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 spdterence
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| posted on October 3rd, 2009 at 06:37 AM |
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New Weber IDF 40's - initial set up.
Hi to all.
I have ordered a set of IDF 40's for my 1776. Ultimately these will go on a mild 1916 - however will run on the current stock 1776 now.
I understand from a very good source that these are very good out of the box and can be bolted up with little issue.
In terms of air jet, emulsion tube and main jet - 175 /F11 /140 is the mix that is coming from memory - thoughts?
Is there anything to be sorted in terms of float level setting?
Also these are Webers made in Spain - do I need to pull them down and clean them before I do anything.
Just looking for general advice in initial set up. Cheers. Terry
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 Bizarre
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| posted on October 3rd, 2009 at 10:08 AM |
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Italian is better than Spain but Spain is heaps better than what is out there now
As to jetting with Webers i have had goos luck with the following experience
1600 - 32vents
1916 - low power 34 vents
1916 - high power 36 vents
So "MY" opinion that i have had good experience with is a 1776 would want 32-34 vents
Idle jets is 1.25 times the body size.
IDF 40 - 40 x 1.25 = 50 idles
IDF 36 - 36 x 1.25 = 45 idles
Mains is 4 to 4.2 x the vent size
So 34 x 4 = .......
140 is a good place to start
Airs......whatever....180 some where round there
READ HERE
Jon's advice is based on Webers (not Dellortos) and has proven true to me
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htm
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/dualcarb.htm
Futue te ipsum!!!
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spdterence
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| posted on October 4th, 2009 at 07:26 AM |
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Thanks mate. Should be fun getting them sorted. the Italian jobs are hard to come by in good order - or cost the same a new one rebuilt. I have not
heard anything bad about the Spain built units. Terry
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on October 4th, 2009 at 05:55 PM |
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easy to get setup............you know my number !
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spdterence
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| posted on October 4th, 2009 at 08:49 PM |
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Thanks Craig - getting a bit impatient now.
Didnt figure I would go to the efforts of setting up your Dells only to put on new Webers anyway -
Then work out the ignition ! - only to find out it is the heads
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Triple X
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| posted on October 5th, 2009 at 08:38 AM |
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Stick with what they comes with out of the box. Try them first and then decide next what needs to be changed.
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spdterence
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| posted on October 14th, 2009 at 08:55 PM |
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Well my Webers turned up today.
I asked for:
air jet - 175
emulsion tube F11
main jet - 140
Received
air jet - 200 
emulsion tube F11
main jet - 115
I think the main jet is way too small. I have a set of 140's So will start there I think.
The idle jets are 50 - which is good.
The other hassle I have is the Hex linkage - the arms won't slide the rotten things. What's the best idea - get some emory paper on the bar OR do I
try to stretch the arms open. My only concern is that I stretch it too far and crack the thing. Any thoughts? Terry
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matberry
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| posted on October 14th, 2009 at 10:40 PM |
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Definately pull them apart and clean, the last new set of Spanish Webers were full of swarf.
I'd file or sand the arms to make fit.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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spdterence
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| posted on October 14th, 2009 at 10:47 PM |
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Thanks Matt - got the arms and linkages sorted pretty well tonight I think - gotta love the Dremel!
I will pull them down tomorrow and go through them - the last thing I need is a heap of fuel pulling debris into the smaller galleries! Cheers.
Terry
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Craig & Tims 3 bar stiffy
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Cooookies
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 07:16 AM |
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bet you a carton of Stellas that they have 28 vents in there as well
Futue te ipsum!!!
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spdterence
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 05:35 PM |
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How did you know? 
Why would anyone supply a 40 with 28 vents in? 36 I could understand perhaps.
I am now seeing why some are much cheaper then perhaps others. DRD kit looked a lot better and they claim that they pull each carby down and rebuild
to your specs. They were $150.00USD more though. So - not sure which is the right way to go - a bit of mucking about setting up or get it right and
pay more upfront - well it might cost about the same ultimately.
Smile - It confuses people
Today:
Aussie 69 IRS pan Brazilian curves
1916cc of Stans magic
Fat boy stainless extractors
Craig & Tims 3 bar stiffy
Tomorrow
Cooookies
Better brakes |
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 06:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by spdterence
How did you know?
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Because 4.1ish x 28 = 115
That is the "stock" set up for 40's
I just dont believe in 28's being ok - especially for a 1916
Either does AC.net, or Richard Holzl or.................
I have 34's in my DRLA's on a lo-po 1916 and it runs sweet
I had 32s in IDF36's on a 1600/1775 and it ran sweet
Futue te ipsum!!!
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spdterence
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 07:33 PM |
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Ok - I see. Mine currently is a stock 1776- will the 28's work with the correct jets?
Funny thing is my last carbies were IDF 36 with 32 vents - so IDF 40's with 28 vents seems a bit mixed up ?
Smile - It confuses people
Today:
Aussie 69 IRS pan Brazilian curves
1916cc of Stans magic
Fat boy stainless extractors
Craig & Tims 3 bar stiffy
Tomorrow
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Better brakes |
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 08:29 PM |
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Possibly
I will admit i have never "personally" tried. All my trusted information has said to go with the 32's etc
My only hands on experience was a friend's 1916 similar to mine that had 28s in a set of IDF40's and it didnt work
Admittedly the owner wouldnt fiddle and try and sort it
You can ream out your 115's but the 28's will need to be replaced.
Try the 28's and 115's
You may be one of te people that can get it to work
Please let me know how you go
Futue te ipsum!!!
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spdterence
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 09:15 PM |
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Yeh - should be an interesting experiment. Where do I find replacement venturis though. Did a search on Samba - nothing there, fleabay either. Might
have to ring someone! Terry
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Today:
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1916cc of Stans magic
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Tomorrow
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colonel mustard
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| posted on October 15th, 2009 at 10:04 PM |
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Possibly CB performance?
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 16th, 2009 at 01:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by spdterence
. Where do I find replacement venturis though.
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Thry these places
AC.net definitely - but they only do 32's and 36's
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=FSK0008&c...
CB definitely - they do 34's
CB's shipping price is usually a killer though
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1156
This add is for Dellorto venturis but he sells a LOT of Webers. I am sure he would have some.
He has a VERY good reputation
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DELLORTO-36-DRLA-CHOKE-SIZE-30mm_W0QQcmdZViewI...
These guys seem to be doing some stuff in Australia
http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/GEM-PARTS-AUSTRALIA
Just a pain - you shouldnt have needed to do it
If your 36's work with 32's
28's may just move the power band down a bit
I will be interested in what happens
On the up side - at least the $$$ is good now
You can talk to Holzl and see is he can get some CB ones in his next order??
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 16th, 2009 at 01:27 PM |
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and Redline Weber in Australia
http://www.redlineauto.com.au/products/category/JWVKBDBA
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 16th, 2009 at 01:37 PM |
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me find a link for you when I get home from work.
it may help
you can also buy fuel miser carburettor repair kits for webers at Autopro. if you need gaskets and stuff.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on October 16th, 2009 at 05:21 PM |
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or you could just get your 28's machined out to 32................easy as !
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ian.mezz
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| posted on October 16th, 2009 at 07:45 PM |
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http://www.carburetorclinic.com/setup.htm
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spdterence
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| posted on October 16th, 2009 at 08:13 PM |
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Thanks for the tip Matt on the cleaning - I did a bit last night but only did it by 1/2. There was quite a bit of flaky metal and a few machine
shavings in there. Will go a bit harder this time.
Ian - the article on set up is great - I knew there was float setting involved - but didn't know where to find an article on that. Cheers.
Venturies - a lathe! - what a good idea - as long as there is enough material there to machine I guess. I suppose I can always take them out to 32 -
try them and then try 34 I guess via that method - Bizarre - you might have a spare set of 28's too I would imagine ha ha.
One of the US site mentions that the enrichment circuit is a good thing to block off - but have know idea how to do this or if this is
actually a good idea - any thoughts?
Thanks heaps guys -
Smile - It confuses people
Today:
Aussie 69 IRS pan Brazilian curves
1916cc of Stans magic
Fat boy stainless extractors
Craig & Tims 3 bar stiffy
Tomorrow
Cooookies
Better brakes |
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spdterence
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 06:17 AM |
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- Accelerator pump bypass
IDF and IDA Pump Bypass
Part #: FSK0041
Price: $ 14.95 When the accellerator pump diaphragm pushes fuel, some goes to the squirter, and some goes BACK to the float bowl thru the
pump bypass. IDFs come with a 55, and if you drop this to a zero, ALL the fuel is squirted towards the cylinder (not back into the float bowl), which
eliminates hesitation, especially with today's oxygenated fuels! You need 1 bypass per carb. IDAs come with a 0 Bypass.
This is off the aircooled.net website. Any thoughts on this for IDF - while I am setting them up. I am sure the Italians had a reason for it - but
then again might have been too much wine with lunch! Terry
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Today:
Aussie 69 IRS pan Brazilian curves
1916cc of Stans magic
Fat boy stainless extractors
Craig & Tims 3 bar stiffy
Tomorrow
Cooookies
Better brakes |
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 06:56 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by spdterence
One of the US site mentions that the enrichment circuit is a good thing to block off - but have know idea how to do this or if this is
actually a good idea - any thoughts?
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See the anodized plate on the left carb
That is the enrichment block off plate
You carbs wont fit if you havent taken these off.
They are not needed. Alfas used a cort of choke set up
Never heard of that other thing about by pass - but every thing Jon Conolly has told me has been true
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Futue te ipsum!!!
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matberry
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 10:11 AM |
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Definately the vents need to be change and they have enough material to be machined out. Mike at CBB did a set for me recently, and as we were chasing
tuneup we did back to back dyno runs on his machined venturi's and a set that were from Weber that were not machined (ie cast 34mm) and the machined
version is what gave a better fuel mixture throughout the rev range (after getting the emulsions right). These were 34mm which I would recommend for a
very mild 1915. This was an auto engine and we wanted perfect jetting and after 8 dyno sessions changing exhaust chokes jets etc we ended up with 34
vent; 55;140;200;F7.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 10:35 AM |
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F7??? wow
F11 is the common one
I have heard of people using F2's
My 36's came with F57 from the Alfa's - but i could NEVER get them to behave
(probably showing ignorance here  ) just not heard of people using
F7's
See what benefit 8 dyno sessions can do
Futue te ipsum!!!
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matberry
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| posted on October 17th, 2009 at 11:09 AM |
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There were 8 dyno sessions as the owner had too much input and was trying to save money by doing much of the work himself which can create some
issues. We did exhaust changes and had some issues with the NEW Webers being full of swarf etc etc....it all takes time and dont assume anything was
the lesson there. The F7's are a richer low end of the main circuit emulsion and cured a slight flat spot but the gas readings were amazing how much
smoother it all became as the correct jetting combo all came together. The dyno operator couldn't believe what we achieved with such a simple change.
He hated Webers saying they are hard to get right.....they are Haltech expert's and were really surprised to see the Webers fall into place
eventually.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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spdterence
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| posted on October 18th, 2009 at 02:09 PM |
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Cleaned up the carbies. Lots of crap in there! So that was a good thing.
Now the bad thing. The buggers won't fit! The manifolds seem to be taking the carbies too close to the fan housing. I think I need to machine the
base of the manifolds to change the angle of the manifold, then take some more off the top to level the carbie again.
Ah the joys. 
Smile - It confuses people
Today:
Aussie 69 IRS pan Brazilian curves
1916cc of Stans magic
Fat boy stainless extractors
Craig & Tims 3 bar stiffy
Tomorrow
Cooookies
Better brakes |
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BiX
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| posted on October 18th, 2009 at 02:53 PM |
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I know my Dells had issues, but it was only about 8mm of so. I got a nice ball hammer and put a 1inch wide 5mm deep dish in the side and there was
also a casting that stuck out on the dells so jsut slightly filed it back.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 18th, 2009 at 05:57 PM |
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just use the manifolds you already have??
Otherwise the ball pein hammer
Futue te ipsum!!!
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