| [ Total Views: 776 | Total Replies: 9 | Thread Id: 82759 ] |
|
|
 mickey_0789
Casual Dubber
Posts: 47
Threads: 7
Registered: March 25th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Cessnock
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Keen to get bugging
|
| posted on March 25th, 2010 at 05:37 PM |
|
|
Twin Carby to Single Carby
Hey,
Long time reader, first time writer and I just got my first beetle last night!! WOOT!! I bought a 1970 Super Beetle with the 1500 engine.
My first concern is that apparently one of the valve's have gone, I have no idea how the beetle's work and where to start. So how do I change the
valves?
Secondly, the original owner put a twin carby set up on it and apparently by going what the previous owner said, it doesn't run too well with twin
carby. Should I change back to a single, if so how?
Thirdly, the brakes, he told me he just replaced the brakes a few months ago, however when you drive it, it seems the brakes are slightly on, the car
will hardly roll before coming to a stop like someone applied the brakes. Also when pressing down on the brakes its very stiff and they hardly
work.
I would really appreciate it if I could get help from some fellow Beetle lovers,
Cheers!!
|
|
|
colonel mustard
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Posts: 2829
Threads: 51
Registered: February 27th, 2009
Member Is Offline
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Black
|
| posted on March 25th, 2010 at 06:39 PM |
|
|
1. bleed brakes.
2. adjust the drums and handbrake cables.
3. a super beetle should come with a 1600 engine, not a 1500.
4. twin carbs will be fine if they are tuned correctly. they may need a rebuild, or the intake gaskets may be leaking air.
|
|
|
Phil74Camper
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Head in the Clouds
Posts: 2703
Threads: 193
Registered: August 28th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
|
| posted on March 26th, 2010 at 08:04 AM |
|
|
Congratulations on your first VW!
The first thing you need to do, if you intend working on your VW yourself, is go buy a decent VW workshop manual. The Bentley and Haynes manuals are
very good, and the Australian Gregorys/Scientific manuals are also very comprehensive. These are excellent if you already have some mechanical
knowledge but are unfamiliar with VWs. If you are a complete workshop beginner, buy the VW for the Complete Idiot book by John Muir. All of these are
easily found on Ebay - just do a search on VW Workshop Manual.
Superbugs were introduced in Australia in 1971, and came with 1600 twin-port engines, as Cl Mustard has said. If yours is a 1970 1500, then it isn't
a Superbug. Normal Beetles have torsion-bar front suspension, and the spare tyre sits almost upright in its front compartment. Superbugs have a bulgy
nose with Macpherson strut front suspension, and the spare tyre sits completely flat and horizontal.
You can tell if your valves are gone by doing a compression check - the workshop manual will show you how. Fixing the valves involves removing the
engine, and stripping it partially down to remove the heads for repair. You would probably want to install new pistons and cylinders at the same time,
so it's a reasonably big job. Your local VW specialist workshop can do this for you, and service your brakes at the same time. Tell us where you are
and we can recommend a good workshop.
For a first-time VW owner, it's probably easier to have a VW specialist get everything working for you first, then you can drive safely and happily
while you learn all about your Bug. Good luck!
|
|
|
mickey_0789
Casual Dubber
Posts: 47
Threads: 7
Registered: March 25th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Cessnock
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Keen to get bugging
|
| posted on March 26th, 2010 at 10:17 AM |
|
|
Thanks for your help!!
Thanks for telling me about the super bug, as I said before, I have never owned one and was told it was one.
As for the brakes, I can do them at home. As for the engine well maybe it is a good idea to get someone to help me out. Unfortunately though it isn't
registered and I am currently working on the body to get the rust out.
I'm located in Cessnock (hunter valley), a list of nearby VW mechanics would help me A LOT!
|
|
|
Phil74Camper
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Head in the Clouds
Posts: 2703
Threads: 193
Registered: August 28th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
|
| posted on March 26th, 2010 at 01:03 PM |
|
|
Not sure about Cessnock, but Ian's VW workshop is at Unit 3/30 Shipley Dr, Rutherford. Phone him or Rose on 0427 550 203 .
They are also organising the VW run to their workshop, and Morpeth later, on Sunday 2nd May. Try to come along if you are free - you can talk VWs all
day and have a BBQ.
Attach a photo of your pride and joy and we can probably tell you a bit more about it.
|
|
|
mickey_0789
Casual Dubber
Posts: 47
Threads: 7
Registered: March 25th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Cessnock
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Keen to get bugging
|
| posted on March 27th, 2010 at 06:30 PM |
|
|
Rutherford is just 30 minutes away from me so no big problem there.
Do you know what the standards are to get a blue slip?
|
|
|
mickey_0789
Casual Dubber
Posts: 47
Threads: 7
Registered: March 25th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Cessnock
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Keen to get bugging
|
| posted on March 28th, 2010 at 05:55 PM |
|
|
Ok so after having a good look today at my beetle I am very upset
The whole car is going to need a respray... the previous owner sprayed it yellow, however they only did one coat so it's very dull, when I patched it
up the yellow I used was way too bright, took it to a panel shop to get the exact paint match and it's the same yellow I'm using. So know anywhere
cheap I could get it done? Does anyone know the estimate I would be paying? I'm not changing colour so the interior doesn't need to be done and the
windows only need to be masked.
Sunroof... well it leaks I have to contact a sunroof mob and see how much
it's going to cost to replace it.
Look like its going to be a while until I can get her on the road.
|
|
|
grumble
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Posts: 2668
Threads: 53
Registered: June 10th, 2008
Member Is Offline
Location: Taree
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy all the time
|
| posted on March 28th, 2010 at 06:16 PM |
|
|
The brake drag may be something as simple as lack of free travel at the master cylinder pushrod,this will cause the brakes to drag as the fluid can't
return.Seeing Ian is a good move as I think he also does blueslips.Good luck. Cheers Les
|
|
|
mickey_0789
Casual Dubber
Posts: 47
Threads: 7
Registered: March 25th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Cessnock
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Keen to get bugging
|
| posted on March 28th, 2010 at 09:50 PM |
|
|
Just did a quick search and I can get an unregistered vehicle permit for 28 days. Should give me enough time to get the brakes repaired. Got a quote
from a few people about the valves and there all asking for about 1k which is pretty expensive.
|
|
|
mickey_0789
Casual Dubber
Posts: 47
Threads: 7
Registered: March 25th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Cessnock
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Keen to get bugging
|
| posted on April 1st, 2010 at 08:40 PM |
|
|
Just a quick update:
Can anyone tell me how the brakes should feel when you depress the pedal.
The brakes are slowly feeling better (havn't adjusted handbrake yet, still braking when driving), could it possibly be the new pads are wearing
in?
Doing a compression test on tuesday, however it seems the engine seems to be running fine after it warms up. Doesn't seem to be skipping. I'll be
checking that the dizzy is firing properly too while doing the compression test.
Can anyone get me onto anyone who sells good rubber kits? The smaller windows on the front need the rubbers replaced.
Cheers. Sorry for double posting
EDIT:
Just spoke to a few previous beetle owners tonight in person, they got in the car tried the brakes, listened to the engine. Aparently the brakes are
fine, however they are grabbing a little when you drive, and the engine seems fine, it just needs a bit of a tune up.
|
|
|
