| [ Total Views: 1617 | Total Replies: 12 | Thread Id: 80519 ] |
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 pudgy
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| posted on November 28th, 2009 at 12:34 PM |
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FS BNE: used T1 dual Weber 40IDF kit (CB Performance)
Hi,
Since I've long gone fuel injection, I am wanting to sell my CB Performance dual Weber 40IDF kit. This was originally used on a mild 1915 T1 and
produced great performance and economy.
I put around 15K KMs on them from new, and they had no problems when removed. However they have been sitting for 2 years without use, so as a
precaution I am including 2 brand new rebuild gasket kits (and also a partial kit which I used at one point when resetting the float height). If you
don't need the kits, then they are $50 each so you could sell them off.
What I am including is everything you need to get them installed, running and tuned on your T1.
Here's what is included:
- 2x40IDF (Spanish) carbs with 32mm venturis and redline velocity stacks. From memory they have 115 or 120 mains and 50 or 55 idles (can check is
required), but it was jetted well for a 1915.
- CB performance cross bar linkage and "K&N-type" air filters. The air filter tops have -8 connectors welded in for crankcase ventilation,
however you can buy block offs from your favourite hose supplier. I will clean and re-oil the filters if you want.
- 2 NEW CB performance T1 manifolds (I bought new ones to include in package as mine were welded for my engine).
- NEW SK synchrometer
- 2 NEW rebuild kits and remainder of another (mainly just has diaphragms and o-rings left).
- Used Italian Malpassi "fuel king" regulator
- Used Peirberg (German) electric fuel pump (using the T1 mechanical pump with regulator is fine though)
- 2 new good quality fuel filters
- 4 NEW 34mm venturis. Flog them off if your application doesn't need them.
- Used 25MM VDO fuel pressure gauge
Also IF I can find them I'll include my jet collection, but at the moment I am not sure where they are.
I am looking for $700 for the kit (I recently spent $200 recently in the States to ensure I could sell it as a useful kit not missing anything). I am
in Brisbane, but can ship anywhere in Oz. PM or post if interested.
Thanks for looking,
Peter
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spdterence
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| posted on November 28th, 2009 at 02:13 PM |
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Hey mate I am interested - first dibs please. Please have a look for the PM. Terry
Smile - It confuses people 
Today:
Aussie 69 IRS pan Brazilian curves
1916cc of Stans magic
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Tomorrow
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on November 28th, 2009 at 05:36 PM |
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Any details on the injection setup you're now running ???
Curious since I'm in the early planning stages to put injection on my 1916....
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pudgy
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 10:48 AM |
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Kit is now sold, thanks for looking.
As for Side's Q, I've been through a few EFI revisions. I've always used an old V2.2 Wolf3D ECU though. First revision I used EFI Hardware DCOE
throttle bodies (but mounted upright like IDFs). After that I went CB Performance hideaway turbo, and ended up using hacked up stock dual port end
casting which had the injector bosses welded in, but also were converted to individual runner. That was using a made up centre plenum with a Magna
throttle body. ECU also does spark and so engine is distributor-less with the steel pickup mounted for an alloy pulley and the sensor mounted to a
bracket that's welded to the alternator stand (simple but not too great for adjustments).
Car is currently having it's long overdue restoration (although with me doing it I use that term loosely) and will stay turbo but go to a Mexibug EFI
end castings and centre plenum (and the current setup will be saved for a bigger NA setup I am thinking of) and also get an air-water intercooler.
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 11:37 AM |
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What crank sensor did you go for, and any chance could share some pics on how the mounting etc. works ? Also curious what you mean by "not too great
for adjustments".... I thought you normally the sensor was locked and adjustments done via the ECU...
Managed to score a set of Injection Perfection IDA throttle bodies, injectors and linkage, but really only just starting to think about the ignition
side of things. Current plan is twin plugs per cyl running direct fire.... so 4 x dual-post coils hooked to 2 x 2ch ignitors, with a Haltech PS100 for
the ECU.
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Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners |
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pudgy
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 11:59 AM |
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I'll grab a few pics when next in the shed. It's a bit grubby at the mo, but you'll see what I did. By adjustments I mean the air gap and
alignment, the sensor has elongated mounting holes (which allows for up down/up adjustment) and I have to use washers for any to/fro adjustment. The
sensor I think is a GM one. That said I never had problems with the pickup, but it was decidedly low tech and I always worried about heat expansion
and things affecting the pickup. But it was reliable and less expensive than a fancy billet one. The pickups were just hand fabricated and screwed
into the pulley and rebalanced. For the next one I do I might built a mount into the fuel pump block-off area, and would probably just get a laser cut
full circle disk.
From what I thought understood of dual plugs, they were mainly for redundancy in aircraft apps (although they worked for Alfa I guess), do they
produce a better burn?
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on December 5th, 2009 at 12:33 PM |
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OK, cool - thanks.
With the twin plugs, from what I've read the theory is that the two ignition sources gives two flame fronts and therefore a faster burn. From there
should be a case of being able to run less total advance for the same power, and being able to run a flatter (less steep) advance curve.
But yeah - don't really know until try it I guess !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners |
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dekkerboy
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| posted on December 13th, 2009 at 10:00 AM |
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You know you can use those dual carbies for efi you can just get the different manifold ends and are you using a vr sensor and edis 4.
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 Bizarre
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| posted on December 13th, 2009 at 12:31 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dekkerboy
You know you can use those dual carbies for efi you can just get the different manifold ends and are you using a vr sensor and edis 4.
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Ummmm..................please explain more??
I dont get it??? 
Futue te ipsum!!!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on December 13th, 2009 at 02:08 PM |
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I think he means injectors in the endports and use the webers as throttle bodies..... sounds like a waste of cash if thats what he is getting at.
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pudgy
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| posted on December 13th, 2009 at 07:17 PM |
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IMO, it would be sacrilege to mutilate good IDFs to make throttle bodies. If you had knackered carbs then it could make sense, but if they were that
knackered they'd probably need re-bushing etc. and at that point I think it'd be better just to use motorcycle or aftermarket throttle bodies.
Sides, as promised here if a picture of my ignition pickup. Nothing fancy but it worked. Pickup is an inductive GM or something (maybe Camira) and I
believe is the one Wolf recommended. The mount for the trigger is just an L-bracket welded to the alternator stand. You can see some of the trigger
points on the pulley. The Wolf needs a single tooth on side and a dual tooth 180 degrees around (the tooth size, distance etc. all needs to be as per
ECU needs.) The pulley got balanced without any problem (the single tooth's base part which attaches to the pulley is the same size as the dual just
to be close weight wise to the other side). It was a cheap and cheerful way to do it and I'll be running the same setup once the car gets back on
the road (body resto and chassis mods). If you are engineering your own, probably consider some adjustability, less susceptibility to thermal
expansion and thus air gap changes, and also keep it further away from the alternator to get a better signal (I am using shielded-type wire from
Jaycar without any triggering issues). Those couple of considerations are probably what I'd do different next time around, although as I've said I
haven't had any problems as it is currently setup, just think I know better ways now...
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on December 14th, 2009 at 06:58 AM |
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Ahh, cool - now I understand. Thanks for tips and pics pudgy !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners |
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dekkerboy
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| posted on December 22nd, 2009 at 09:24 PM |
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Yer it is a waste of mony so thats why you go get proper throttle boddies. As for ignition you should (or could) use a vr sensor and ford edis 4. i
would recomend this. I would also recomend megasquirt 2 efi controler aswell.
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