| [ Total Views: 15691 | Total Replies: 73 | Thread Id: 80860 ] |
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 Joel
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| posted on February 2nd, 2010 at 09:37 PM |
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and yes ive seen orgasmo i know what DVDA stands for 
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waveman1500
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| posted on February 2nd, 2010 at 09:50 PM |
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Yeah, I've got one of the normal steel vac canisters on my 1500 single port. Didn't they also fit DVDAs on late Type 3s as well? My uncle seemed to
believe that one of those would have been factory fitment on my '73 Type 3, and he generally knows his VWs pretty well. He also reckoned that they
have a better advance curve (in single vacuum mode) than the older type of vac advance distributors. I'm pretty keen to swap the 009 from my Type 3
with the DVDA, as it's driving me around the bend with pinging at ridiculously low static timing settings in the Type 3, but it might be alright in
the Bug. Have no idea what's going on with that Type 3 motor, it just loves to ping!
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Joel
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| posted on February 2nd, 2010 at 10:15 PM |
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its that useless POS 009 causing your pinging
it'll be just as bad on the bug if not worse for flat spots
last type3 i drove with a 009 was an auto and was it ever a pig
009s have no place on a stock engine theyre designed to idle and rev flat out ie. race engines
people chuck them on stock motors cos they're cheap not cos they work
so many people dont seem to get that timing needs to advance with engine load ie vacuum not only with revs like a 009 does
if a vac advance wasnt needed the factory woulda save millions not installing them
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waveman1500
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| posted on February 2nd, 2010 at 10:21 PM |
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Yeah, I'm beginning to feel that way myself after buying this car. It sort of boggles the mind that I'm running a stock Type 3 engine on 98 octane
with about 7.5 degrees static timing and still pinging through 3rd and 4th gears. I've tried fiddling with it for quite a while so I supppose it's
time to give up on the 009 and put some vac advance on! I don't know why the person who put it on there would have left it pinging so badly though.
Perhaps they'd never driven it up a hill or over 50mph, as it was perfect on the flat when I got it, but pinged as soon as it even smelled a hill!
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Joel
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| posted on February 2nd, 2010 at 10:25 PM |
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perfect example of why they suck
crawling up a hill like that the engines under big load but cos theres no vac advance the timing couldnt be further off
it'll be a totally different animal back the way the good doc intended
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waveman1500
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| posted on February 4th, 2010 at 11:48 PM |
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Okay, I'm officially at my wit's end now! I've spent two days trying to get the ignition system of my Type 3 to co-operate. Basically, the car
pings all the time and is generally slow. I blame all of these problems on the Bosch 009 distributor.
I took the 009 out and took it apart. When I got to the bottom of it I found that only one of the centrifugal advance 'arms' had a spring on it.
There are two arms, and it appears that one has a lesser effect on the advance (smaller range of movement) than the other. The smaller arm was missing
both the weight and the spring. Is this normal?
I then went to try and fit a DVDA distributor, but due to the Type 3 fan housing and the generator, I could only fit it at an odd angle. Once
installed, I didn't seem to be able to rotate it enough to obtain correct timing without the vacuum canister or condenser fouling on something. I
believe that these distributors were factory fitted to these cars, but I couldn't work out which way they go in.
After this I relented and re-fitted the 009, so the car is now running again. Unfortunately it is still very sluggish with acceleration flatspots and
heavy pinging under high loads. Can anyone help?!
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Octa
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| posted on February 5th, 2010 at 11:57 AM |
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IIRC the 009 on a type 3 has to be timed different than a normal dizzy. In my old notch the PO also installed an 009, after searching through
thesamba.com I was able to time it (at least minimising the flat spot). The problem with the 009 way of timing is that it can shorten the life of
your motor because it is slightly advanced due to having to account for the TD being at a different spot.
Also, IIRC, you cannot put a Type 1 dizzy on a type 3, the dizzy for a type 3 is specific with a 311 part number.
Let me see if I can find the 009 timing procedure.
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Octa
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| posted on February 5th, 2010 at 12:00 PM |
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OK, found some info:
009 are timed at 30* full advance (about 3000-3500 rpm), and letting the idle timing fall where it wants to. adjust your carb(s) accordingly. if you
encounter pinging, back off to 28*, and if you dare, you can go as far as 32* (according to some).
No, when I said above that a type 3 engine cannot take a Type 1 dizzy, I meant to say that since they are not specific to type 3 you will have a hell
of a time to get them to fit and possibly time it.
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Octa
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| posted on February 5th, 2010 at 12:10 PM |
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Here is a good post in the samba that describes the process and also includes timing charts and photos of where 30degrees may be in your engine.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265340&postdays=0&po...
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waveman1500
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| posted on February 5th, 2010 at 09:53 PM |
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Thanks a lot for the advice Octa. I had already read on the internet about the 30 degrees total timing with a light, but I don't have a timing light.
I can easily borrow one but I was hoping to hear some extra tips from personal experience. Most importantly, why does my 009 only have one spring and
one weight, when there are two arms?
I was hoping that there wasn't a Type 3-specific distributor, but I suppose it must be the case. Looks like I'm stuck with the 009 for now then, as
I would rather spend money on my S-bug and sell the Type 3 rather than rebuild the Type 3 to my liking. At the end of the day I like to flick my VWs
quickly through the corners and the Type 3 Squareback is just a little bit heavy for that! The S-bug should go well though, especially once I get a
decent exhaust and carbs on it.
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 11:06 PM |
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Okay, belated update time! Does anyone remember my S-Bug?
I bought it as a rolling shell, as seen above. It seems to have been sitting around for several years since it was stripped and painted, so it needed
a bit of work to get it going again. My good mate Rex and myself have brought it mostly back to life by transplanting bits off my crashed 1500. So far
we have changed the front brake calipers and pads, rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders and drums, clutch and engine. I also fitted up the door hardware
and windows, and it's now got a new bonnet seal, door seals, a swap from MPH to KPH speedo and plenty of other bits and pieces. Here's how it looked
today after being rolled out into the sunlight for the first time in a long while.
On the hunt for the old car owner's perpetual enemy, I stripped out all of the old sound deadening material, and sure enough I managed to find some
ferrous oxide festering away. I'm part way through treating this now.
For some reason, the front-left corner is almost the only area affected by rust. There's a little bit of pitting in the battery mounting area, but
that's to be expected.
The rear luggage area has already been painted, and most of this was taken back to bare metal with a paint-stripping disc on an angle grinder. There
are quite a few rather large holes drilled in the rear luggage area for some reason though, perhaps a huge sub box was mounted back here at some
stage?
The engine bay is pretty much all sorted. The engine starts on the key and runs beautifully, although I think the ignition wiring might be the wrong
way around as it only starts when you let go of the starter! Wiring has been the biggest headache in putting this car back together, as so much of it
was ripped out when the car was disassembled for painting.
I think this car might be sitting a bit too high for a stock Super Bug, as I've currently got 28cm of ground clearance at the front of the running
boards, and 29cm at the rear! Good for off-road work, although perhaps a touch high for street duties. I may look at adjusting this, depending on how
it drives. I'm very tempted at this stage to make a bull-bar for the front of it, put some nice chunky tires on my set of Sunraysia-style rims and go
for an off-road style!
So that's progress so far. I painted the rest of the floor this afternoon and it should be dry by now. Tomorrow I will probably put a driver's seat
back in it. Work will then need to continue on the wiring loom. Any auto electrical experts out there who would like to lend a hand? I may be in over
my head with the electricals on this car! I definitely know that I need to buy an indicator flasher and a headlight relay, and then comes the big job
of working out what all the pins on the back of the steering column do! How can there be 16 pins just for indicators, wipers and high beam?
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 5th, 2010 at 06:01 PM |
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First wash ever today!
Looking good! Shiniest VW I've ever owned by a long shot. I got my sister to hold the engine lid while I lined it up, I think we did a pretty good
job.
Looking good with a shiny new number plate bolted on. It still looks way too far off the ground though. I might have to drop the rear by one spline,
even for off-road work!
I'm finished painting the floor for now, so I've now put in the front seatbelts, driver's seat and the rear side trims.
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 09:12 PM |
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I bit the bullet today and did something I've been a bit nervous to do, which was to cut down the splash guard/backing plates on the front discs so
that my large collection of 14x6" wheels will all fit on my car now. I just ripped into it freehand with a 1mm cutoff wheel on a 4" grinder, and all
came out okay. No damage to brake calipers or anything, and the wheels fit without hitting the brakes or suspension. Whew!
Tried the wheels on and pulled it outside for some pics in the fading light. Today was also a milestone, as the garage where this car will live is
finally tidy enough to put the car in, so it was moved to it's new home.
The car still sits WAY higher than I would imagine a stock Super Beetle should. It has probably 15L of fuel in the tank and no spare wheel or back
seat, but it's still a lot higher than I want it, even though it will be used off-road. Is this really stock height?!
I do have a front bumper for it and it will be going on as soon as I get another bracket for it, as I only have the right one!
So there you have it! All it needs now is a passenger seat, a lot of wiring and a front bumper bracket, then it's ready to hit the streets. I can't
wait!
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SVD_Tys
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| posted on April 14th, 2010 at 07:04 PM |
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bout time jeez, haha, nah looking good dude, thinkin i mite hav to settle for a later model bug now, as there easyer to come by |
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 14th, 2010 at 08:32 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SVD_Tys
bout time jeez, haha, nah looking good dude, thinkin i mite hav to settle for a later model bug now, as there easyer to come by
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G'day Tyson! You're welcome to come round and help wire it up if you want to see it on the road, mate! I'm hoping to sell the wagon this weekend so
the Superbeetle will be on the road asap. Let me know how you go with the search for Beetles, but don't be tempted by the dark side! Torsion bars
ftw, these coil-sprung cars are too new-fangled for my liking. :p
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 17th, 2010 at 03:21 PM |
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The two cars together.
Oh, and the tatty old carpet from my old bug is in the Superbug now, too.
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 22nd, 2010 at 11:02 PM |
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Exciting update today but nothing to take pics of. The Type 3 wagon has now been sold for a couple of days. The bug had a lot of wiring problems
sorted out by an auto electrician, and I went for the first drive today! Drove to the servo and filled up on petrol. A couple of problems have emerged
though. The most annoying is that the starter motor solenoid has stopped working somehow and although it still clicks loudly, it's now not connecting
the contacts for the starter motor. I'll be fixing this tomorrow. Also, the wiper motor is either seized or burnt out, but the one from my old car is
good. It has different connectors though, so I may have to swap it in and cut up the wiring loom a bit. Exciting stuff indeed!
First impressions from the first drive: this car is good! The steering wheel is 90 degrees to the right whilst driving in a straight line, so perhaps
a wheel alignment may be in order! Brakes are alright, but could do with bleeding again for the fourth time. The engine, gearbox and clutch seem
pretty good and the car feels quick and lively. Can't wait to fix some of the problems tomorrow and take it for a real drive!
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pete wood
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| posted on April 23rd, 2010 at 05:03 PM |
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is this car getting a run at motorkhanas? you know there were factory 1302 rally cars back in the day?
http://www.rallybugs.com/
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 24th, 2010 at 06:22 PM |
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Well pete, the original plan from the beginning was to khanacross the car, but with paint this nice it's almost too good for off-road work! If I
wanted to preserve the nice paintwork then I could lower it by about 10cm and then use it for hillclimbs and concrete motorkhanas, but I did enjoy the
dirt track stuff last time I did it. I'm definitely aware of the rallybugs site though, one of my favourites. I've been through that site many
times. Many things to think about, and whilst I've never been precious about hurting body panels before, by the same token I've never competed in a
straight car with decent paint! Decisions, decisions.
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waveman1500
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| posted on May 14th, 2010 at 11:54 PM |
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It's time for an update of pics! I've spent the best part of today polishing up the paint and bumpers, polishing up a bonnet badge and putting it
on, and getting a few other little things done. I thought that this deserved some photos, especially since I haven't even taken a photo with the
front bumper on yet!
Why on earth do so many people put running board trim strips on with the protective plastic still on?! My last car had this as well. It infuriated me
so much that I took the whole trim strip off after taking this photo to get all the plastic off properly. The trim clips didn't go back on as tightly
and will never be the same again, but it was worth it!
The interior is still a work in progress. Currently stripped out with no sound deadening or rear seat, and only the front carpet in place. I've
swapped the stock steering wheel for my leather Formuling one, and made up a new centre from aluminium plate to replace the missing horn button. I
don't have it hooked up yet though, as I couldn't figure out a good way to connect to the factory horn ring contact arrangement. On my old 1500 the
horn wire just ran up the centre of the steering column, what on earth was wrong with that arrangement? A much better design in my opinion.
Everyone loves a VW bonnet badge! Hopefully nobody else will decide they love this one more than me.
Here is the shot which best shows my current biggest problem: wheel fitment. The wheels I have on it at the moment are definitely 14x6", in pairs
with two different offsets. The front pair has a greater offset, which leaves only about 2cm clearance to the spring, but the 195/70R14 tyres still
stick out of the sides of the guards by a couple of centimetres. The rear tyres sit further out and are way off, perhaps 3cm outside the guards. I'm
sure that going down to narrower section tyres would help, but I don't know whether it will be enough to get these rims to clear the stock guards. If
money wasn't an object I'd like to keep the wheels and get wider guards, but this seems a bit of a waste of the excellent paint on the current
guards.
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jjwebb123
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| posted on May 15th, 2010 at 07:52 AM |
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theres some nice pics her
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with
courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
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Joel
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| posted on May 15th, 2010 at 10:12 AM |
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bug scrubbed up well 
with the horn button all you need to do is one side hooks to the copper contact ring obviously and the other just grounds to the steering wheel
itself
the older earth wire up the shaft had a tendency to break from the constant movement so it was simplified in later bugs
the steering wheel being metal is bolted to the shaft, which is bolted to the steering box which is bolted to the body so its all grounded, no need
for the earth wire.
Also before you get to much dash reassembly done one suggestion, remove the 2 dash speaker grilles either side of the speedo and cut out some black
vinyl the same shape and put it betweem the grilles and the body.
even with new hood seals the wind that will come through it on to your hands in winter will drive you nuts, looks neater too
I did that with my 71 after too many frozen fingers driving to school in winter
another of my pet hates with flat screen bugs
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RZEDGE
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| posted on May 15th, 2010 at 12:13 PM |
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Bug looks great! Makes me want to get another one to play with! Best finish my current project first though....
Current
'69 Type 34 Ghia
'64 Splitscreen Van
'72 Low Light Single Cab
'73 Bay-Bus Camper (for sale)
Past
'57 Beetle
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on October 26th, 2010 at 02:51 PM |
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Great stuff mate,
Just finished reading the whole post theres a lot there  . Keep going
it looks great. About the wheel you could lower the front and put thinner stiffer coils on. That way you could put more of the tyre on the inside and
have a tighter font end. Def lowetr the rear too. I would take the spring plates out and have a go yourself. Its nott too hard, just doo some pre
reading and away you go. I think the rule of thumb is the rear one inch lower than the front for good handling... i may be wrong.
Good luck
PS there is such a thing as a 4 wheel alignment, but i don't know who can do a Bug well in adelaide.
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1971dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2010 at 06:42 AM |
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Love your stuff indeed, I was wondering what type of seats are they that you have put it, they look great! Also you have made me want a square back
now!
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Gangel
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| posted on January 7th, 2011 at 01:33 AM |
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Agreed with the seats, what are they from, how much and how did u fit them!??
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waveman1500
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| posted on February 4th, 2011 at 01:42 PM |
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Wow, this thread has had replies while I wasn't watching! Thanks all for your interest.
The rear end of the car has now been lowered, with the help of my uncle. We used new torsion bar rubbbers and an original VW protractor. The people
who had set it up beforehand were crazy, they had so much preload in there that it was sitting only a milllimetre or so off the lower stops! We took
about 8 degrees out of each side to get it back to approximately factory settings, so it's not low, but it rides and handles much better and looks
good. For some reason I haven't taken any photos of the car since the lowering, so they might appear later.
I'm not sure why there is so much interest in the seats, they're just cheap rubbish! I scored them for $100 the pair, already welded on to Superbug
rails, so I chucked them in. They're quite flat and the fabric is rough, grey and cheap. I don't know what car they're from originally but it
wasn't a coupe because they don't flip forward. I assume that it would be some kind of Aussie sedan, possibly a Magna? They're also a bit wide for
the bug so they actually touch in the middle of the car making access to the handbrake quite tricky. When I feel inspired I'm going to swap them for
the ones which I had in my white bug, which I don't know the origin of either.
Aussie Dubbin, there's a wheel aligner called John at Fred Vella tyres who was trained on doing VWs properly back in the day. He knows how to set
them up right. Unfortunately he wasn't able to get mine tracking straight! I think it needs a few new parts and maybe a bit of a tweak to the right
rear torsion bar tube to get it all back in spec. I don't really care because it drives nicely and doesn't scrub out the tyres.
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SA Fastback
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| posted on April 15th, 2011 at 10:21 PM |
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Wow awesome reading and very inspiring. Might have to get mine out from under the tree in the yard and get it going 
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waveman1500
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| posted on April 16th, 2011 at 02:22 PM |
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Thanks mate! Glad to hear that I've inspired you. Have some photo updates to keep the inspiration going.
Here it is all polished up for the Day of the Volkswagen a couple of weeks ago.
And at the actual show.
And here is my new polished stainless steel Sidewinder exhaust which I lashed out on at the show! It sounds awesome now, but backfires a lot on the
over-run. It also sticks out a very long way, so I'm probably going to shorten the tip of it by about 100mm or so.
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DieSchnelleKafer
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| posted on April 30th, 2011 at 08:39 PM |
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i think thats for a kombi dude??
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