[ Total Views: 857 | Total Replies: 15 | Thread Id: 81710 ] |
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annosL
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 01:36 PM |
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Ignition switch
Hi, my bug has been getting hard to start, when I turn the key to start nothing happens but if I wiggle it a bit while keeping clockwise pressure it
will contact and start. I know the starter motor is in good nick so am assuming the ignition switch is at fault due to wear. Am I right here or has
anyone more experience with this problem and if so what are the remedies? I remember a "how to replace barrel" tutorial on the forum a while back if
I need to do that. Any help appreciated, Neil.
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annosL
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 01:38 PM |
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Forgot to say Bug is '73 L bug
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Joel
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 02:07 PM |
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it would be either the contacts in the igntion switch dirty/burned or the slot in the switch that meshes with the barrel is worn out of shape
best bet is a new ignition switch and never hurts to install a relay on the starter wire to the solenoid
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annosL
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 04:24 PM |
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Thanks Joel, if I replace the switch can I fit the original barrel in it? may seem a silly question
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Snap Crackle Bang
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 07:11 PM |
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I've changed the electrical part of the ignition switch in 2 VW's i've owned in the past. One was a 1970 type 3 and the other was a T4 Syncro.
I think they were both the same part.
In those it was a matter of replacing a plastic part in the end of the barrel.
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Joel
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 08:56 PM |
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hi Neil, yep just the ignition switch part can be swapped out easy enough
if you go to my thread just skip the barrel removing part
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colonel mustard
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 09:07 PM |
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my switch worked some times, and other times it didnt. it turned out the switch was old and shattered. hence, didnt always work.
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annosL
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 11:37 PM |
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Thanks for your help, youve nailed it. Funny thing when I posted my query I went for a drive to Bunnings and had four flawless starts previous weeks it's been hard to start!
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annosL
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posted on January 30th, 2010 at 11:46 PM |
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Just read your instructions on ignition switch and barrel removal Joel, great effort there and thank you, I am confidant I can fix it now
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Joel
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posted on January 31st, 2010 at 08:34 AM |
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yep 9 times out of 10 its always the ignition switch thats to blame.
the plastic gets brittle with age and heat
the heat comes from the fact the contacts inside have a huge load going through them
by the time the power goes from the battery all the way to the front of the car through the pissy little contacts in the switch then all the way to
the back of the car combined with the load of pulling the solenoid in its no wonder they dont last
adding a relay to bypass all this is one of the best things you can do, the new switch will probably last forever
i even run a relay for the ignition circuit as well
when you think about the load of the coil, choke, cutoff solenoid, windscreen wipers, brake lights etc are all running through those little contacts
in the switch as well, you would be amazed how much better it works with a relay
now my wipers are alot quicker, when i had a vw motor it didnt idle down when the lights or wipers were turned on and my volt meter which used to only
sit at 12.7v at idle with the lights and wipers on now sat at 13.8v
and that was with a 50amp alternator
i hate to think what a poor old 30amp generator is going through
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shaihulud
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posted on January 31st, 2010 at 10:13 AM |
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I agree with Joel. Relays is the way to go, in both the ignition circuit and especially the starting circuit.
If you don't want to go to the bother of replacing the switch and the key, with another that could be just as bad as the current one (pun intended)
then fit a relay to the ignition circuit and a separate starter switch and relay. A big red starter button on the dashboard would look the
business.
I recently had exactly the same problem. I didn't have a VW ignition switch, but I found a switch and discovered that my shed key fits it. I fitted
it beside the steering column. It's a bit ugly, but it works a treat. I still have to carry the old key as it unlocks the doors.
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annosL
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posted on January 31st, 2010 at 12:19 PM |
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Good tips Shaihulud and Joel, excuse my ignorance but where would I likely get a relay for this and how does it wire in, in series? I'm not too
electrically savvy but this seems to be worthwhile doing. Would nearer the motor or fuse box be the best mount? Classic show the Ignition switch on
their site so a new one is the go
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Joel
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posted on January 31st, 2010 at 07:07 PM |
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any automotive store will have a relay
just a plain jane 30amp one as used with spotlights, air horns etc

theyre pretty simple to wire up.
mines now buried under a mess of subaru wires otherwise i'd do up a diagram
i always fit them under the rear seat so theyre protected and theres already a factory connector in the wire there which can be used to save having to
cut the wires
theyre just a switching device, instead of the power going from the battery, to the front of the car, thro the ignition switch then all the way back
to the startermotor by which time its lost abit of voltage, a relay allows u to send a nice big cable directly from the battery to the starter
motor.
the relay is an inline switch triggered by the original power from the ignition switch to operate
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annosL
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posted on January 31st, 2010 at 11:20 PM |
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Thanks Joel, straightforward to fit, will be my bug job for the week. My daughter drove it today (as it's officially her car!) and switch played up
for her, so switch and relay it is. Thank you for your helpful advice, Neil.
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Gazza265
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posted on February 8th, 2010 at 07:34 PM |
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Aha !!!...that is exactly the same problem I'm having with my daughter's 69 Bug...mmmmm..looks like a trip to the Auto store for a relay or two and
then some "under the back seat" work.
Fixer upperer of daughter's '69 Bug "Oscar"
Cheers
Gazza
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annosL
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posted on February 9th, 2010 at 12:45 PM |
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All done, fitted new switch from classic, needed a small mod as it was slightly different, and fitted relay as per Joels tips, (Auto one!) 40amp, 4
pin, screwed near the regulator position. It starts really well now, barely turn the key when it fires straight away. Moral to this could be if you
have trouble with starting look at the switch before condemming the key barrel.
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