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Author: Subject:  Getting Ready For Rego
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posted on February 10th, 2010 at 08:38 PM
Getting Ready For Rego


So my oil cooler is leaking something bad.

I need to replace the seals but i dont know what size to get.

Has anyone measure the size i need for a 1600 motor. Engine code as and its in a 71.

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posted on February 10th, 2010 at 09:05 PM



if its an AS 1600 then u need 10mm

http://www.classicveedub.com.au/images/SpareParts/clutch_engine/9256.bmp

make sure to replace the ones between the cooler and the flange as well as the flange to block ones
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posted on February 10th, 2010 at 09:08 PM



Your 1600 engine will need FOUR seals. Two of them fit between the stand-off and the case, and the other two go between the oil cooler and the stand-off.

VW general gasket kits come with several different sizes - sets for older steel coolers, sets for yours, and even 'adapter' sets that allow mixing and matching. You want the 'stepped' seals, not the 'O' ring type. As Joel has already posted - he's faster than me. Any VW parts shop will stock them - just tell them you have a 1600 with a doghouse cooler.

Read more about the VW oil cooler at http://www.vw-resource.com/oil_cooler.html 
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 12:50 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
So my oil cooler is leaking something bad.

I need to replace the seals but i dont know what size to get.

Has anyone measure the size i need for a 1600 motor. Engine code as and its in a 71.

Cheers


the 10mm ones as Joel has said...

best to do the four seals...

anyone ever have any leak before??

I have changed mine about 6-8 times in the past few years.. lol 8-10mm stepped ones.. on single port..

only time they leaked was when i didn;'t tighten the bolts lol..

scared the hell out of Me... lol

I hope it IS the seals and NOT the oil cooler...

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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 05:35 AM



Joel ring Boris at Vintage he can post the correct one s down to u overnight or just drive up the M5 to the shop



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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 06:23 AM



Hey dave, dads probably guna come into today and get them for me.

Cheers
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 07:43 AM



Hi

Don't want to scare you, but the case often cracks in that area, clean it up and have real good look or fit the new seal and run the motor for a few minutes with the fan housing off to check.

1600 twin ports are pretty straight forward to get seals for but with other motors it can be a minefield.

Steve
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 08:42 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug

anyone ever have any leak before??

LEE


i scored an 1835 engine cheap as years ago
it was leaking BADLY and the owner was worried the block was cracked cos he replaced the cooler seals, main seal everything and it was still leaking chronically

little did he realise there were 2 more seals between the flange and the block :lol:

i replaced those two and it was pretty well leak free after that
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 09:45 AM



Joel

If you can pull the fan housing and gen / alt off without removing the engine and just start the engine n run for a short time you will see where the oil is leaking from but as per above give it a good clean and check for cracks

yeah there are 2 seals on the case to adaptor and 2 seals cooler to adaptor so 4 in total thats if you have the dog house type cooler ??? does it stick out behind the fan ??? you can see it or feel




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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 12:24 PM



fixed it for ya :lol:

Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
Josh

If you can pull the fan housing and gen / alt off without removing the engine and just start the engine n run for a short time you will see where the oil is leaking from but as per above give it a good clean and check for cracks

yeah there are 2 seals on the case to adaptor and 2 seals cooler to adaptor so 4 in total thats if you have the dog house type cooler ??? does it stick out behind the fan ??? you can see it or feel


my younger brother's josh too so i spent my childhood correcting mother
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 02:14 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1303Steve
Hi
1600 twin ports are pretty straight forward to get seals for but with other motors it can be a minefield.

Steve


I think there are only 4 different ones including the straight sided very early type... they were made from soft material too..

the stepped types come in either a hard material...
or a softer type of material and some come with steel washers...
and are different colors too...
so I presume different makers...

LEE



I have lots of spares....




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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 05:17 PM



Sorry Josh

I had someone bugging me

Anyway let us know how u went did u find out if u have dog house cooler ???




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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 07:04 PM



What do you mean stick out, the back of the fan shroud is flat (in oe plane) except for where the fan is.

Dad called boris today and is picking up ball joints, brake line and cooler seals in the morning.

Cheers And ill check for crack, but hey if its cracked guess im upgrading sooner than expected.
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 07:22 PM



54, you've been having too much home brew today!


josh, if its cracked, you'll be saving for a bit!
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 08:19 PM



Yeah ive got a 1600 im gunna get in a couple weeks anyway.

But ive recently found out that my uncles mate did up a few beetles back ages ago and has got some spare parts laying around and he said hell happily give em to me if i let him work on my car and i help him so im preety stoked.
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posted on February 11th, 2010 at 11:38 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
What do you mean stick out, the back of the fan shroud is flat (in oe plane) except for where the fan is.





NO NO

the doghouse oil cooler sits outside the fan housing...
like a doghouse.. lol

the early models up to the >1600 had the oil cooler over number 3 cylinder..

which is why number 3 cylinder used to cook before any other cylinders and why number three cylinder spark plug was retarded by the distributor cap...
so number three cylinder ran cooler.

LEE


non doghouse & doghouse oil cooler shrouds

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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 06:25 AM



Thanks for the pics lee i dont have an dog house oil cooler.

I should be doing this tommoro.

Next question is how do i remove a brake hose?

The front left one has a slight crack in it and needs replacing.
Dad is getting one but i need to remove the old one andput the new one in then bleed the brakes yes?
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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 08:00 AM



Hi

The steel pipe has a 11 mm nut on it, you need to use a special spanner for this otherwise it will round off, you should be able to buy one at a local parts or tool store, it fits all the other steel lines on your car so its a good thing to have in your VW tool box.

The hex on the hose can vary between 15 - 17 mm

There is clip that slips out easily that holds the brake line at each end.

Steve
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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 08:29 AM



Lee thats a type3 engine you have there

A T engine number on the top not under the genny stand which explains why it also has a type3 block off on it too
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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 01:21 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Lee thats a type3 engine you have there

A T engine number on the top not under the genny stand which explains why it also has a type3 block off on it too


No its the original H0 engine... Joel

most 1500 engines had the type 3 dipstick plate...

I have read where ALL 1500 engines were made at the factory to fit into a type 3..????

but its the original H0 engine...

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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 01:23 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
Lee thats a type3 engine you have there

A T engine number on the top not under the genny stand which explains why it also has a type3 block off on it too


No its the original H0 engine... Joel

most 1500 engines had the type 3 dipstick plate...

I have read where ALL 1500 engines were made at the factory to fit into a type 3..????

but its the original H0 engine...

LEE


Looks like a T to me in the pic ???




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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 01:25 PM



I think that number isn't stamped into the case..
I think its raised Joel...??

will have a look in a few weeks when I take the fan shroud off....

never really taken any notice of it...???

cheers

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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 01:31 PM



If that pic is your engine, I think you'll find someone has stamped the og engine # onto the T case so keeping the numbers matching for no blue slip issues. But now there could be 2 engines with the same HO #'s unless in got destroyed when they stole the id. All a bit of a can of worms, but the # on the top is factory, it even has the VW logo.



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posted on February 12th, 2010 at 06:35 PM



yeah matt would be spot on the money

the only 1500 engines that had a type3 filler point were the T0 blocks which were factory type3 engines

no H 1500 bug blocks were ever made with them

aside from all the new universal cases out there the only factory engines that had a type3 filler were actual type3 engines


that sorta thing happens all the time
one of my mates blew his engine and replaced it with one of those new mexi engine which all come with no engine number.
he just stamped his old number on it and we chucked the old one on a bonfire just for shits and giggles

magnisuim fires rock :lol:


saved doing an adjustment of records anyway
theyre a pain, ive had to change my engine number about 5 times now
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posted on February 14th, 2010 at 08:07 PM



Okay, so got the cooler off today abd found out that i got the wrong seals. I need big wide ones hat taper from 8-10 mmm. This sucks as its rego ends on thursday and is getting ball joints done on tuesday which leaves me with tommoro night to get the engine back together. And brakes bled and get the right tyres on it, should be fun

I got the old line out easily and they new one is eay as, now i just gotta get the brakees bled and i need to know if i gotta do the rears as well. Or is it just the fronts.

Once i get the seals i will give the engine a quick run and see but pne of the seals eems to have a big flat spot on the underside of it all the way to the edge so i dunno.

Next question is my horn.

Where does the wire that goes down the steering column come out? Or does it come out.
My horn goes off at random times when ive got it hooked up.
I have got thick amounts of electrical tape where that rubber seal is meant to be as it goes through the bulk head and it still does it.
The boss kit doesnt rub at all from lock to lock.
Ive checked the copper ring near the steering whel and it all seems in good nick. Where else do i check.
And ive got a horn off a commodore and when i just hook it up to another switch it sounds terrible when mounted to the body and ive got rubber betweern it and the body and even when i dont its crap, but when it just hangs it sounds good, how do i fix this?

Cheers For The Help.
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posted on February 14th, 2010 at 08:13 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
Okay, so got the cooler off today and found out that i got the wrong seals. I need big wide ones hat taper from 8-10 mmm.


Cheers For The Help.


Sorry,

I thought You needed the stepped ones....

but wasn't sure what you have ordered...

I have all of them for spares... not expensive...

easiest thing for your horn is a push button

[horn button- heavy duty or use a relay] mounted under the dash... You can buy Hella or Narva ones everywhere..

I have one there for My beetle horn and the other one for air horns... [was supposed to be the other way round..lol]

best of luck

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posted on February 14th, 2010 at 08:39 PM



so has your engine been fitted with an old single port style oil cooler?

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/531055.jpg


geez why would someone do that
its like converting from discs to drums
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posted on February 14th, 2010 at 08:50 PM



Yeah thats the one. Same as the one from the 64. What should it be, and my car is a single port.
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posted on February 14th, 2010 at 08:55 PM



if the block has an AS number then it started out 1600 twin port with doghouse cooler
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posted on February 14th, 2010 at 09:01 PM



It is AS, used to be FI i believe.
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