| [ Total Views: 873 | Total Replies: 16 | Thread Id: 79816 ] |
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 Hutcho
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:15 PM |
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Damn rear wheel nuts! Anyone have a good steel post in Sydney I could borrow?
Hi guys,
Just bent the gal pipe I was using to try and remove those bloody tight rear wheel nuts. 
Anyone in Sydney, preferably Eastern Subs, have a good heavy duty steel post I could borrow to crack these things?
I need one asap!
Cheers,
Steve
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
Veteran Volks Folk
karmann crazy
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:18 PM |
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.
go rip out a street sign............oops, did i say that
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:20 PM |
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Hi
I'm in Lugarno, not far away 0490 020 338 if you want to borrow my big bit of pipe.
Steve
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silver
Veteran Volks Folk
Dangerous when poked
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:34 PM |
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I'm near steve and also can lend you a 1 metre breaker bar with 3/4 drive socket i have used it for 20 years, always works
Keeping it real !
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 10:46 PM |
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wheel nuts or axle nuts?
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 10:57 PM |
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either way.... you can use impact to break em :P.
I'm a big bloke so it works for me :P
Get your breaker bar... fit it horizontal with the socket fully in place... (works for both wheel and axle nuts). And with the handbrake on, jump on
the bar. Support yourself by holding onto the roof guttering while you doing it.
With my body off the pan i held onto the wheel. didn't hurt myself! and i worked the charm to 'crack' the bolts loose.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 01:58 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by silver
I'm near steve and also can lend you a 1 metre breaker bar with 3/4 drive socket i have used it for 20 years, always works
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Yes,
its very easy to break off 1/2 inch drive breaker bars
[sidchrome] while jumping up and down on a 5 ft piece of pipe.
5 ft is the official length of pipe needed to tighten the axle nut to the correct torque... !! [USA]
sometimes You will need 6 ot 7 foot of 50mm pipe to undo the axle nut...
I always use anti seize on the axle when replacing the nuts..
to get the correct torque..
If the axle nuts are NOT done up to the correct torque settings... the brake drums will chew out on the splines..
wheel bolts only need the VW socket and bar to tighten them up.. the jack bar is about 35cms long..
just remember to tighten in stages on opposite bolts..
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 02:03 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Hutcho
Hi guys,
Just bent the gal pipe I was using to try and remove those bloody tight rear wheel nuts.
Anyone in Sydney, preferably Eastern Subs, have a good heavy duty steel post I could borrow to crack these things?
I need one asap!
Cheers,
Steve
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Are We talking about AXLE nuts or the wheel bolts ??
wheel bolts should always be put on and tightened by hand with a wheel brace... or VW tools..
12 inch breaker bar should do the trick normally..
although when they let go....
it can hurt your hands....
they need to be done up evenly - opposite bolt to opposite bolt until they are all done up tight..
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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greedy53
Bishop of Volkswagenism
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 05:44 AM |
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are these all left hand release twist i can't remember i'm just old memory's going ummmmmmmmmm what was i saying
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Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 07:49 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
Yes,
its very easy to break off 1/2 inch drive breaker bars
[sidchrome] while jumping up and down on a 5 ft piece of pipe.
LEE
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i dont know what posseses people to even atempt axle nuts and flyhweel glandnuts with 1/2 drive breaker bars 
even if they dont break they're not gonna get anywhere near the correct torque
i use the old jump on gal water pipe trick with my cars as my rattle gun just hasnt got the balls to undo the axle nuts
works well but you have to be careful as its so easy for the socket to slip off the nut when u jump on the bar
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 09:34 AM |
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Hi
I have a 3/4 tension wrench that I use to tighten the axle nuts, the factory torque is not high as you might expect, I can do it to the correct
tension with my tension wrench with one hand.
Steve
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1500S
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 03:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
I have a 3/4 tension wrench that I use to tighten the axle nuts, the factory torque is not high as you might expect, I can do it to the correct
tension with my tension wrench with one hand.
Steve
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Good lad Steve! For tightening and I must add, a light
lubrication regardless of what some of the septic tanks argue against!! the torque for us old fellows is 217 ft lbs. That is if we have a bar 12
inches long and we weigh 217 lbs and we stand on the end with our weight (MASS!) the correct torque will be applied. If the bar is 24 inches long we
only need half the mass to get the correct torque. If we weigh around 100kg (220 lb) then for this size bar we are over tightning the nut. Now for
the youngsters who only understand metric. the book says 30 kgM. In
other words a bar 1 metre long you only have to apply a force of 30 kg on the end.
NOW
To undo the thing which was most likely put together with no sign of lubricant or anti seize and has been around the traps since eternity, the contact
faces of the nut and hub will have that corrosion stuff there called RUST which is why we have to stand on the longer bar to overcome that horrid
thing called friction.
Hope that adds to Lee's advice but then again, maybe I don't know much about engineering calculations 
DH
PS. And for those wheel bolts which the tyre fitter gorillas have tightened with the old rattle gun with the threads and taper as dry as a nun's
nasty, a sharp hit with one of Burchall's FBH s will help before you try with the wheel brace!!
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
Custom Title Time!
AKA Josh
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 03:58 PM |
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Another way to do it is get a new car jack, one that is shaped like a diamond and put it under the bar and use the jack to push the bar up. Works well
for all tight bolts in hard spots to get leverage on.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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Use your head, don't abuse it!
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 09:23 PM |
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I used one of those 4 sided tyre spanners, bound to a big bit of hardwood with rope. I twisted the end off the socket. Thankfully I had another one
that twisted and bent but got the rest. My rattlegun didn't stand a chance. I'm talking about wheel nuts here, not axle nuts by the way. Bloody tyre
service people and their rattleguns.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Hutcho
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on October 26th, 2009 at 06:55 AM |
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Thanks for all the advice guys,
I'm talking about the 32mm AXLE nut on the bastard child (Porsche 914). I'm bolting on a 911 front and new 5 stud hubs/discs on the rear for the
Fuchs that should be here either today/tomorrow. I did say wheel nut in my first post. Sorry.
I've got a good socket and 3/4 bar. The pipe that I was using was a fairly bodgy 2 mtr piece of pipe. It couldn't take my weight (85kg) off the end
of it before bending.
Thanks for the offer Steve and Silver. I'm at work for the next couple of days now. I think I can smuggle out a good bar that I found there. If I get
caught, I'll be paying one of you a visit!
Cheers,
Steve
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 vw54
Super Administrator
Always Waiting 4 Friday
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| posted on October 26th, 2009 at 07:12 AM |
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dont over tighten the wheel bolt as this will warp the drum on early bugs n busses
there only susposed to be 22ft Lb
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tuff914
Casual Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2009 at 07:28 AM |
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Hi Hutcho,
Just started a similar thread over at 914world check out their reply's
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=100545&hl=castellated nut&st=20
Good luck, I also found penetrating oil helps
cheers
John
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