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Author: Subject:  Ryans MK2 GTI Golf - A/C on the way!
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posted on June 6th, 2010 at 06:45 PM
Ryans MK2 GTI Golf - A/C on the way!


Well its finally happened
I now have my first car:D


Its a tidy little 1992 MK2 Golf GTI imported from Capetown (Africa) with a 2.0 Litre engine.

Its just a arrived home so only managed to get a couple of pics, some from the seller(will take some more tomorrow)

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/GetAttachmentaspx.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/Ge.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/017.jpg

Has a few minor issues which will be fixed

*Heater Core doesn't work (Bypassed)
*A/C doesn't work (hopefully just a seal, not a new compressor)
*Engine temp gauge not working (we believe it may be the sender unit)
*Minor clear coat paint issues
*Minor trim... stuff
*Spedometre is a bit shaky, but I may have to learn to live with it
*Clutch/Brake pedals have a bit of "free" travel

Mechanically the car is superb, engine and gearbox couldnt get much better
Im extremely thankful to Adam for allowing me to buy his beloved MK2. He runs a European car garage down on the Gold coast. Heres his site
http://www.vagarage.com.au/index.ews 

I'm Happy :yes:
Thanks




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posted on June 6th, 2010 at 06:49 PM



My mates son has one of these
It was the red one in VW Australia or something about 10 years ago

For a water cooled car they have a bag of street cred and go ok to boot

GREAT score :tu:




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posted on June 6th, 2010 at 06:56 PM



Very nice :tu:



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posted on June 6th, 2010 at 08:51 PM



Yay, congrats dude! :tu:

Saw this baby at Gold Coast show and spoke to Adam about it. You have my identical twin except yours was born in South Africa. My "GerTIe" is also a 2L, she has an Audi 2 Litre in her and some sports performance parts. She sticks to the road and is an awesome car to drive, you will love driving yours for sure. Congrats!

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posted on June 7th, 2010 at 09:42 AM



yay for import!
The A/c could be very costly, because the car was manufactured before the new R134A (ozone friendly) gas came out and made the old R12 obselete. Conversion starts at nearly $300 upwards depending on condition of bits at an a/c shop. can reach $800 if compressor and seals/high pressure lines are cactus too.

Most efi setups have a/c pressure sensors that do not activate the compressor clutch unless a certain amount of gas is present, so if you hit A/C, it won't exactly operate. I believe its a fail safe measure for the compressor.

This is assuming the previous owner did not do the r12 to r134a gas conversion already. if its done, should be the 'convertor's' shop sticker in the engine bay somewhere, if not, should atleast have new red/blue valve caps along the a/c steel piping. The process involves changing seals and changing the oil in the compressor to make it compatible with the new gas.

If you are handy, you can buy the conversion kit yourself from uk (on ebay). comes with gas, an ester to 'make' the stock oil compatible, new values and pressure tester, for $69 pounds. will take a while to get to you as its gotta be posted via 'ground mail' due to the compressed gases not being all that great up in the low pressure atmosphere (air freight)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400048544826&ss...

Only challenge with the heater core i guess it ripping through the dash and finding a spare.

But regardless, nice car man. i luv the GTi's.




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posted on June 7th, 2010 at 05:25 PM



Thankyou all very much, Im enjoying driving it immensly with all its little kooks, you could say it has a attitude of its own.

Chris,

I'm fear that it will be a very expensive repair:( (gonna estimate $1000 from experience with other family cars)
As to whether its been converted to r12 to r134a gas Im unsure, but there is a sticker in the engine bay for the A/C, dated 2001.
Not sure if it was a conversion or a regas/maintanence but I will go check tomorrow.

There's a few threads over on vwwatercooled of how to replace a heater core, its just a big job and chances are once the dash is pulled MORE little problems will arise.

Gave the MK2 a bath and a quick detail this arvo. Took way to many pics, and Im gonna post them all once the camera battery is finished charging:no:

Ryan




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posted on June 7th, 2010 at 07:28 PM



Looks nice and tidy

Heater core replacement is a bitch of a job.
I've never done a watercooled dub one but nearly all other mainstream cars need the dash removed so it's a pretty involved job.

If the A/C has been worked on in 01 enough that they;ve put a service sticker on then there's a 99.9% chance it's probably been retrofitted

the main reason they lose their charge is people dont run them often enough especially through winter so the shaft seal dries out.
thats why alot of cars now engage the compressor clutch when reverse is selected.

I used to hate retrofitting FWD cars.
the compressor is always buried right down the back of the engine like on mitsubishis or right down the bottom at the front like mazdas where as an EA-ED falcon i had down-pat less than 1 hour :lol:
so much room to work
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posted on June 7th, 2010 at 09:56 PM



The compressor on this Golf is right up the front, under and slightly foward of the alternator. No power steering pump so nothing else to be in the road. Dad always says, when ever a car is made, they start with a heatercore and then build the car around that.

Now heres the swarm of pics

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/001.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/002.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/003.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/004.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/005.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/006.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/007.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/008.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/009.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/010.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/011.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/012.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/Pic_0607_070.jpg

I should thank Amorall, Vuplex, Amway car polish, Lanosol, RainX and a few rags for tidying it up a bit.




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posted on June 7th, 2010 at 10:03 PM



Somthing doesn't seem right.... hmmmmm I wonder what:lol:
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/Pic_0607_072.jpg
Just another thing to fix : )

Now on more of a serious question, hands up who knows what this symbol means and why the light for it is on? I perused through the owner manual and couldnt find anything useful

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/Pic_0607_068.jpg




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posted on June 7th, 2010 at 10:17 PM



I dont "know" per se,

but my guess is its a seatbelt/door/headlight chime - on/off.
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posted on June 8th, 2010 at 08:13 PM



Thanks Colonel, you a few others have confirmed it, apparantly is to to with the immobiliser/alarm

Now does this sticker confirm anything?
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/AVD/DSCF0287.jpg

I dont know if these will help but, heres the (top) of the A/C compressor.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/AVD/DSCF0292.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/AVD/DSCF0295.jpg

I'm really in the dark when it comes to this, but when I get a bit of time I'll take the MK2 to an A/C tech and see what they say.

Thanks




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posted on June 8th, 2010 at 08:50 PM



yup, 134A, its been retrofitted so long as there;s not a leak somewhere, in the condensor is where they often get leaks should be right to get recharged

just make sure to run it for a few mins every few weeks it keepd the shaft seal oilled and stops the gas leaking
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posted on June 8th, 2010 at 09:53 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
so long as there's not a leak somewhere, in the condensor is where they often get leaks should be right to get recharged



Thank-you!
Its a bit of a relief to know the retro fitting has already been done.

According to the previous owner it does indeed have a leak and can only hold a charge for a short period of time.
Hopfully it is the condensor as from a quick glance its probably the only rough part on the car.
Or just a seal in a easy to get location......:rolleyes:

I actually havn't even attempted to run the A/C yet, have simply gone by what the seller said that it doesn't work.
We were told by and A/C tech a while back that a A/C system without gas should NOT be run, so I'm following that suggestion until it gets check out.
I most certainly will run the A/C every now and then once fixed to keep it going, same with the heatercore to stop it blocking up.

I'll stop speculating and have it checked.

Thanks!




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posted on June 13th, 2010 at 02:16 PM



Ahhh the joy of owning cars.

Found a few more problems today, that will require more attention than the others mentioned.
The housing that comes off the side of the engine block that holds the oil filter has an annoying little leak, nothing to major but its just a nuisance.
Found a transmission fluid leak/weep around the axle seals, again nothing major but its somthing that might get replaced when the cars up on the hoist.

On a positive note both side idicators work and have yellow globes now, also changed the blown foglight bulb..... little things:lol:




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posted on June 30th, 2010 at 08:40 PM



A minor update

Have spent the last 4 days replacing all the accessable lights in the dash (eg switches, and climate control panel) with LED's.

First bulb to be replaced was the heater/climate control/fan control panel. Used a 5mm Green LED and a 470 ohm resistor.

Next up was the Foglight, Demister, A/C and actual Light control switches. Had to use Blue LED's as Dicksmiths doesn't have any green 3mm LED's. I will confirm that was the biggest PITA to retrofit the LED's in.

But heres the result

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0356.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0358.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0359.jpg

Pretty happy with the result.


Ordered a heap of parts from German Auto Parts.com
(axle seals, heater core, oil filter flange seal, temp gauge sender unit).
Aswell as a 800 page Bentley manual:dork:

More updates coming




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posted on July 1st, 2010 at 11:51 AM



Good luck with replacing the heater core. Its a real PITA. Had a simlair model when I lived in South Africa. It took 2 of us a whole day to replace it as we practically had to remove the dashboard.
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posted on July 2nd, 2010 at 03:24 PM



Turns out the only problem with my A/C system is a $30 mechanical seal found in the front of my compressor:)
However fitting the seal + labour + regas + a new receiver dryer will total up to around $350.

Will fix the system once the leaky tranny and engine seals are replaced (along with a gearbox oil change)

:tu:




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posted on July 3rd, 2010 at 01:13 PM



this thread kinda makes me miss my old mk2 gti..

wasnt the quickest thing out but man they can take corners like a pro!!!




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posted on July 28th, 2010 at 06:55 PM



Well after a bit of a wait, I now have recieved my first (of hopfully many) parcels from Germanautoparts.com.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0364.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0365.jpg

Pffft, phonebook ain't got nothing on this bad boy of a manual:smilegrin:

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0370.jpg

Parts recieved where a set of axle seals, sender unit for temp guage in cluster/dash, oil filter flange seal, heater core and or course a Bentley Car manual:tu:

Can't wait for the work to begin:dork:




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posted on July 28th, 2010 at 09:40 PM



awesome bed spread :tu:
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posted on July 28th, 2010 at 10:35 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
awesome bed spread :tu:


Im a Ford fan actaully....... but an SS is an ok compromise:cool:




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posted on August 2nd, 2010 at 05:46 PM



Can't hurt to throw a few happy snaps ups
(Dodgy phone cam though)

This was a week ago when I go to work nice and early
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/Pic_0717_075.jpg

This was from this arvo, when I found one of my cars younger siblings:cool:
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/Pic_0802_077.jpg




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posted on August 27th, 2010 at 11:36 AM



Was driving along nicly Monday arvo when I heard a sizzling cracking sound coming from the dash.
Suddenly my radio went off then came back on.

I looked at my cluster and my Tacho, Temperature Gauge and Fuel gauge has all dropped out (car was still driving fine).
Indicator light does not work anymore now and neither does my battery warning light.

So went home ripped the dash apart then thought it to be a good idea to check my alternator, so I tested the voltage at the batt terminals whilst car was running and got 12.1 volts.... oh dear and if I remove a battery lead whilst the car is running it stalls.

As the car sits in the garage at the monent with a highly suspect alternator (removed)
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/DSCF0141.jpg

The culprit!
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/DSCF0144.jpg

and can you spot whats missinghttp://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/DSCF0146.jpg


Aiming to get the alternator rebuilt in the next week or so (really hope its just the alternator).
Whilst it was out I took advantage of the oppurtunity to replace my squealy old vee belts:tu:




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posted on September 1st, 2010 at 08:52 PM



Alternator has been rebuilt and is back in the car.
Luckly the tacho,temp, and fuel gauge issues where only fuse related and now all the electrics (that were working!) are working fine again:)
Not long now until the car gets a major service in regards to various leaking seals.

This car is in for a whooole lot of TLC:rolleyes:

Ryan




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posted on September 1st, 2010 at 09:01 PM



Nice work on the electrics :tu:



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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 05:53 PM



The car got tinted today.... so perfect excuse to take some more photos:smilegrin:

I'm still a bit of an amatuer when it comes to photography

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/061.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/054.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/055.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/056.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/057.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/062.jpg




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posted on September 27th, 2010 at 08:59 PM



"In Volkswagens we trust, Oil Leaks and RUST"

And a MK2 is no exception

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/DSCF0470.jpg

Tidied up with a wire brush
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/DSCF0471.jpg


Hit the rust with a rust converter (from Bunnings :P) and let that dry over night.
Next up I gave it 3 prime coats with kill rust (in a tin), which turned out quite well.
Finally (paint wise), just used a old tin of touch up paint from our old Falcon, (wasn't even sure how close the colour was) gave it 5 light coats and the result was this.
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0473.jpg

Of course I sprayed as much fish oil as possible inside the tunnel to hopefully slow any further rust (god forbid it come back!)

Then just put some "Knead it" to fill the hole and give it a bit of water resistance.
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/VWW/DSCF0475.jpg

This hopfully won't be permanent, just until I can afford to get new metal welded in there properly.




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posted on September 28th, 2010 at 08:54 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by ryana89
"In Volkswagens we trust, Oil Leaks and RUST"

And a MK2 is no exception


Eeeek, my "GerTIe" has no rust, and doesn't leak a drop of oil, she's an awesome car, so much fun to drive up the mountain everyday. Will look into getting her windows tinted also before it heats up some more.




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posted on September 28th, 2010 at 10:46 AM



Quote:
Eeeek, my "GerTIe" has no rust, and doesn't leak a drop of oil, she's an awesome car, so much fun to drive up the mountain everyday. Will look into getting her windows tinted also before it heats up some more.


I found that the reason why rust occured in that area was because there is a little (3 actually) hole at the bottom of the door to let any water that goes inside the door (say from the window) out, so a drainage point.

Unfortunatly this drainage point is directly above where the 2 ends of the door rubber meets, so water got in there and over some time, has reaked havoc on the metal.

MissVdub
Chances are you've been more thorough with your car when checking for rust....... but
If you already havn't, pull your door rubbers off at the bottom and check for rust (I fount small amounts of rust on 2 other doors in the same area).

As for tint, GO for it, its amazing the differance its makes to the car. Go for a tint that has 'metal particles' in it over a darker tint. The tint impregnated with metal has a much higher heat/UV relfection rate than just a "dark" tint.

We gotta keep these MK2's alive and kicking:D




2.0slow 92 MK2

Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia
Memberryana89
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posted on September 29th, 2010 at 08:54 PM



We'll today I did the Upgrade that Ive been planning on doing for a while....upgrading my headlights!!!
As any MK2 owner would know how craap their headlights are. To rectify this, you run power directly from the battery for each headlight with the use of a relay. Basic Diagram below

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/w3lsh_detailing/headlight_loom_diagram.jpg

Now I actaully have decent low beam!!!

Lowbeam/Dip Before and After
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/Lowbeam1.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/Lowbeam2.jpg


And the High beam Before and After (Not as noticable result)
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/HighBeam1.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx176/ryana90/HighBeam2.jpg

Planning of getting some Philips Extreme +80 Globes once I have the $$.

:D




2.0slow 92 MK2

Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia
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