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 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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AKA Josh
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| posted on May 16th, 2010 at 02:38 PM |
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Sump Plate
What do i do if only two of he six studs are still in the case or not snapped off.
I can get three nuts on. two nuts and one thread comes out with a nut. Now its not holding oil and leaks too much, what do i do?
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on May 16th, 2010 at 04:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
What do i do if only two of he six studs are still in the case or not snapped off.
I can get three nuts on. two nuts and one thread comes out with a nut. Now its not holding oil and leaks too much, what do i do?
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YIKES
You do have a problem...
You will have to get the broken off studs out some how..
if the threads are damaged...
You can buy stepped studs...
with a thicker thread in the engine and the normal size thru the plate...
buy a few spare studs they are cheap...
and also get a new set of nuts... also cheap..
You also need to get a small spanner to use on those nuts..
long spanners will only cause problems...
they don't have to be that tight...
and always use an oil change kit when changing the oil...
and a small amount of gasket cement on the gaskets...
making sure the sump and plate are oil free...
cheers
LEE
PS: just changing My oil now... Castrol GTX2
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on May 16th, 2010 at 07:45 PM |
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Remove broken studs. Then get a Helicoil kit and repair the threads.
Do an internet search on Helicoil, and get the repair kits from leading car parts or bolts suppliers
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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AKA Josh
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| posted on May 16th, 2010 at 10:45 PM |
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so i need to drop the oil again and remove the studs that are left with helicoils etc and then replace them with stpped threads and loctite on the
case end? and different nuts, not one with a cap,
and they were like that when i got it but it seems that this time the actuall plate wont align properly and wont tighten down fully.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on May 17th, 2010 at 12:10 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
so i need to drop the oil again and remove the studs that are left etc and then replace them with stepped threads and loctite on the case end?
and different nuts, not one with a cap,
and they were like that when i got it but it seems that this time the actual plate wont align properly and wont tighten down fully.
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Hi
I would just remove the broken off studs with whatever You can pull them out with.. Vice grips etc..??
or drill the studs out the broken studs with a drill...
then screw in an easi-out into the hole in the stud..
and unscrew the old stud...
start with a small drill and redrill until You have just about drilled out the stud...
screw in an easi-out and undo the stud...
If the thread is still OK....
You can just use new studs... and loctite them in...
OR
drill the hole to the correct size for the stepped studs..
You would then need to get a tap and tap the new larger threads..
Maybe someone sells these as a kit..??
You would then use new cap nuts... same ones as original..
the stepped studs - half the stud is normal.. half is slightly larger...
these are made just for this situation...
I would have thought that the studs would have stripped the threads rather than broke off...
You can pick up good used or new sump plates just about anywhere...
Your plate may be warped due to excessive force...
the plate should be perfectly flat.. as the cap nuts don't need to be tightened that much..
use an oil change kit... which comes with copper washers and gaskets which should seal perfectly...
I use a kit with each oil change.. no leaks...
best of luck
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Gazza265
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| posted on May 17th, 2010 at 05:35 AM |
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Congrats, sounds like the exact same problem I had..not to worry..it is an easy fix that only takes a little while and some careful use of a thread
tap.
First thing is to contact Matt Berry who is a contributor on thise site and get a set of Stepped Studs, they are cheap including postage.
You will then need to get yourself a matching thread tap and after you have removed the present broken studs and drilled out the holes to the correct
size...you simply tap new threads into the case and loctite the new studs into place.
Lee has hit the broken stud removal on the head fair and square...slow and steady and use bigger and bigger drill bits to remove most of the stud
until there is just the threads remaining. You then place in a 4 or 6 sided easyout into the hole and carefully remove what is left of the stud. I
found the screw in type of easyouts tend to 'enlarge' the remaning stud material by virture of it's screw action. Once removed you can then tap the
new holes being careful to ensure you remove every skerrick of swarf that is left after tapping the new thread. I place axle grease on the upper
surface of the sump and when I had finished tapping the thread I simply wiped the grease away and the swarf that was caught in it. As Matt said to
me.."Clean clean and clean again..
Fixer upperer of daughter's '69 Bug "Oscar"
Cheers
Gazza
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on May 17th, 2010 at 08:24 AM |
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You can borrow my taps if you need to Josh.
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on May 19th, 2010 at 08:18 PM |
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Did you fix the sump plate Josh? Scrutineers (and other drivers) don't like oil leaks!
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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AKA Josh
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| posted on May 19th, 2010 at 08:26 PM |
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hi yeah grag i just let it sit for a day and drove brothers car etc, got home and checked the oil level and it was really igh for sum reason, so i
dropped some oil after cheacking every two sec and now its just below the top line, not leaking, driven to school so far 4 times and no leaks or
nothing. guessing that was overful and leaking out the main oil seal at the trans end and leaking down the fornt of the case and onto the ground from
there. ill get onto the threads in a couple weeks when i redoe the brakes.
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