return a dogleg to kick it out around the header
i used the falcon bottom hose as the link between the thermostat housing and the dogleg
it has a spring in it so it never kinks or loses its shape
heres how the lines look out of the car
at the front the lines run up over the suspension and into the wheel well
now owners of most supers will recognise this hunk of metal
its a defomation/crush plate which is allegedly reinforcing, it also mounts the A/C condensor and fan where fitted and it also covers the hole where
the shift rod comes out of the napoleans hat
my first Sbug was a 71 and never had one just a plate over the hole but all the 72 on supers ive owned or worked on have had them
anyway after undoing half a dozen bolts and removing the swaybar saddles its amazing how much more room there is
to deal with the shift rod hole i just cut that section of it out and bolted it back on
Chop...chop....chop
the cut out is still in one piece so if worse comes to worse it can always be welded back in
i got some pinch welting to cover up the raw edges and keep the engineer happy and save my hands
the other thing i did was got some indaflex insulation to cover the pipes up where they run thro the wheel well
just to avoid heating up the fuel lines and pumps
its used to lag refrigeration lines , its good for up to 180c and completely prevents any heat transfer
i made up a frame that will bolt into the wheel well and also supports the radiator
now the days of radiators solid mounted to the body dissapeared along with copper cores many moons ago
these day there all rubber mounted to add some flexiblity
most have little peg feet like this top and bottom
that sit in rubber mounts like this
a few scraps of subaru exhaust pipe were the perfect size for the rubber mounts so i welded them to a piece of angle and made that bolt to the the old
crush plate mounts
i mounted it using booker rod so it could be height adjustable
so all bolted in place it looks like this
it was at this point i took the bug for its first drive
i found when i got back that the fuel pumps and fuel tank were a little toasty from the heat of the radiator which was to be expected
i hadnt really decided on what to close the rad in with just yet
the token material seems to be alumnium or sheet metal.
thats fine and strong enough but being highly conductive they really heat the inside of the boot up big time
i intially thought fibrglass as it wont transfer the heat, is strong and light and i have a good mate thats a fibreglasser who owes me a few
favours
but unfortunaltely hes out of action for another month due to knee operation so in the mean time i just went to bunnings and bought a sheet of 7mm
waterproof ply
i gotta say i was really surprised by how well it does the job
the first thing i noticed was how much it dampend the fan noise
without a cover on the rad it sounded like i had a jet turbine under the hood whenever the fan cut in
now its no louder than any mainstreamer car fan running
but the most impressive thing is when ive been out for a drive and get back with the car hot enough that the fans cycling touching the ply it could
barely even be described as warm
anything metal, would cook an egg nicely
to make it look alittle less out of place i gave it a coat of black paint
i did start carpeting the rad cover but it just got to fiddly
wasted effort on soemthing thats hardly gonna be seen
funny, even with the radiator and a spare tyre i still have more room left than a standard bug has normally
the top is on hinges just to allow access
i just use some R clips through pins to hold the lid shut
ive completley closed in the sides to stop any air getting past the rad
and i also made up a small scoop to sit under the rad
simple but highly effective, it dropped my average temps by 10c
lots of coolant
to my amazement first fill and not a single leak
all up the system holds 14L, so just on double the standard subi cooling system
i achieved my goal of having a system that doesnt need bleeding
i just leave the radiator and header tank caps off and fill till they're full and just start the engine and let it circulate the coolant abit
any air soon bubbles to the top
after it cooled down for the first time i got about 1 turn on each hose clamp
ive just got an old windscreen washer bottle as an overflow for now
when its cold i just fill it to the texta line
at it hottest its expands about 2" above that then sucks it back in as it cools down
if theres anything i've missed with the cooling system or any particular part of the conversion that anyone wants to know about, just ask
ive got nealry 600 pics ive taken during the conversion so theres lots of stuff covered that i didnt put up
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trickysimon
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| posted on October 25th, 2009 at 08:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
funny, even with the radiator and a spare tyre i still have more room left than a standard bug has normally
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Rub it in why don't you 
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Joel
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| posted on October 25th, 2009 at 08:28 PM |
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i never keep anything in there other than a few tools anyway
its only a pizza cutter spare as the vw spare doestn match my stud pattern anyway but itll get me home.....at 80km/h
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ryana89
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| posted on October 25th, 2009 at 08:47 PM |
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I've read the entire thread right through and have been watching it for updates for the last couple of weeks and i suppose i should say
congratulations You've got enough on this
conversion to write a book.. or 2!!. I was surprised that you still managed to get room for a spare tyre/wheel. Again congratulations on a job well
done
Ryan
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Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia
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Joel
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| posted on October 25th, 2009 at 09:02 PM |
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cheers
i wanted some practical aspects like still having a spare
ive got roadside cover on it in the event of a flat but i still would rather not be stuck on the side of the road all for the sake of not having a
spare
another thing ive done is hooked up my oil temp and pressure gauges
the oil temp was easy, the senders just screwed into the drain plug
but pressure sender required abit more thought
the stock idiot light sender on EJs is buried down under the alternator and powersteering pump bracket
only way to really see it is with the bracket gone
room is very tight there
at the other end of the block is a second sender port with a blank in it but its buried rigght down deep below the IACV, the PCV hoses and main engine
loom
its all 1/8th gas fittings so i got a Tee fitting of an old compressor with one end capped off and fit an oil pressure Y piece to it
a normal 90degree fitting woulda been much easier but i had this laying around
idiot light sender and pressure gauge sender fitted it nicely
the powersteering bracket interefered slightly so it copped a small haircut
now is anyone else out there running temp and pressure guages?
my oil temp seems to sit around 85c and can get upto 90 with some spritely driving
ive changed the oil and filter and running 15/40 my pressure maxes at 80psi at aound 3000rpm even at 90c
at idle it sits around 15-20 when hot
that sound normal?
im used to VW figures which are lucky to be over 50psi
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 26th, 2009 at 08:40 PM |
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now is anyone else out there running temp and pressure guages?
my oil temp seems to sit around 85c and can get upto 90 with some spritely driving
ive changed the oil and filter and running 15/40 my pressure maxes at 80psi at aound 3000rpm even at 90c
at idle it sits around 15-20 when hot
that sound normal?
im used to VW figures which are lucky to be over 50psi
if the red IDIOT light is not coming on it must be ok
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1303Steve
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| posted on October 26th, 2009 at 10:16 PM |
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Hi
I asked an oil pressure question on a WRX forum, with some interesting responses.
Steve
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Hi
I'm going to buy an oil pressure gauge for my car, what sort of oil pressure do you guys normally see? Would I need to buy a 5 bar (72 psi) or 10 bar
(145 psi) gauge?
Steve
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i got a blitz pressure gauge.. the gauge reads upto 10 something.. pressure goes up to 7, spends most of its time around 6. goes around 2.5 and 3 on
idle when warm.
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Hi
Thanks for that, your gauge should have some tiny writing on it and it will say what sort of measurement it is, could you check for me next time your
in your car.
Thanks, Steve
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I have a HKS gauge.
Mine has similar 1 to 10 rating.
Sits on 3 at idle and rises very quickly to 6 if you are driving around. It stays pegged at 6 constantly when driving hard.
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Hi
Thanks for that. 5 bar = 72.5 psi. So I think I had better get a 10 bar gauge otherwise it will spend a lot of time off the scale.
Steve
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Definitely want at least 100psi gauge, my car almost got that at startup ~95psi. So you don't want something lower as you may damage the gauge.
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Joel
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| posted on October 27th, 2009 at 09:34 AM |
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how bout that, right on par
not bad for an untouched 17 year old engine
no wonder these things live so long
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on October 28th, 2009 at 04:44 AM |
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Nice going Joel.
Right, you gonna pop round and take me for a spin?
The sticker looks good 
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Joel
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| posted on October 28th, 2009 at 09:17 AM |
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cheers,
that really clever who came up with design?
WKD has only just recently hit australia so not many here would get the reference
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