| [ Total Views: 3029 | Total Replies: 24 | Thread Id: 79068 ] |
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 satori
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 10:28 PM |
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VW 1916 vs Subaru ej22
Hey guys. Trying to figure out what direction to take with my Fastback. Either a mild air cooled 1916 or a Subaru ej22. Has anyone had experiences
with both of these engines in either a beetle or type 3. What are the pro's and con's with both the engines and what would feel faster?
thanks
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 10:36 PM |
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go the Subi 
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GTMac
A.k.a.: Andrew
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 10:40 PM |
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What do you think my answer would be? Stay with the Suby but I honestly would enjoy the cruise with the EA81 until you have the rest of the car just
ratted how you want it. Should you want more power, your 3/4 way to a conversion so just go the EJ22, hell lot cheaper than a 1916.
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers. 
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn? 
UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list. |
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pete wood
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 10:52 PM |
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what they said. 1916 = $$$$$, EJ22 = $$$ but a much lazier therefore longer lasting engine.
a good 1916 is probably about the same power as the EJ22 and it's a fair bit lighter. however the price tag is not worth the motor for a street car
in my opinion.
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satori
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 10:54 PM |
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Yeah, I think if I could find a cheap Liberty for around $750 off ebay, I should be able to do the conversion for around $2000 minus the engineer
cert. After researching about the EA series engines and driving the one in the fasty now, im not that impressed with the power increase compared to
the air cooled. Also not much after market performance parts for these engines compared to VW engines.
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Joel
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 10:56 PM |
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the only real cons i see of the EJ is mainly the hacking involved to fit a radiator (which your car has had already??) and the initial cost of the
install
oh yeah and all the uptight whingy purists
pros are easy
stock EJ22 will make same if not more power than most hot 1916s but be 100x smoother, economical and outlive by a long shot
theyre one of the most bullet proof subi motors out there
plus once its in if it dies another is only $500 away from most wreckers and if ones not availble an EJ20 can be used as well, not $6K+ down the drain
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 11:00 PM |
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just a thought, if I were to do it again, I'd go the EJ20T. There are literally billions available and the number of parts available for them is
beyond compare for any car except Chev V8s. You can start with a stock single sideplate box and upgrade later to albins gears. GTmac can word you up
on it all.
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satori
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| posted on September 14th, 2009 at 11:08 PM |
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Yeah the ej20T would be awesome, but alot more work and $$$$$. I think 135hp from the ej22 would be a nice step up from the 75hp that I have now. And
I wont be smashing cv's and gears. Plus the ej20T usually cost over $2000 compared to $600 for a ej22.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 08:11 AM |
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The other option is an EA82T. I think it is only 120HP stock, but being turbo can easily be modified. The fuel economy will be worse (than the EJ22),
but the giggle factor with the turbo is higher. Pete from Custom Offroad had one in his Baja, I drove it a few times and it went pretty well. The
EA82T is cheap.
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pete wood
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 08:40 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by satori
Yeah the ej20T would be awesome, but alot more work and $$$$$. I think 135hp from the ej22 would be a nice step up from the 75hp that I have now. And
I wont be smashing cv's and gears. Plus the ej20T usually cost over $2000 compared to $600 for a ej22.
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CVs only break if they are poorly maintained or running big angles. You won't have the second in a street car and repacking them is not too much
drama.
Re the $$$, at the end of the day $1.5k is not that much cash to have a lot more HP and a lot more potential. Just put it off until you can save up
the cash.
Re the EAs, yes they are cheap, but they are also getting long in the tooth.
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 12:50 PM |
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Hi
After spending another $1500+ to finish off a mild 1904cc Type 1 motor for the sons 1303, I'm wondering if I should have just gone EJ22 now instead
of later.
Steve
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Baja Wes
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 12:56 PM |
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you don't need to wonder, you know what the answer is 
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bajachris88
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 01:21 PM |
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wats the limitations to engine vs. weight anyways?
can he go ej25,
is ej22 not compliant with any rules cause its too much?
I really don't know, but am keen. Could you imagine the upgrade! (it would be a long time yet mind you....)
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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kombi kountry
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 01:29 PM |
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what about the current ej20 series? subaru website says 110kw & 196nm, but i recall seeing it a year or so ago rated at 120kw (i'm probably
imagining things). maybe it was detuned for emissions reasons?
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 03:09 PM |
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I would only change to a ej20t heaps of fun and you can just drive it all day like a ej22 until you need the boost.
check out my link below
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 03:44 PM |
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Hi,
This might convince u just to wait & do the EJ20T, as Ian says, the wrx engines drive like stockers until u get into them.
Personally I would have a hot VW engine over the EJ22 or even the EJ25. if u have the radiator setup, then u are 90% there, so just get the EJ20T, u
won't be dissapointed.
Heres the graph of the last VW engine that I built, compared to the wrx engine.
VW engine was a 2275cc with all the goodies, but unfortunantly stock 040 heads & low 8.6:1 compression. Lots of tourque for a heavy superbug, but
would have greatly benefitted from some nice CNC heads & 10.0:1 compression.
WRX engine was $850 with 140'000ks on it from SSS Automotive in Sydney. Engine was bought late 2004 but I have seen the WRX engines for as little as
$750 at Echibahn jap wreckers in Sydney, try to steer away from the Liberty EJ20T's as they don't have the later model heads as per the WRX.
Hope this helps u.
regards
Jak
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 04:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
I would only change to a ej20t heaps of fun and you can just drive it all day like a ej22 until you need the boost.
check out my link below
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That video in your signature is the best!
I wish they had a shot of the ute drivers face after that... hahaha.
Putting on a burn out show while the modest little dub is like... "ha! he will be surprised!"
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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 helbus
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 07:29 PM |
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I swing both ways.
In our Type 4 engined bus the EJ22 fitted straight in, and the radiator bolted straight underneath. No cutting of anything from the body or modifying
anything mechanically at all. Just cost heaps of money.
In a Type 1 engined car I would go the real tough Type 1. That would bolt straight in.
However. If I did decide to put a Suby in the Type 1 engined vehicle, I would go the EJ20T. Might as well go extreme if you have to do all the
work.
The way I see it, the engine brand designates the brand that wins the race. If you beat a Commodore in a Subaru engined Volkswagen, the Subaru brand
was the winner. If you have a real tough VW engine and can beat Commodores at the drags, then VW wins.
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satori
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| posted on September 15th, 2009 at 09:03 PM |
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Yeah im definitely swinging towards the ej20T.
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Klaus
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| posted on September 16th, 2009 at 12:39 PM |
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I had no dramas engineering the ej20t in the wagon , rs legacy /liberty motors are alot cheaper then wrx i paid 2500 for 55k front cut and 1500 for a
140k cut, but yeah downside is noisy lifters , diff heads manifold and pistons fix that or wait till you find a sti front cut .
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carabu
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| posted on September 16th, 2009 at 07:39 PM |
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Hi Satori, i have an EJ20T with 95k on it if you are interested. It is still sitting in my 2001 Forester, i was going to put it in my T3 but i now
have two 70's Kombi's that i'm now working on so the project is off and the Caravelle is to be sold. I'm on the Central Coast.
PM me if you wish or post here
Cheers Steve
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satori
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| posted on September 17th, 2009 at 11:50 AM |
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So is there any problems using later model wrx engines around 2002 to 2005. I heard that immobilises can be a bit tricky to get around
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Mick058
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| posted on September 17th, 2009 at 11:54 AM |
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if you use the jdm ones there isnt a problem.
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carabu
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| posted on September 17th, 2009 at 04:39 PM |
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Satori, i will PM you later on tonight.
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Joel
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| posted on September 17th, 2009 at 07:14 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by satori
So is there any problems using later model wrx engines around 2002 to 2005. I heard that immobilises can be a bit tricky to get around
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fly by wire complicates things to
not sure when it started but most of the later models have it
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