| [ Total Views: 859 | Total Replies: 10 | Thread Id: 81650 ] |
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 super72beetle
A.k.a.: Simon
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 08:30 AM |
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Drum brake-Star adjuster stop broken
Hi Guys.
Whilst working on the rear drums last weekend I broke the small metal tab that stops the star adjuster from moving. I have made a temporary fix but am
wondering how the part is installed.
Are the metal tabs pressed into the block between the two star adjusters or is it part of the backing plate?
Before I go to the wreckers I want to know what part to buy.
Any advice will be much appreciated.
Cheers
Simon
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 08:37 AM |
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I think you be ok.
.
and they are easy to adjust up anyway.
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super72beetle
A.k.a.: Simon
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 09:01 AM |
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Thanks Ian.
You might be right. But as the star adjuster (one side) is now "free balling", that brake shoe will continue to get looser over time!
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 10:11 AM |
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Hi
It might be a too much trouble to fit a spring, a 2nd hand backing plate wouldn't be too hard find or fit.
Steve
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 07:09 PM |
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None of the cars that I have owned have ever even had those on. They must have been broken off years ago.
Unless the threads are really flogged out it should wind itself in. I've never had any trouble with mine and I keep them well greased to allow for
easy adjusting.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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greedy53
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 07:18 PM |
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never had brakes or tabs
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spdterence
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| posted on January 27th, 2010 at 07:35 PM |
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I had the same issue with a set of type 3 backing plates that I fitted recently. The spring on a Type 1 is just a single piece with the clips either
side running off it.
I drilled a hole and tapped a thread for a neat little cap screw - now very easy to change.
The block that holds the star adjuster and the springs is a solid block - so there is plenty of material to work with. Also - there is quite a gap
behind the star adjuster and bolt so using that area makes tapping the thread easier than into solid material.
The original spring was held inplace with a crimped metal / tab thing. I just ground that off with my Dremel and all is well. This preserved the
slot that the spring runs in at least - which might be a little hard to do with a bigger angle grinder.
I am sure you could salvage one of these springs from almost anywhere - there are tons around on old discarded backing plates etc etc as mentioned
above.
Have fun. Terry
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super72beetle
A.k.a.: Simon
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| posted on January 28th, 2010 at 07:56 AM |
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Thanks Guys. I might take the easy way out and just replace the whole backing plate. I'm sure they're not much coin at the wreckers.
Simon
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 matberry
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| posted on January 28th, 2010 at 12:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by super72beetle
Thanks Guys. I might take the easy way out and just replace the whole backing plate. I'm sure they're not much coin at the wreckers.
Simon
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I wouldn't bother. Tons of cars have them broken without issue. But if you get another backing plate make sure you get the correct model.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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shaihulud
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| posted on January 28th, 2010 at 06:42 PM |
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I fixed one of them by removing the old spring without damaging the slot that it fits in, carefully filing the slot straight, fitting a new one and
holding it in place with some judiciously placed dents with a centre punch. So far, it's held and works.
The slot has a slight taper, file it smooth, place the replacement with one edge in the slot and bang it with a big cold chisel to force it down into
the slot, then hit it a few times with a centre punch to jam it into place.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on January 28th, 2010 at 10:34 PM |
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i made a new one out of engine tin :P
Cut a same size piece for the side thats broken, put it on top of a 'near closed' bench vice. Get a flat head in the middle of the tin piece and
hammer it into the metal so that it drives a 'lock in triangle' dent into steel as it gets pushed into the gap of the 'near closed' vice grip
teeth.
Then spot weld it on It has enough ductility to do the job, but maybe
a slight bit more rigid in holding it in place.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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